Home
   Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
  
Banners Ads
   Bookstore
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace
  
Contact

   Downloads
  
Educational
  
Expeditions
  
Facts
  
Games
  
Gear
  
History
  
Interviews

   Mailing List
   Media

   Medical
  
News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Search
   Seven Summits
   Snowboard
   Speakers
   Students
   Readers Guide
   Risks

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement

   Volunteer/help

 

    
  

 

  




  Marty Schmidt: K2 Broad Peak, G1 and G2 all in 2005


Marty Schmidt, who summited Cho Oyu twice and Kangchenjunga, will attempt G1,G2, Broad Peak and K2 all in the summer of 2005.  The single father of two with dual American and New Zealand citizenships, will leave for Pakistan in May to take on Gasherbrum II and then ski from the summit and head for Gash I, Hidden Peak.  He will then climb Broad Peak, ascend on skis and then finish with K2 from the south side.

Schmidt has been working to secure sponsorships before he attempts K2 from the North ridge.  He has been approaching many schools to show young people what it takes to attempt this difficult summit and he has been trying to let New Zealanders know what K2’s North ridge is all about.

In June of 2006, Schmidt will be leading a 10-member expedition team from Pakistan heading to K2 and will be climbing the original route of the North Ridge to the Eagles Nest at 8000 meters.  Goals for the team include:  finishing the last 600 meters of the North Ridge; summiting a New Zealander; summiting a Kiwi woman; guiding one client to the summit and starting a commercial operation that will last for many more years; climbing without use of bottled oxygen; making a major motion picture film out of the expedition; and leading a 35-day trek into Chinese Base Camp.

Schmidt, a self-proclaimed accomplished organizer for logistics, people and gear of expeditions, has been involved in international mountain and ski guiding for 28 years, six of these years in the United States Air Force’s elite team of “Pararescue Men”.  Among many things, his accomplishments include guiding a 71 year old client to the summit of Denali in 1988 (the oldest person to have summited Denali to date); becoming the first American and second New Zealander to summit the southwest face on Kangchenjunga; setting the world speed record (at the time) on Cho Oyu on September 28, 2001 in 10 hours, 45 minutes from ABC to summit; and on September 24, 2004 on Cho Oyu, Tibet, summiting a client with no O2 and no Sherpa support, helping to rescue a man who was having a hard time at the 7000 meter mark, ascending Cho Oyu using no fixed lines, no O2, no support, carrying all his own ski gear, and then skiing from the summit to the end of the snow—becoming one of only a few who have skied from the summit of an 8,000 meter mountain.

In addition to all his accomplishments and goals to date, Schmidt has even bigger plans for his future beyond years 2005 & 2006.  He plans on guiding K2, Kangchenjunga, Everest and Cho Oyu for the next 30 years and aims to climb K2 when he is 70, Kangchenjunga when he is 75 and Everest when he is 80 years old. Of course, this is still early in life for a man who plans to live until he is 120!

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot Expedition and mountaineering boot for high altitude and extremely cold conditions. The Everest has conquered all 14 mountains over 8,000m and also the Seven Summits- and has now had a makeover to ensure continued peak preformance. With a newer sung, Alpine Fit, and even lighter Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

 

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   Chaco

   Cloudveil

   Columbia
  
CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
  
Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   FiveTen

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Gregory

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
  
Headlamps

   Hestra
  
Helmets

   Helly Hansen

   HighGear

   HornyToad
  
Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Osprey

   Outdoor Research
  
Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   Prana

   Princeton Tec

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Scott

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
  
Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
  
Yaktrax
  
and more here

 



Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2005 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it