The Perilous Rescue Drama High on the Mountain Comes to its Finale

Update:  The Slovenian climber Tomaz Humar trapped for the past seven days on perched an icy ledge half way up the precipitous Rupal face of the Killer Mountain Nanga Parbat, was snatched from the jaws of death early  by two Pakistan Army helicopters. The operation commenced at 0530 hrs early Wednesday morning when the two Lamas supported by one MI 17 helicopter landed at the Nanga Parbat Rupal Base camp from Jaglot under very clear weather conditions. The Army Aviation crew included Lama helicopter pilots Lt Col. Ubaid, Lt Col. Rashid Ullah Baig, Maj. Naeem, Maj. Khalid and two pilots of the support MI 17 helicopters.

Tomaz was almost frozen as the night was absolutely clear and cold with extremely low temperatures. He kept himself warm by digging snow, barely hung on to the morning and then fell asleep. It was the sound of the roaring helicopter directly next to him, which woke him up.

The helicopter piloted by Lt Col Ubaid and Maj. Naeem attempted to approach Tomaz flying perilously close to the ice wall but could not position themselves on the waving alpinist dressed in red. They gave way to the other hovering helicopter being piloted by Lt Col Rashidullah and Maj Khalid, who flew their chopper with his blades barely escaping collision with the rock wall hovered and lowered their helicopter within metres of Tomaz. Tomaž waited, tied to two ice screws with a loose prusik knot so he would not stagger while trying to catch the weights on the rope. The helicopter approached him, dropped the rope, Tomaž caught it, clipped onto it, raised his thumb to confirm he was OK and the helicopter lifted up. The rescue turned dramatic as he had not managed to free himself from the rope anchored to the mountain. As the helicopter pulled up luckily it broke thus preventing a disaster.

In one of the hair raising rescue ever attempted the Lama helicopter with hanging and crouched Tomaz on the rope under helicopter’s belly descended for another 15 minutes and appeared before the cheering team mates at the 3500 metres high base camp with cameras capturing the drama. After getting helping hands from the other helicopter crew who freed him from the rope Tomaž kissed the earth at 6.30 a.m. Actually, he fell on his knees since he could barely walk from exhaustion. They laid him on the sleeping bag, he cried, hugged everyone around him and continued paying his respect and gratitude to his rescuers. His team mates immediately changed him out of the wet clothes and footwear – his feet were at most risk.

Team Doctor Anda after his check up pronounced Tomaz healthy except for swollen and slight frostbitten feet. All Tomaž wanted to do was to drink and then words flew out of his mouth. He decided to remain at base camp to rest, and is probably leaving for Islamabad tomorrow.

It may be recalled that earlier attempts made by Army helicopters on the afternoon of Aug 9 and by another Allouette helicopter on Aug 6 had not succeeded in approaching him so close due to bad weather conditions.

His family contacts were informed and of the successful rescue. His close friend Nazir Sabir, President Alpine Club of Pakistan who played a key role in organizing this rescue operation remained in continuous contact with the base camp throughout this rescue operation. He reeled down with tears in his eyes as he heard the cheering voices at the base camp in the back ground.

Tomaz team mates were profuse in their praise for the Pakistani pilots who enacted this most unique and daring rescue in the entire Himalayan history.

The Foreign Minister Mr. Khurshid Mehmood Kasuri who had been monitoring the rescue mission with personal interest was briefed by Nazir Sabir on the successful rescue mission immediately on completion.

Tomaz Humor, later speaking on the Satellite telephone from the Base Camp in the afternoon with Nazir Sabir, paid highest tributes to the daring pilots of Pakistan Army who rescued him. He also thanked Foreign Minister Mr Khurshid Ahmad Kasuri, Govt of Paksitan and Pakistan Army for taking personal interest in saving his life. 

He commented “The Pakistan Army helicopter pilots seemed to work magic and the coordination of the entire rescue was absolutely outstanding. No Hollywood film could go any where near what these men did on the deadly Rupal Face today, for which I congratulate them. They make you a proud Pakistani”. 

Recounting his feeling during his ordeal he shared his heart with Nazir Sabir and choked with emotions remarked that he has come to live another life and has pledged Aug 10 being his new birthday.   

Update: Mr. Shoukat Sultan - Army spokman, while briefing told the news that today very early in the morning two Pakistan Army helicopter started the rescue mission taking the advantage of freezing cold. But due to poor visibility it took them longer to finally rescue Mr. Humar. First he was brought down to Nanga Parbat Base Camp where Slovenian Expedition doctor examed Mr. Humar. After he was flown down to Army hospital in Gilgit for further treatment. Mr. Humar is in stable condition and out of danger. Mr. Humar was trapped on Rupal Wall on an altitude of 6000m from 6 days. 

Asghar Ali Porik
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M/s JASMINE TOURS
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Rawalpindi, Pakistan.
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Update: Another attempt to rescue the stranded Slovenian climber Tomaz Humar was made today in the late afternoon by Army helicopters which was later abandoned due to setting in of bad weather and poor visibility.

Earlier, Mr. Nazir Sabir and Col. Manzoor, President and executive V.P respectively of the Alpine Club held another meeting with the Foreign Minister Mr. Khurshid Mahmood Kasuri. Following their briefing on the latest situation, Mr. Kasuri coordinated with the Interior Minister, the Defense Secretary, Minister of State for Defence and Civil Aviation Authority who informed the Minister that landing permission has been granted to any aircraft and helicopter that may arrive from Switzerland to augment the rescue efforts.

Weather has continuously been inclement with no break in the foggy and windy spell till late in the afternoon. It has rained at the Base Camp and with continuous snowing at the spot where Tomaz is stranded at 6000 meters.

The climber who is soaked and suffering from inadequate nutrition resulting from shortage of food and severe cold, is deteriorating fast.

In the morning of Tuesday an Army Aviation team left Rawalpindi for the Nanga Parbat Base Camp to undertake the rescue operations. However, the team comprising could not land at Base Camp due to persistent bad weather. In a pleasing turn around, the weather started clearing in the late afternoon and the three Army helicopters flew into the Base Camp.

After getting due briefing two Lama Helicopters flew from the Base Camp and after locating the besieged climber circled within meters of him but were unable to close in on him due to fading light conditions. The rescue operation has been postponed till early morning on 10 August.

The weather is getting better and as per Pakistan Met Dept. it is expected to remain clear for the next two days.

Update:  Renowned Slovenian alpinist Tomaz Humar has been in a risky life and death situation on the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat for the last four days stuck at around 6000m to which he had climbed down from 6400m he had attained on Thursday since his said "good bye" to his fellows at Base Camp in the afternoon on Aug 01. 

Tomaz Humar became extremely famous for challenging some of the most dangerous mountain faces and outstanding climbing pursuits in the European Alps and the Himalaya.

Tomaz Humar attempted the unclimbed route on Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat also known as "Killer Mountain" in 2003 but had to abandon due to bad weather conditions and his health problems. But the ace climber from Slovenia returned to take on the same route again this summer, when the weather has rather been most notorious for climbers all over the northern Pakistan.

Since he reached BC weather has been very bad but after a few clear days he climbed almost half way up the Rupal face towards his target and the weather tricked him with horrible snow conditions, fog, with thundering avalanches of freshly fallen all around him making it impossible for him to either go up or down the same steps he climbed up. Tomaz Humar is hanging on to this bird-like perch with the help of the few rescue items he has like ice screws and some rope. It has been snowing for the last 48 hours and nights and every few minutes avalanche activity is making it impossible for this  adventurer to make a move towards descent. He is further jeopardized by physical deterioration as he has not been able to sleep in wet snow conditions and cannot dry up which makes life a lot harder.

Knowing the worsening condition minute by minute all evening through August 5 Mr. Tomaz made a request through Base Camp over Radio to his longtime friend and coordinator Nazir Sabir for heli rescue on Saturday evening at 6 p.m. who made an immediate request for a Helicopter rescues and Tomaz tried to climb lower to 6000m to make it a bit easier for the helicopter rescue. He dug a snow hole and counting days till a helicopter lifts him off the Rupal Face. But he also knows he is losing time with every click of clock as the helicopters rescue has so far been out of sight due to the bad weather conditions higher altitude. 

Nazir Sabir talked to Tomaz Humar four times via radio since Friday night and feels the climber is losing psychological grip on his situation as he is counting days and consumes his meager food sources. Tomaz complains of sleepless nights when all around him the snow is sliding down the face.

Best possible efforts are being made and there has appeal for his rescue since Friday evening. It is understood that there have also been highest level contacts between Slovenian and Pakistan authorities concerning rescue arrangements to save life of Tomaz Humar by helicopter being the only option.

This a high profile emergency as Tomaz Humar is a hero in Slovenia world’s most outstanding personality for his great exploits in Alpinism and known for his daring solo climbs on world’s most difficult mountains in recent times.

Nazir Sabir, President Alpine Club of Pakistan, has appealed for his rescue. It can be a very positive image building step as millions around the world are eagerly looking on Pakistan for saving this precious life what may be considered is exploring the ­formation of an expert group of rescuers with appropriate logistical support and facilities acquired if possible. But these options need to be broached NOW while there is time yet for this. For Pakistan having the Siachen experience in hand his rescue will be a unique operation.

As of this evening Humar is in possession of survival spirit but physical deterioration caused by altitude will increase as the hours and minutes tick-by and rescue efforts are delayed for one reason or the other. In the face of the weather reports time is running out as the rations on the plate of Tomaz is in his ice cave and aggressive efforts need to be made as time is slipping out of hand!!! 

the above was the press release from the expedition

Update: Attempts to rescue the famous Slovenian climber TOMAZ HUMAR, who is trapped high on the steep rock slopes at 6000 meters were continued during the last two days. An Allouette helicopter which flew to Astore on Saturday made two attempts on Sunday to reconnitre the area and was able to come within 40 meters of the climber in high wind conditions, but mist and clouds forced them to abandon further mission. The flight however, succeeded in filming the climber’s location for future efforts.

Weather conditions on Nanga Parbat, according to the Base Camp, continue to remain bad. It has been snowing since 10 p.m. Sunday with no early clearing in sight. It is windy and cloudy making it impossible for any attempt at heli rescue of Tomaz Humar who continues to remain trapped on the Rupal face of the mountain for the fifth day running. Hopefully when weather conditions improve after Tuesday more rescue attempts will be launched by Pakistan Army Aviators to rescue Tomaz Humar.

Update: Foreign Minister Mr. Khurshid Mahmood Qasuri has directed the Army authorities to provide fullest support in the evacuation of Slovenian climber Mr. Tomaz Humar. He was promptly reacting to the briefing given to him by Nazir Sabir eminent mountaineer and President Alpine Club of Pakistan and Col. Manzoor Hussain on the efforts being made on rescue operation of the climber. Emphasizing on saving the mountaineer’s life on humanitarian grounds at all costs, he said no effort should be spared in this regard.

Mr. Qasuri also spoke to the Interior Minister Mr. Aftab Ahmed Khan Sherpao and requested him to facilitate probable visit of helicopter or pilots arranged by the Govt. of Slovenia.

Responding to an earlier request made by Slovenian Foreign Minister he phoned his Slovenian counterpart and assured fullest support of the Govt. of Pakistan in this matter. Assuring of Pakistan’s capability to meet the situation he mentioned that Pakistan would welcome and facilitate any logistical help in men or materials arriving from Slovenia to augment the rescue operations.

Earlier Update: Tomaz Humar apparently has climbed himself into an area where he cannot descend the mountain by himself. He has called for a helicopter rescue. He is currently at 5900 meters.

Mr. Nazir Sabir, Everest and K2 Summiter, is helping with a helicopter rescue. Apparently, they are going to try to "throw him a rope". They are going to try on Monday, but the weather is expected to be very bad on Monday, so there chances will be much better on Tuesday...

The Himalayas are a great mountain range. The central Himalayan mountains are situated in Nepal, while the eastern mountains extend to the borders of Bhutan and Sikkim. The Nanga Parbat massif is the western corner pillar of the Himalayas. It is an isolated range of peaks just springing up from nothing, and is surrounded by the rivers Indus and Astore. Nanga Parbat or "Nanga Parvata" means the naked mountain. Its original and appropriate name, however, is Diamir the king of the mountains.

Nanga Parbat Base Camp

Nanga Parbat (main peak) has a height of 8126 meters/26,660 ft. It has three vast faces. The Rakhiot (Ra Kot) face is dominated by the north and south silver crags and silver plateau; the Diamir face is rocky in the beginning. It converts itself into ice fields around Nanga Parbat peak. The Rupal face is the highest precipice in the world. Reinhold Messner, a living legend in mountaineering from Italy, says that "every one who has ever stood at the foot of this face (4500 meters) up above the 'Tap Alpe', studied it or flown over it, could not help but have been amazed by its sheer size; it has become known as the highest rock and ice wall in the world!".

	Nanga Parbat has always been associated with tragedies and tribulations until it was climbed in 1953. A lot of mountaineers have perished on Nanga Parbat since 1895. Even in recent years it has claimed a heavy toll of human lives of mountaineers, in search of adventure and thrill. Its victims, have included those in pursuit of new and absolutely un-climbed routes leading to its summit.
Nanga Parbat

It was in 1841 that a huge rock-slide from the Nanga Parbat dammed the Indus river. This created a huge lake, 55 km long, like the present Tarbela lake down-stream. The flood of water that was released when the dam broke caused a rise of 80 ft in the river's 3 level at Attock and swept away an entire Sikh army. It was also in the middle of the nineteenth century that similar catastrophes were later caused by the damming of Hunza and Shyok rivers.

	The Nanga Parbat peak was discovered in the nineteenth century by Europeans. The Schlagintweit brothers, who hailed from Munich (Germany) came in 1854 to Himalayas and drew a panoramic view which is the first known picture of Nanga Parbat. In 1857 one of them was murdered in Kashgar. The curse of Nanga Parbat had begun.
Nanga Parbat, Fairy meadows

Millet One Sport Everest Boot for Spring 2009 has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

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