Attempts to rescue the famous
Slovenian climber TOMAZ HUMAR, who is trapped high on the steep rock slopes at
6000 meters were continued during the last two days. An Allouette helicopter
which flew to Astore on Saturday made two attempts on Sunday to reconnitre the
area and was able to come within 40 meters of the climber in high wind
conditions, but mist and clouds forced them to abandon further mission. The
flight however, succeeded in filming the climber’s location for future
Weather conditions on Nanga
Parbat, according to the Base Camp, continue to remain bad. It has been
snowing since 10 p.m. Sunday with no early clearing in sight. It is windy and
cloudy making it impossible for any attempt at heli rescue of Tomaz Humar who
continues to remain trapped on the Rupal face of the mountain for the fifth
day running. Hopefully when weather conditions improve after Tuesday more
rescue attempts will be launched by Pakistan Army Aviators to rescue Tomaz
Foreign Minister Mr. Khurshid
Mahmood Qasuri has directed the Army authorities to provide fullest support in
the evacuation of Slovenian climber Mr. Tomaz Humar. He was promptly reacting
to the briefing given to him by Nazir Sabir eminent mountaineer and President
Alpine Club of Pakistan and Col. Manzoor Hussain on the efforts being made on
rescue operation of the climber. Emphasizing on saving the mountaineer’s life
on humanitarian grounds at all costs, he said no effort should be spared in
also spoke to the Interior Minister Mr. Aftab Ahmed Khan Sherpao and requested
him to facilitate probable visit of helicopter or pilots arranged by the Govt.
Responding to an earlier
request made by Slovenian Foreign Minister he phoned his Slovenian counterpart
and assured fullest support of the Govt. of Pakistan in this matter. Assuring
of Pakistan’s capability to meet the situation he mentioned that Pakistan
would welcome and facilitate any logistical help in men or materials arriving
from Slovenia to augment the rescue operations.
Earlier Update: Tomaz Humar apparently has climbed himself into an area where
he cannot descend the mountain by himself. He has called for a helicopter
rescue. He is currently at 5900 meters.
Sabir, Everest and K2 Summiter, is helping with a helicopter rescue.
Apparently, they are going to try to "throw him a rope". They are going to try
on Monday, but the weather is expected to be very bad on Monday, so there
chances will be much better on Tuesday...
Himalayas are a great mountain range. The central Himalayan mountains are
situated in Nepal, while the eastern mountains extend to the borders of
Bhutan and Sikkim. The Nanga Parbat massif is the western corner pillar of
the Himalayas. It is an isolated range of peaks just springing up from
nothing, and is surrounded by the rivers Indus and Astore. Nanga Parbat or
"Nanga Parvata" means the naked mountain. Its original and appropriate
name, however, is Diamir the king of the mountains.
|Nanga Parbat Base Camp
(main peak) has a height of 8126 meters/26,660 ft. It has three vast faces.
The Rakhiot (Ra Kot) face is dominated by the north and south silver crags and
silver plateau; the Diamir face is rocky in the beginning. It converts itself
into ice fields around Nanga Parbat peak. The Rupal face is the highest
precipice in the world. Reinhold Messner, a living legend in mountaineering
from Italy, says that "every one who has ever stood at the foot of this face
(4500 meters) up above the 'Tap Alpe', studied it or flown over it, could not
help but have been amazed by its sheer size; it has become known as the
highest rock and ice wall in the world!".
has always been associated with tragedies and tribulations until it was
climbed in 1953. A lot of mountaineers have perished on Nanga Parbat since
1895. Even in recent years it has claimed a heavy toll of human lives of
mountaineers, in search of adventure and thrill. Its victims, have
included those in pursuit of new and absolutely un-climbed routes leading
to its summit.
It was in
1841 that a huge rock-slide from the Nanga Parbat dammed the Indus river. This
created a huge lake, 55 km long, like the present Tarbela lake down-stream.
The flood of water that was released when the dam broke caused a rise of 80 ft
in the river's 3 level at Attock and swept away an entire Sikh army. It was
also in the middle of the nineteenth century that similar catastrophes were
later caused by the damming of Hunza and Shyok rivers.
Parbat peak was discovered in the nineteenth century by Europeans. The
Schlagintweit brothers, who hailed from Munich (Germany) came in 1854 to
Himalayas and drew a panoramic view which is the first known picture of
Nanga Parbat. In 1857 one of them was murdered in Kashgar. The curse of
Nanga Parbat had begun.
|Nanga Parbat, Fairy
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