Marty Schmidt: K2 Broad Peak, G1 and G2 all in 2005

Marty Schmidt, who summited Cho Oyu twice and Kangchenjunga, will attempt G1,G2, Broad Peak and K2 all in the summer of 2005.  The single father of two with dual American and New Zealand citizenships, will leave for Pakistan in May to take on Gasherbrum II and then ski from the summit and head for Gash I, Hidden Peak.  He will then climb Broad Peak, ascend on skis and then finish with K2 from the south side.

Schmidt has been working to secure sponsorships before he attempts K2 from the North ridge.  He has been approaching many schools to show young people what it takes to attempt this difficult summit and he has been trying to let New Zealanders know what K2’s North ridge is all about.

In June of 2006, Schmidt will be leading a 10-member expedition team from Pakistan heading to K2 and will be climbing the original route of the North Ridge to the Eagles Nest at 8000 meters.  Goals for the team include:  finishing the last 600 meters of the North Ridge; summiting a New Zealander; summiting a Kiwi woman; guiding one client to the summit and starting a commercial operation that will last for many more years; climbing without use of bottled oxygen; making a major motion picture film out of the expedition; and leading a 35-day trek into Chinese Base Camp.

Schmidt, a self-proclaimed accomplished organizer for logistics, people and gear of expeditions, has been involved in international mountain and ski guiding for 28 years, six of these years in the United States Air Force’s elite team of “Pararescue Men”.  Among many things, his accomplishments include guiding a 71 year old client to the summit of Denali in 1988 (the oldest person to have summited Denali to date); becoming the first American and second New Zealander to summit the southwest face on Kangchenjunga; setting the world speed record (at the time) on Cho Oyu on September 28, 2001 in 10 hours, 45 minutes from ABC to summit; and on September 24, 2004 on Cho Oyu, Tibet, summiting a client with no O2 and no Sherpa support, helping to rescue a man who was having a hard time at the 7000 meter mark, ascending Cho Oyu using no fixed lines, no O2, no support, carrying all his own ski gear, and then skiing from the summit to the end of the snow—becoming one of only a few who have skied from the summit of an 8,000 meter mountain.

In addition to all his accomplishments and goals to date, Schmidt has even bigger plans for his future beyond years 2005 & 2006.  He plans on guiding K2, Kangchenjunga, Everest and Cho Oyu for the next 30 years and aims to climb K2 when he is 70, Kangchenjunga when he is 75 and Everest when he is 80 years old. Of course, this is still early in life for a man who plans to live until he is 120!

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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