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  Andalucian G1 and G2 2005 Update


Update: In their last report, they said they've gone up to C2 but they returned to BC because of bad weather above 7,000 m. in G1. Three or four climbers have made it to the summit of G2, with bad weather, and one of them suffered frostbite in his fingers.  There are new expeditions in G2, even though all the other expeditions had quit because of bad weather.  In G1 there were only 15 tents left from the initial 40, and some of them are preparing to leave too.  There are no other news since then, but they were still waiting for a good weather window.  

 

Background: Seven Andalucian climbers will attempt this summer to climb two

eight-thousands consecutively in the Karakorum

 

THE 'KARAKORUM 8,000 ANDALUCIA 2005 EXPEDITION', WHICH WILL TAKE PLACE BETWEEN JUNE 18 AND AUGUST 21, IS SPONSORED BY CONSEJERÍA DE TURISMO, COMERCIO Y DEPORTE DE LA JUNTA DE ANDALUCÍA

 

Seven Andalucian climbers will try to ascend two eight-thousands

consecutively for the first time for an expedition of our community. 

 

The members of the 'Karakorum 8,000 Andalucia 2005 Expedition' will climb in the first two weeks of August the Gasherbrum I (G1), 8,068 meters, and Gasherbrum II (G2) or Hidden Peak, 8,035 meters in the Karakorum sierra, to the northeast of the Himalayas.

 

In the official presentation of this project, the General Director of Sports Activities and Promotions, Juan de la Cruz Vázquez, remarked the importance of this project for Andalucian mountain climbing and wished the best luck to the members of the expedition.  Then, the president of the Andalucian Mountain Climbing Federation, José Durán, thanked the continuous support of the Junta to this sport, which is "reaching a very important level with highest challenges each time" in Andalucia.

 

The chief of the expedition, Manuel González, who explained the details of the project, said that the group "has enough experience" to crown with success both summits and remarked the names of Jorge Vázquez, physician of the expedition, and Manuel Salazar, who was very close last year to reach the summit of K2.

 

Base Camp at 5,300 meters

 

The sportsmen, who plan to establish base camp at 5,300 meters of altitude around July 2, plan to climb G1 first because of its technical appeal. According to González, "the approach to the mountain consists in two days of trip by the Karakorum highway and one more day over a road for all-terrain vehicles, to then march by foot for seven days, along with carriers over the glacier of Baltoro to the zone known as Concorde".

 

"The first challenge -adds the San Pedroan climber- will be G1, which is the fundamental objective of the project, because it will be the activity with more difficulty and relevance.  The route will be by the Japanese corridor and with high altitude camps at 6,000, 6,600 and 7,100 meters.  G2 will be approached by the classic route, the Austrian of 1956, probably with high altitude camps at 6,500 and 7,000 meters, and since we will have good acclimatization we won't use the planned camp 3".

 

González, who hopes the weather in the Karakorum won't be an obstacle, said that depending on the wear made by the ascent of the Gasherbrum I, they will opt for the second climb by the route of the French Spur, which has not been done by any Spaniard climber.

 

This project, which will take place between June 18 and August 21, with a budget of 10,000 euros, is sponsored by Consejería de Turismo, Comercio y Deporte and is organized by the Andalucian Mountain Climbing Federation, with the collaboration of the Ama Dablam Alpine Club, the San Pedro Alcántara Club; Montañero Sierra del Pilar, from Jerez de la Frontera; Trepariscos and Mulhacén, both from Granada.

 

Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera

Updates

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