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Erhard Loretan
completed the 14 8000 meter summits in 13 years
(1982/95) at age 36. He is widely considered by
many as the third greatest climber ever, with
the top three (Messner, Kukuczka, and Loretan)
far above any climber today. |
Nanga
Parbat 1982, Gasherbrum I 1983,Gasherbrum II 1983,
Broad Peak 1983, Manaslu 1984, Annapurna I 1985, K2
1985, Dhaulagiri 1985, Everest 1986, Cho Oyu 1990,
Shishapangma 1990, Makalu 1991, Lhotse 1994,
Kangchenjunga 1995. Highlights include Nanga Parbat by
the Diamir side, Manaslu by the north-west ridge,
Traverse of Annapurna with Robert Joss, Everest in 39
hours with Jean Troillet, the first winter ascent of
the east side of Dhaulagiri and more.
The last
time we talked about
Loretan his infant son was dead, in a horrible story.
Erhard is back
climbing currently attempting Jannu North Face with a
3 person team (himself, Ueli Steck Chantal Oudin).
Loretan
on the race to finish the 8000 meter peaks:
"This
'race' is a little outside the objective. I do not
believe that it is a race between climbers rather
it is between the "media". Perhaps I am mistaken. If
people want to play, in my opinion, the climber must
reach the highest point and without oxygen, of course.
In fact, if you have a minimum of ethics, your heart
will say to you if your climbing is clean or not.
Personally, I went twice to Shishapangma because the
first time, in 1990, the route to the main summit was
dangerous."
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