history of Everest is replete with eccentric, daring and enterprising
characters. Among them is Captain John Baptist Lucius Noel who joined the 1924
Third British expedition to Everest as a Photographer and Filmmaker.
Noel’s career began, as did
that of many Everest climbers of that era, in the army. During World War I
Noel was captured by the Germans and held as a POW until he escaped. His
interest in Everest became apparent when he snuck across the border into Tibet
in disguise and became the first European to come within 40 miles of the mountain. His
illegal foray brought back much needed information that would lead to an
official and much larger Everest Reconnaissance expedition in 1921.
In what must have been an
enormous and unusual sum at the time, it is said, Noel purchased the
photographic rights for the 1924 expedition for £8000. This sum is all the
more remarkable given that Noel resigned from the army and forfeited his
pension to join the expedition. Noel’s still photos were taken on glass slides
that he carefully carried up the slopes of Everest along with his other
equipment. They were developed at Base Camp
in a specially darkened tent. He filmed the expedition with a
40-pound camera that he hauled as high as the
North Col (23,000 feet). Perhaps his
best-known photo is that of climbers high on the mountain spreading blankets
in the snow to signal to the team below that Mallory & Irvine had failed to
return from their summit assault.
A book of his photographs
“Everest Pioneer: the Photographs of Captain John Noel” was published by his
daughter Sandra Noel in 2003. The book is not yet available in America. His
filmed footage with music by expedition member Somervell survives to this day.
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