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 Winter Makalu 2000/2001

Krzysztof Wielicki takes on Makalu in the Winter ! Krzysztof will attempt to be the first climber to summit Makalu for a second time. Krzysztof, in style, will attempt this climb in Winter !!!

Updates:

11/28/2000 - A View from a Bar

11/29/2000 - Meeting Miss Elizabeth Hawley

12/06/2000 - Across the Alps

12/07/2000 - Up the Mountain with a Goat

12/09/2000  - Rocks in the Tent

12/12/2000  - Change of Route

12/15/2000 - Landing Ground for the Moto-hang Glide

12/19/2000 - White Stains on the Map

12/23/2000 - Sleeping Bags Abducted to China

12/27/2000 - A gold foil table cloth 

12/29/2000 - Weary tramp and 12/31/2000 - A direct e-mail from MONIKA ROGOZINSKA

1/2/2001    - A Wise Dog

1/4/2001    - Everybody goes up

1/9/2001    - Mountain roaring with hurricane

1/10/2001   - The weather is still bad

1/11/2001   - The Last Attempt

1/15/2001   - This is the end 

1/25/2001   - The Wind defeated us

 

Background of Expedition

 

NEWSFLASH 1/17/2001 11:48 AM EST US: I don't have any good news. They gave up. Wielicki, the chief, announced the finish of the expedition. Reason: the weather mainly winds (completely destroyed camp II, the tents - one US made "The North Face" and one from Russia - were too weak). They will return by helicopter Jan 15. It means that Makalu won with climbers for third time in the winter (Messner 85/86, Wielicki 90 and now). 

Regards , Marek Kopyt Rzeczpospolita On Line

http://www.rp.pl  ("Rzeczpospolita") 

 

NEWSFLASH 1/11/2001 8:35 AM EST US: Now they have a hard time. Wielicki and Zaluski came back to the main base camp (8 hours trip from camp II down to base, but 3 days from base up to camp II). Tortladze and Liszewski are at camp II, Wielicki and Zaluski will go there in two days. These two person crews will try climb to the top. They have time to Jan. 15 - 17. (there will be a helicopter which take all them back). So we are waiting... The weather is miserable, winds are very strong (camp I has been completely destroyed), and they are short of food and fuel. 

Regards , Marek Kopyt Rzeczpospolita On Line

http://www.rp.pl  ("Rzeczpospolita") 

NEWSFLASH 1/9/2000: Wielicki, Zaluski and Zurawski spent last night (7/8) at camp II (now 6900 m). The camp has moved (higher) near Makalu La (7400) - the starting point for the last attack. They will make a final summit attack this week. Regards, Marek Kopyt  Rzeczpospolita On Line

written by Monika Rogozinska, "Rzeczpospolita",
transl. by "TRANSLATOR" Technical Translation Agency

http://www.rp.pl  ("Rzeczpospolita") and
http://www.translator-warsaw.com.pl ("TRANSLATOR")

Pictures from Makalu and a picture of the first Route.

Krzysztof Wielicki's record places him in a very elite groups of climbers. Some details from Monika: Wielicki was completely alone during his solo ascent on Nanga Parbat. Only Pakistani highlanders and shepherds were the witnesses. (He went alone to Diamir Valley of Nanga Parbat after the successful ascent on K2. He decided to finish The Crown of Himalaya. Nanga Parbat was his last, 14th 8000 m peak.) On Dhaulagiri he was also alone on the route, although he was the member of an expedition which worked on other route and even other side of the mountain. The same situation was on Shisha Pangma. On Broad Peak and Lhotse he was also the member of an expedition but he went solo to the top. (Lhotse was in winter so there was only one expedition on Khumbu Glacier led by Andrzej Zawada.) Check the 8000 meter peak page below and his page for more details. Krzysztof Wielicki is a great climber in the purest sense.

Update One: The expedition's plan was to reach Makalu Base Camp on December 3-4th, so the hope is they are there. Communication and news is expected shortly.

There is background information on www.makalu.onet.pl. However, there will be no English reports on the www.makalu.onet.pl site. We hope to receive short english versions of expedition's reports from www.makalu.onet.pl and reports from Base camp from Monika Rogozinska on this important expedition.

Update Two: Just the beginning ! The Polish has told us. "Krzysztof will try to reach K2 in winter 2001/2002 -  Makalu is a first part of Polish Program Explorations all 14 8000 Meter Peaks Summits."

Update Three: The expedition has arrived at base camp at 49000 meters. They had some problems with porters, but everything is OK now. Piotr Trybalski

Update Four: They have ABC set up and are proceeding to attack the mountain. More on www.makalu.onet.pl .

Update Five: There is a change of plans. They will try to reach the summit not along western pillar but the 4 km long SE edge. There is little or no snow in the Makalu region - the season is very dry - the snowline is very high. A few days ago they put in the first camp and now they have to move all equipment back. Wielicki said, "I try to increase ours chance." best regards, Piotr Trybalski www.makalu.onet.pl

Update Six: Polish climbers had to return from camp II to base camp. There were very strong winds. A part of team's tents have been destroyed. 

They have also had some problems with health, but everything's OK. They will try to reach II camp on 25th Dec. best regards, Piotr Trybalski www.makalu.onet.pl

The Quest for all 14 8000 Meter Peaks Summits (The True Highest Summit!)

Seven Summits Facts

Krzysztof Wielicki's record places him in a very elite groups of climbers. Some details from Monika: Wielicki was completely alone during his solo ascent on Nanga Parbat. Only Pakistani highlanders and shepherds were the witnesses. (He went alone to Diamir Valley of Nanga Parbat after the successful ascent on K2. He decided to finish The Crown of Himalaya. Nanga Parbat was his last, 14th 8000 m peak.) On Dhaulagiri he was also alone on the route, although he was the member of an expedition which worked on other route and even other side of the mountain. The same situation was on Shisha Pangma. On Broad Peak and Lhotse he was also the member of an expedition but he went solo to the top. (Lhotse was in winter so there was only one expedition on Khumbu Glacier led by Andrzej Zawada.) Check the 8000 meter peak page below and his page for more details. Krzysztof Wielicki is a great climber in the purest sense.

The Quest for all 14 8000 Meter Peaks Summits (The True Highest Summit!)

Seven Summits Facts

Makalu 2000

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