Everest and K2 Summiter Piotr Pustelnik Broad Peak 2005: Artur Hajzer probably broke his ankle

According to various sources, so far none of the expeditions present on Broad Peak reached the altitude higher than the members of Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień 2005 Expedition.

Update: Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień 2005 expedition – day 20 (20th of July) Today the members of the expedition have settled the Camp 3 on the altitude 7200 m. It was a very and hard busy day. The members of the expedition left the Camp 2 today at 3 am and after twelve hours they managed to settle the Camp 3. Now in the C3 there are Piotr Pustelnik, Artur Hajzer and members of the Slovak team Martin Gablik and Rudolf Bosjak. Tomorrow they are going to reach the summit.

Update: Day 18 – 18th of July

Today the members of the expedition were improving the Camp II. After few hours of work each of the tents was placed on the newly dug platform. Tomorrow the whole team is going to rest and the day after tomorrow they are going up with the plan to settle the Camp III. If the weather conditions are good, the next day they are going to attack the summit. So far the weather is good and all members feel well.

Due to the favourable weather conditions all other expeditions left the BC and are operating in the higher parts of the mountain.

Update 7/17/2005: Day 17 - 17th of July

Today all members of the expedition reached the camp I. Tomorrow they are going to head for Camp II. Piotr informed us that according to the weather forecast the bad weather period is over. In the following few days the weather conditions should be very good. Therefore, the members of the expedition are planning to settle, within 5-6 days, camp III and then attack the summit.

Best regards, Wojtek Jemiolo

7/15/2005: Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień 2005 – Day 15

Good morning, this is Piotr Pustelnik. This is my first relation from Broad Peak, “the mountain of dreams” situated in Karakorum near K2 in Pakistan. The Lotto-MultiBank Expedition.

Welcome everyone. I am sorry for such a long break, but we’ve had some technical problems.

We settled the Base Camp a week ago. In the beginning the weather was rather bad, later it improved a little for about 2 days. Three days ago we settled the Camp I – unfortunately it is pretty low (5300 m), as there was no place in the traditional site of Camp I. Than the weather broke down again, but we managed to put 500 m of fix ropes above CampI, towards the Camp II. This area is safe now, which is especially important for me. In 1998 my rope broke here and I fell a few hundred meters, which was a terrible experience. Yesterday we settled the Camp II on the altitude of 6200 m and now we went down to rest. In two days we are going to go up – we will try to settle the Camp III, and maybe even the Camp IV.

We all feel well and we have no health problems. The weather is of course terrible – it is very warm down here, therefore we will probably leave at nights.

From Broad Peak, Piotr Pustelnik. Tank you and good bye. I promise to report more regularly from now on.

Update 7/14/2005: This is a short message from Piotr Pustelnik. Messager sent by SMS: ...all of us will go up to the Camp II on the altitude 6400 m..."

Best regards, Wojtek Jemiolo

also, I have made a mistake ! I wrote that in Slovak's team are Martin Gablik and Stanislav Glejdura, but the true is that the second member of this team is Rudolf Bosjak not Stanislav Glejdura.

Sorry! Best wishes, Wojtek Jemiolo

Update: 7/12/2005: Today (12th of July) Piotr Pustelnik, Artur Hajzer and Sherpa in cooperation with Slovak team: Martin Gablik and Rudolf Bosjak, have settled the Camp I on the altitude 5400m. Piotr, Artur and Martin will plan to spend today's night in C1, and Stanislav with  Sherpa went down to BC for other fix ropes. Tomorrow they will come back to C1 and all five will plan to put fix ropes on the way to C2.  Best regards, Wojtek Jemiolo

Update 7/5/2005: first dispatch from the Lotto-MultiBank Gora Pragnien 2005 expedition:

After quick and effective completion of necessary requirements and

reception of the equipment the members of the expedition left Islamabad and the day before they reached the town Skardu. Yesterday the team started trekking towards Ascole and further to the Broad Peak BC. They  should reach the BC around 9 July.

best regards, Wojtek Jemiolo

Update 6/30/2005: Here is Piotr Pustelnik - Lotto - MultiBank Góra Pragnień expedition. In a few days I am going to Pakistan. We want to climb Broad Peak. Me, my partner Artur Hajzer and Slovak team: Martin Gablik and Rudolf Bosjak will try normal (Austrian) route on Broad Peak. I suppose we will establish Base Camp on July, 10. Wish us luck

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The local name of Broad peak is Faichan Kangri. The height of main peak is 8047 meters/26,401ft. It is called Broad Peak because of its breadth at the top. Broad Peak is one of the 8000 meters peaks which towers above the Concordia at the heart of the Karakorum range. It lies on the Pakistan/China frontier between K2 and the Gasherbrum peaks and was first climbed by four Austrians in 1957, including Kurt Diemberger and Herman Buhl.

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Spanish Broad Peak 2002 Expedition

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