
Update:
First
Baltic Karakorum Expedition: if only we had 2 more weeks!
Despite
numerous setbacks it took an avalanche to force us down from the mountain.
First the group leaders back bag fell down below C3 and we lost some valuable
equipment and all the means for communication. Then Alar fell three times
(twice on a steep slope and once into a crevasse) and ended up with a swollen
knee and pensive attitude “I have a feeling that she does not really want to
get along with me this time, so why push my luck”, said the Everest summiteer
looking at the beauty of G2 and lit another cigarette. Three tenacious members
of the team planned to get back up on Saturday, July 16, but Saulius, who had
suffered from high altitude cough for a while felt worse while sipping his
morning tea at 2 am and after examining him Dr. Melnik strictly prohibited
Saulius from going further up. Accompanied with cook’s assistant Mustafa he
was sent down to Baltoro to recover. So the team was down to two members still
willing to climb, “we could really have a use for some Latvians now” sighed
the lonely team mates and decided that it was too dangerous for them to tackle
the icefall alone (having Alar hanging in the crevasse for a half an hour had
been a good lesson for them).
Tarmo and
Darius joined with the Korean team on July 17 and went to C1 and also further
up to C2. “We stood right behind Gerlinde when we heard a cracking noise and
saw a huge avalanche next to us”. We retreated to BC today, will pack tomorrow
and leave the BC on July 22. What a pity we don’t have another two weeks to
wait for the snow to settle!”
Gerlinde
retreated to C1, “she is an amazing woman, if anyone deserves the summit, it
is definitely her”, say both guys in complete awe of feminine strength.
Korean
team moved up and planned to set not only C3, but also C4 before the summit
bid. “The weather may have beaten us this time, but we’ll be back and next
time we’ll drag Latvians with us too!”
Updates
Background: The
expedition members arriving to Islamabad at June 5. There are some changes in
the team. Previously Latvians and now some Lithuanians couldn't find the money
and are not going to Pakistan but the rest of the team decided to continue.
The final
number of the members – 5.:
Saulius
Vilius - the leader (Lithuania), Darius Paulauskas
(Lithuania), Alar Sikk (Estonia), Tarmo Riga (Estonia) and doctor
Priit
Melnik (Estonia). Last week team had a meeting in Tallinn (except Darius
Paulauskas who at the moment is working in Paris) and discussed last details
of expedition. Now they will meet only in Islamabad, because Saulius Vilius is
leaving from Vilnius, Estonians from Tallinn and Darius Paulauskas from Paris.
Background: This summer alpinists from
Lithuania and Estonia together will go for Gasherbrum II. Climbers from these
countries are planning common expedition in the Karakorum Range for the first
time since the re-establishment of the independence.
Team is arriving to Islamabad
5 June. The expedition is led by Everest summiteers Saulius Vilius from
Lithuania. He also organized Lithuanian expedition to Shishapangma last year.
The other members are: Eugenijus Simanauskas (Lithuania), Ramunas Alisauskas
(Lithuania), Arturas Bazys (Lithuania), Darius Milasius (Lithuania), Alar Sikk
(Estonia), Tarmo Riga (Estonia), Dr. Priit Melnik (Estonia).
Team is planning to climb to
G2 by classical route.
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Millet One
Sport Everest Boot for Spring 2010 has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
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-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
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Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here. |
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A cold
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
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See more here. |
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