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Updates:
11/28/2000
- A View from a Bar
11/29/2000
- Meeting Miss Elizabeth Hawley
12/06/2000
- Across the Alps
12/07/2000
- Up the Mountain with a Goat
12/09/2000
- Rocks in the Tent
12/12/2000
- Change of Route
12/15/2000
- Landing Ground for the
Moto-hang Glide
12/19/2000
- White Stains on the Map
12/23/2000
- Sleeping Bags Abducted to
China
12/27/2000
-
A gold foil table cloth
12/29/2000
- Weary
tramp and 12/31/2000 - A direct e-mail from MONIKA
ROGOZINSKA
1/2/2001
- A
Wise Dog
1/4/2001
- Everybody
goes up
1/9/2001
- Mountain
roaring with hurricane
1/10/2001
- The
weather is still bad
1/11/2001
- The
Last Attempt 1/15/2001
- This
is the end
1/25/2001
- The Wind defeated us
Background
of Expedition
NEWSFLASH
1/17/2001 11:48 AM EST US:
I don't have any good news. They gave up. Wielicki,
the chief, announced the finish of the expedition.
Reason: the weather mainly winds (completely destroyed
camp II, the tents - one US made "The North
Face" and one from Russia - were too weak). They
will return by helicopter Jan 15. It means that Makalu
won with climbers for third time in the winter
(Messner 85/86, Wielicki 90 and now).
Regards
, Marek Kopyt Rzeczpospolita On Line
http://www.rp.pl
("Rzeczpospolita")
NEWSFLASH
1/11/2001 8:35 AM EST US:
Now
they have a hard time. Wielicki and Zaluski came back
to the main base camp (8 hours trip from camp II down
to base, but 3 days from base up to camp II).
Tortladze and Liszewski are at camp II, Wielicki
and Zaluski will go there in two days. These two
person crews will try climb to the top. They have time
to Jan. 15 - 17. (there will be a helicopter which
take all them back). So we are waiting... The weather is
miserable, winds are very strong (camp I has been completely
destroyed), and they are short of food and fuel.
Regards
, Marek Kopyt Rzeczpospolita On Line
http://www.rp.pl
("Rzeczpospolita")
NEWSFLASH
1/9/2000:
Wielicki,
Zaluski and Zurawski spent last night (7/8) at camp II
(now 6900 m). The camp has moved (higher) near Makalu
La (7400) - the starting point for the last attack. They will
make a final summit attack this week. Regards, Marek
Kopyt Rzeczpospolita On Line
written
by Monika Rogozinska, "Rzeczpospolita",
transl. by "TRANSLATOR" Technical
Translation Agency
http://www.rp.pl
("Rzeczpospolita") and
http://www.translator-warsaw.com.pl
("TRANSLATOR")
Pictures
from Makalu and a picture of the
first Route.
Krzysztof
Wielicki's record places him in a very elite
groups of climbers. Some details from Monika: Wielicki
was completely alone during his solo ascent on Nanga
Parbat. Only Pakistani highlanders and shepherds were
the witnesses. (He went alone to Diamir Valley of
Nanga Parbat after the successful ascent on K2. He
decided to finish The Crown of Himalaya. Nanga Parbat
was his last, 14th 8000 m peak.) On Dhaulagiri he was
also alone on the route, although he was the member of
an expedition which worked on other route and even
other side of the mountain. The same situation was on
Shisha Pangma. On Broad Peak and Lhotse he was also
the member of an expedition but he went solo to the
top. (Lhotse was in winter so there was only one
expedition on Khumbu Glacier led by Andrzej Zawada.)
Check the 8000 meter peak page below and his
page for more details. Krzysztof
Wielicki
is a great climber in the purest sense.
Update
One:
The expedition's plan was to reach Makalu Base Camp on
December 3-4th, so the hope is they are there.
Communication and news is expected shortly.
There
is background information on www.makalu.onet.pl.
However, there
will be no English reports on the www.makalu.onet.pl
site. We hope to receive short english versions of expedition's
reports from www.makalu.onet.pl
and reports from Base camp from Monika
Rogozinska on this important expedition.
Update
Two:
Just the beginning ! The Polish has told us. "Krzysztof
will try to reach K2 in winter 2001/2002 -
Makalu is a first part of Polish Program Explorations
all 14 8000 Meter Peaks Summits."
Update
Three:
The expedition has arrived at base camp at 49000
meters. They had some problems with porters, but
everything is OK now. Piotr Trybalski
Update
Four: They
have ABC set up and are proceeding to attack the
mountain. More on www.makalu.onet.pl
.
Update
Five: There
is a change of plans. They will try to reach the
summit not along western pillar but the 4 km long SE edge.
There is little or no snow in the Makalu region - the season is
very dry - the snowline is very high. A few days ago
they put in the first camp and now they have to move
all equipment back. Wielicki said, "I try to
increase ours chance." best regards, Piotr
Trybalski www.makalu.onet.pl
Update
Six:
Polish climbers had to return from camp II to base
camp. There were very strong winds. A part of team's
tents have been destroyed.
They have also had some problems with health, but
everything's OK. They will try to reach II camp on
25th Dec. best regards, Piotr Trybalski www.makalu.onet.pl
The
Quest for all 14 8000 Meter Peaks Summits (The
True Highest Summit!)
Seven
Summits Facts
Krzysztof
Wielicki's record places him in a very elite
groups of climbers. Some details from Monika: Wielicki
was completely alone during his solo ascent on Nanga
Parbat. Only Pakistani highlanders and shepherds were
the witnesses. (He went alone to Diamir Valley of
Nanga Parbat after the successful ascent on K2. He
decided to finish The Crown of Himalaya. Nanga Parbat
was his last, 14th 8000 m peak.) On Dhaulagiri he was
also alone on the route, although he was the member of
an expedition which worked on other route and even
other side of the mountain. The same situation was on
Shisha Pangma. On Broad Peak and Lhotse he was also
the member of an expedition but he went solo to the
top. (Lhotse was in winter so there was only one
expedition on Khumbu Glacier led by Andrzej Zawada.)
Check the 8000 meter peak page below and his
page for more details. Krzysztof
Wielicki
is a great climber in the purest sense.
The
Quest for all 14 8000 Meter Peaks Summits (The
True Highest Summit!)
Seven
Summits Facts
Makalu
2000
The
Mountaineering
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