In their last report, they said
they've gone up to C2 but they returned to BC because of bad weather above
7,000 m. in G1. Three or four climbers have made it to the summit of G2, with
bad weather, and one of them suffered frostbite in his fingers. There are new
expeditions in G2, even though all the other expeditions had quit because of
bad weather. In G1 there were only 15 tents left from the initial 40, and
some of them are preparing to leave too. There are no other news since then,
but they were still waiting for a good weather window.
Andalucian climbers will attempt this summer to climb two
eight-thousands consecutively in the Karakorum
'KARAKORUM 8,000 ANDALUCIA 2005 EXPEDITION', WHICH WILL TAKE PLACE BETWEEN
JUNE 18 AND AUGUST 21, IS SPONSORED BY CONSEJERÍA DE TURISMO, COMERCIO Y
DEPORTE DE LA JUNTA DE ANDALUCÍA
Andalucian climbers will try to ascend two eight-thousands
consecutively for the first time for an expedition of our community.
of the 'Karakorum 8,000 Andalucia 2005 Expedition' will climb in the first two
weeks of August the Gasherbrum I (G1), 8,068 meters, and Gasherbrum II (G2) or
Hidden Peak, 8,035 meters in the Karakorum sierra, to the northeast of the
official presentation of this project, the General Director of Sports
Activities and Promotions, Juan de la Cruz Vázquez, remarked the importance of
this project for Andalucian mountain climbing and wished the best luck to the
members of the expedition. Then, the president of the Andalucian Mountain
Climbing Federation, José Durán, thanked the continuous support of the Junta
to this sport, which is "reaching a very important level with highest
challenges each time" in Andalucia.
of the expedition, Manuel González, who explained the details of the project,
said that the group "has enough experience" to crown with success both summits
and remarked the names of Jorge Vázquez, physician of the expedition, and
Manuel Salazar, who was very close last year to reach the summit of K2.
at 5,300 meters
sportsmen, who plan to establish base camp at 5,300 meters of altitude around
July 2, plan to climb G1 first because of its technical appeal. According to
González, "the approach to the mountain consists in two days of trip by the
Karakorum highway and one more day over a road for all-terrain vehicles, to
then march by foot for seven days, along with carriers over the glacier of
Baltoro to the zone known as Concorde".
challenge -adds the San Pedroan climber- will be G1, which is the fundamental
objective of the project, because it will be the activity with more difficulty
and relevance. The route will be by the Japanese corridor and with high
altitude camps at 6,000, 6,600 and 7,100 meters. G2 will be approached by the
classic route, the Austrian of 1956, probably with high altitude camps at
6,500 and 7,000 meters, and since we will have good acclimatization we won't
use the planned camp 3".
who hopes the weather in the Karakorum won't be an obstacle, said that
depending on the wear made by the ascent of the Gasherbrum I, they will opt
for the second climb by the route of the French Spur, which has not been done
by any Spaniard climber.
project, which will take place between June 18 and August 21, with a budget of
10,000 euros, is sponsored by Consejería de Turismo, Comercio y Deporte and is
organized by the Andalucian Mountain Climbing Federation, with the
collaboration of the Ama Dablam Alpine Club, the San Pedro Alcántara Club;
Montañero Sierra del Pilar, from Jerez de la Frontera; Trepariscos and
Mulhacén, both from Granada.
from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
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