Update June 27, 2005:
Karakorum Expedition: Camp 1 and moving up!
arrived in Base Camp on June 20th and was immediately welcomed by an avalanche
from G1 massif. BC is on a safe place, though, with superb views of G1 and G2.
two other teams: British and Korean in BC already, however, no-one had made it
through the icefall of South Gasherbrum Glacier yet, though both teams had
team started to make their way through the icefall on June 22nd in cooperation
with Korean team. They did not reach C 1 and stopped for the night at about
5500m. “The heat was awesome; we spent the day in underwear with snow stuffed
into our hats!” After spending the day on a “frying pan” they decided to
retreat to BC on June 23rd, to celebrate the Midsummer’s Eve properly.
continued to push through the icefall on June 26 and after 7 hours of hard
climbing they reached C 1, along with the British and Italian team. The group
leader Saulius was the only one who felt strong enough to assist Italian team
with fixing the ropes further up to C 2.
On June 27
three members of the group installed more ropes, up to the altitude of ca
6300m. They will decide tonight whether they will continue pushing to C 2
tomorrow or will retreat to BC.
at home, worrying about heavy snow conditions and avalanche alerts the team
would like to say: “don’t worry, there is indeed lots of snow here, but it is
not anything too dramatic. It is normal, regular mountaineering in slightly
snowier conditions, but we are from north and thus used to snow, we love it;
it is the heat that is killing us here, not the snow.”
expedition members arriving to Islamabad at June 5. There are some changes in
the team. Previously Latvians and now some Lithuanians couldn't find the money
and are not going to Pakistan but the rest of the team decided to continue.
number of the members – 5.:
Vilius - the leader (Lithuania), Darius Paulauskas
(Lithuania), Alar Sikk (Estonia), Tarmo Riga (Estonia) and doctor
Melnik (Estonia). Last week team had a meeting in Tallinn (except Darius
Paulauskas who at the moment is working in Paris) and discussed last details
of expedition. Now they will meet only in Islamabad, because Saulius Vilius is
leaving from Vilnius, Estonians from Tallinn and Darius Paulauskas from Paris.
Background: This summer alpinists from
Lithuania and Estonia together will go for Gasherbrum II. Climbers from these
countries are planning common expedition in the Karakorum Range for the first
time since the re-establishment of the independence.
Team is arriving to Islamabad
5 June. The expedition is led by Everest summiteers Saulius Vilius from
Lithuania. He also organized Lithuanian expedition to Shishapangma last year.
The other members are: Eugenijus Simanauskas (Lithuania), Ramunas Alisauskas
(Lithuania), Arturas Bazys (Lithuania), Darius Milasius (Lithuania), Alar Sikk
(Estonia), Tarmo Riga (Estonia), Dr. Priit Melnik (Estonia).
Team is planning to climb to
G2 by classical route.
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