Today's News
   8000 Meters Facts
Banners Ads
   Classified Ads
   Climb for Peace


   Mailing List

News (current)
   News Archives
   Sat Phones
   Seven Summits
   Readers Guide

   Trip Reports
   Visitor Agreement






  Everest and K2 Summiter Piotr Pustelnik Broad Peak 2005: Artur Hajzer probably broke his ankle

Update: Lotto-Multibank Gora Pragnien 2005 - day 22: According to the information sent by Piotr Pustelnik, yesterday at 5.30 p.m. he reached the Rocky Summit – 8006 m. (called also Broad Peak Middle), the lower summit of Broad Peak. Artur Hajzer was about 80 m. behind him. Due to very difficult weather conditions and late time they decided to return to camp III. They had about 2 hours to the main summit. On the way back to the camp III an accident happened, in which Artur Hajzer probably broke his ankle. It was necessary to organise the rescue mission. Currently all members of the expedition are safe and are resting in Camp II. The members decided to end the expedition.

According to various sources, so far none of the expeditions present on Broad Peak reached the altitude higher than the members of Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień 2005 Expedition.

Update: Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień 2005 expedition – day 20 (20th of July) Today the members of the expedition have settled the Camp 3 on the altitude 7200 m. It was a very and hard busy day. The members of the expedition left the Camp 2 today at 3 am and after twelve hours they managed to settle the Camp 3. Now in the C3 there are Piotr Pustelnik, Artur Hajzer and members of the Slovak team Martin Gablik and Rudolf Bosjak. Tomorrow they are going to reach the summit.

Update: Day 18 – 18th of July

Today the members of the expedition were improving the Camp II. After few hours of work each of the tents was placed on the newly dug platform. Tomorrow the whole team is going to rest and the day after tomorrow they are going up with the plan to settle the Camp III. If the weather conditions are good, the next day they are going to attack the summit. So far the weather is good and all members feel well.

Due to the favourable weather conditions all other expeditions left the BC and are operating in the higher parts of the mountain.

Update 7/17/2005: Day 17 - 17th of July

Today all members of the expedition reached the camp I. Tomorrow they are going to head for Camp II. Piotr informed us that according to the weather forecast the bad weather period is over. In the following few days the weather conditions should be very good. Therefore, the members of the expedition are planning to settle, within 5-6 days, camp III and then attack the summit.

Best regards, Wojtek Jemiolo

7/15/2005: Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień 2005 – Day 15

Good morning, this is Piotr Pustelnik. This is my first relation from Broad Peak, “the mountain of dreams” situated in Karakorum near K2 in Pakistan. The Lotto-MultiBank Expedition.

Welcome everyone. I am sorry for such a long break, but we’ve had some technical problems.

We settled the Base Camp a week ago. In the beginning the weather was rather bad, later it improved a little for about 2 days. Three days ago we settled the Camp I – unfortunately it is pretty low (5300 m), as there was no place in the traditional site of Camp I. Than the weather broke down again, but we managed to put 500 m of fix ropes above CampI, towards the Camp II. This area is safe now, which is especially important for me. In 1998 my rope broke here and I fell a few hundred meters, which was a terrible experience. Yesterday we settled the Camp II on the altitude of 6200 m and now we went down to rest. In two days we are going to go up – we will try to settle the Camp III, and maybe even the Camp IV.

We all feel well and we have no health problems. The weather is of course terrible – it is very warm down here, therefore we will probably leave at nights.

From Broad Peak, Piotr Pustelnik. Tank you and good bye. I promise to report more regularly from now on.

Update 7/14/2005: This is a short message from Piotr Pustelnik. Messager sent by SMS: ...all of us will go up to the Camp II on the altitude 6400 m..."

Best regards, Wojtek Jemiolo

also, I have made a mistake ! I wrote that in Slovak's team are Martin Gablik and Stanislav Glejdura, but the true is that the second member of this team is Rudolf Bosjak not Stanislav Glejdura.

Sorry! Best wishes, Wojtek Jemiolo

Update: 7/12/2005: Today (12th of July) Piotr Pustelnik, Artur Hajzer and Sherpa in cooperation with Slovak team: Martin Gablik and Rudolf Bosjak, have settled the Camp I on the altitude 5400m. Piotr, Artur and Martin will plan to spend today's night in C1, and Stanislav with  Sherpa went down to BC for other fix ropes. Tomorrow they will come back to C1 and all five will plan to put fix ropes on the way to C2.  Best regards, Wojtek Jemiolo

Update 7/5/2005: first dispatch from the Lotto-MultiBank Gora Pragnien 2005 expedition:


After quick and effective completion of necessary requirements and

reception of the equipment the members of the expedition left Islamabad and the day before they reached the town Skardu. Yesterday the team started trekking towards Ascole and further to the Broad Peak BC. They  should reach the BC around 9 July.


best regards, Wojtek Jemiolo

Update 6/30/2005: Here is Piotr Pustelnik - Lotto - MultiBank Góra Pragnień expedition. In a few days I am going to Pakistan. We want to climb Broad Peak. Me, my partner Artur Hajzer and Slovak team: Martin Gablik and Rudolf Bosjak will try normal (Austrian) route on Broad Peak. I suppose we will establish Base Camp on July, 10. Wish us luck

Featured Expedition: Jean-Christophe Lafaille heads to Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak both via new routes!

Jean-Christophe Lafaille 2003: Broad Peak Photo Show

Broad Peak Picture Show

The local name of Broad peak is Faichan Kangri. The height of main peak is 8047 meters/26,401ft. It is called Broad Peak because of its breadth at the top. Broad Peak is one of the 8000 meters peaks which towers above the Concordia at the heart of the Karakorum range. It lies on the Pakistan/China frontier between K2 and the Gasherbrum peaks and was first climbed by four Austrians in 1957, including Kurt Diemberger and Herman Buhl.

Swiss Broad Peak Expedition 2003 led by Jean Troillet


Jasmine Tours K2/Broad Peak Expedition 2003

Broad Peak 2002

Broad Peak History

: Great Pictures from Broad Peak Summits
Broad Peak 2001 Expeditions and News

Broad Peak 2000 Expeditions and News

2001 Alaska USA Broad Peak Expedition

Spanish Broad Peak 2002 Expedition

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.




   Atlas snowshoes


   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond







   Edelweiss ropes
Eureka Tents






   Granite Gear



   Helly Hansen


Ice Axes


   Kavu Eyewear





   Life is Good


   Lowe Alpine




   Mountain Hardwear




   New England Ropes




   Outdoor Research




   Princeton Tec


   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins




   Seattle Sports

Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope







   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
and more here


Send email to     •   Copyright© 1998-2005 EverestNews.com
All rights Reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten, or redistributed.
Disclaimer, Privacy Policy, Visitor Agreement, Legal Notes: Read it