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  Everest 2005: Mallory and Irvine The Final Chapter: Q&A Autumn 2005 Part 4

Q&A Autumn 2005 Part 4


Q. EverestNews.com reader: So what about this short cut?

A. EverestNews.com: The theory that they did a "short cut" down the mountain has been promoted over and over by those who has not been above 8000 meters on Everest.

Our men climbed up the various "short cuts". The men who has actually been on the mountain and have climbed up these "short cuts" believe it is "IMPOSSIBLE" to climb down in that area. As far as we know, our various climbers are the only climbers who have been on the steep areas. The video shows near vertical areas in some places, very dangerous climbing.

Q. EverestNews.com reader: Hi, recently in the UK the clothes that Mallory wore were recreated as the original garment makers are all still in business. Result was that M&I were very well clothed to climb Everest. 

I take it as read that the fibers you found at the possible Irvine location could be analyzed and compared ? Maybe an obvious question but one needs to be asked.

A. EverestNews.com: While it is possible, that our fibers came from George, it is much more probable that the fibers came from Sandy based on the location found...

We did quite a bit of work on the fibers and rope evidence found. However, what we really needed was fibers from Sandy's clothes to compare. We asked the various sources for pieces of rope to compare, and offered to have a third party compare the pieces. But no one wanted to cooperate.... As far as Sandy's clothes, the Irvine family did not have anything to compare....

While the results perhaps could have sold some newspapers in the UK, does it really matter? No. Meaning the Chinese clearly found both George and Sandy. It is in our opinion it is a known fact that Sandy died below the Second Step, therefore how does any of this add to if they summited?

We have moved on to evidence above the Second Step on Everest...

Q. EverestNews.com reader: OK, you have done a wonderful job in presenting this mystery.  Keep up the good work.  When will you publish more photo's taken from the 2005 expedition?  Will they show the true ridge route?

Q. Similar Question: Will high resolution photos be published?

A. EverestNews.com: We don't own the photos from 2005, so it is up to the climbers on what they want to publish. Climbers in most cases no longer publish high resolution photos on the net in part because unethical people steal them and claim "free use" or "research".

Q. EverestNews.com reader: I have just read your story about Mallory and Irvine. I do research myself. Your case is very well argued and, though I am unable to examine the artifacts found myself, I tend to believe that Mallory made it to the top. Even Reinhold Messner in his book on climbing the Everest alone, following M&I's route, believes that had M made it above the second step, he had made the summit too.

I agree with your position: It is not proven that either one of M or I made it to the summit, but it is also not proven that they didn't. Your theory presents a strong case which rejects the position that they did not make it.

A. EverestNews.com: While Messner clearly states in his book that Tibetan sources told him, artifacts were found above the Second Step, it is our understanding Messner has always held the position they did not summit. Messner, of course did not go up the normal route, but summited via the couloir.

We would love to chat with Messner in detail one day...

Q. EverestNews.com reader: Having just read your fantastic theory from 12 or so months ago about the Everest summit of George Mallory I was wondering if you could answer a query I have.   Do you think it possible that Irvines body may never be found having tumbled down the mountain due to avalanche or rock fall or is still in the location where the Chinese reported the 'Old dead'  many years ago? I appreciate that even if Irvine's body is eventually found there may not be any evidence of either of them summiting as I believe your account to be really concievable and very probable. I'm on my 4th book about M&I and have been absolutely hooked for about 2 years now fully believing that Mallory reached the top because of summit fever and his amazing spirit. I look forward to maybe hearing from you soon about the above query and any other information you could pass on to me about the subject. Yours hopefully...

A. EverestNews.com: It is very hard to say if people will continue to search for Mallory and Irvine. Funding will be very hard.

Will someone decide to pick up some of these body parts and bring them home, like has been done with M. Wilson? We sure hope not and would support actions against climbers doing so without the families consent. The family have made their wishes well known. What would Sandy body prove?? That he died below the Second Step? While some will continue forever in denial, again we believe that is a known fact.

Q. EverestNews.com reader: Why should be we believe the Chinese found Mallory before Simo?

A. EverestNews.com: Maybe because they reported the finding in various places which were published before Mallory was rediscovered? And reported finding George at 8100 meters. The Chinese refer to these bodies as George Mallory and Sandy Irvine.

Q. EverestNews.com reader: Do you speak with and share information with Simo?

A. EverestNews.com: We speak with Simo regularly and have shared many thoughts and findings with Eric and his wife, Erin. We have made recommendation if he goes at it again. During May, we spoke 2-3 times per day, some days more.

We have another 143 questions in the Q&A box! Many are repeats of the past Q&A, we encourage you to read the old Q&A's.

In a few days we plan, with his Ok, to share another readers thoughts. We have much respect his thoughts and think you might find them interesting.

 Location marked on our map by Xu ©EverestNews.com

We returned to Mount Everest in search of an answer.


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