Update: These are the two message we received from the team:
Piotr Pustelnik said: Denis Urubko and Siergey Samoylov have
finished a new rout!!! Denis Urubko and Sergey Samoylov have finished a new
route from Concordia to Broad Peak Summit. They settled 5 bivacs in 6 days.
Now they are coming back to the Base Camp.
Update: Lotto-Multibank Gora Pragnien 2005 - day 22: According to the
information sent by Piotr Pustelnik, yesterday at 5.30 p.m. he reached the
Rocky Summit – 8006 m. (called also Broad Peak Middle), the lower summit of
Broad Peak. Artur Hajzer was about 80 m. behind him. Due to very difficult
weather conditions and late time they decided to return to camp III. They had
about 2 hours to the main summit. On the way back to the camp III an accident
happened, in which Artur Hajzer probably broke his ankle. It was necessary to
organise the rescue mission. Currently all members of the expedition are safe
and are resting in Camp II. The members decided to end the expedition.
to various sources, so far none of the expeditions present on Broad Peak
reached the altitude higher than the members of Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień
Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień
2005 expedition – day 20 (20th of July) Today the members of the expedition
have settled the Camp 3 on the altitude 7200 m. It was a very and hard busy
day. The members of the expedition left the Camp 2 today at 3 am and after
twelve hours they managed to settle the Camp 3. Now in the C3 there are Piotr
Pustelnik, Artur Hajzer and members of the Slovak team Martin Gablik and
Rudolf Bosjak. Tomorrow they are going to reach the summit.
Day 18 – 18th
Today the members of the expedition were improving the Camp
II. After few hours of work each of the tents was placed on the newly dug
platform. Tomorrow the whole team is going to rest and the day after tomorrow
they are going up with the plan to settle the Camp III. If the weather
conditions are good, the next day they are going to attack the summit. So far
the weather is good and all members feel well.
Due to the
favourable weather conditions all other expeditions left the BC and are
operating in the higher parts of the mountain.
Day 17 - 17th of July
Today all members of the
expedition reached the camp I. Tomorrow they are going to head for Camp II.
Piotr informed us that according to the weather forecast the bad weather
period is over. In the following few days the weather conditions should be
very good. Therefore, the members of the expedition are planning to settle,
within 5-6 days, camp III and then attack the summit.
Best regards, Wojtek Jemiolo
Góra Pragnień 2005 – Day 15
Good morning, this is Piotr
Pustelnik. This is my first relation from Broad Peak, “the mountain of dreams”
situated in Karakorum near K2 in Pakistan. The Lotto-MultiBank
Welcome everyone. I am sorry
for such a long break, but we’ve had some technical problems.
We settled the Base Camp a
week ago. In the beginning the weather was rather bad, later it improved a
little for about 2 days. Three days ago we settled the Camp I – unfortunately
it is pretty low (5300 m), as there was no place in the traditional site of
Camp I. Than the weather broke down again, but we managed to put 500 m of fix
ropes above CampI, towards the Camp II. This area is safe now, which is
especially important for me. In 1998 my rope broke here and I fell a few
hundred meters, which was a terrible experience. Yesterday we settled the Camp
II on the altitude of 6200 m and now we went down to rest. In two days we are
going to go up – we will try to settle the Camp III, and maybe even the Camp
We all feel well and we have
no health problems. The weather is of course terrible – it is
very warm down here, therefore we will probably leave at nights.
From Broad Peak, Piotr
Pustelnik. Tank you and good bye. I promise to report more regularly from now
This is a short message from
Piotr Pustelnik. Messager sent by SMS: ...all of us will go up to the Camp II
on the altitude 6400 m..."
Best regards, Wojtek Jemiolo
I have made a mistake ! I wrote
that in Slovak's team are Martin Gablik and Stanislav Glejdura, but the true
is that the second member of this team is Rudolf Bosjak not Stanislav Glejdura.
Sorry! Best wishes, Wojtek
Today (12th of July) Piotr
Pustelnik, Artur Hajzer and Sherpa in cooperation with Slovak team: Martin
Bosjak, have settled the Camp I on the altitude 5400m.
Piotr, Artur and Martin will plan to spend today's night in C1, and Stanislav
with Sherpa went down to BC for other fix ropes. Tomorrow they will come back
to C1 and all five will plan to put fix ropes on the way to C2. Best regards,
first dispatch from the Lotto-MultiBank
Gora Pragnien 2005 expedition:
and effective completion of necessary requirements and
of the equipment the members of the expedition left Islamabad and the day
before they reached the town Skardu. Yesterday the team started trekking
towards Ascole and further to the Broad Peak BC. They should reach the
BC around 9 July.
regards, Wojtek Jemiolo
Update 6/30/2005: Here is Piotr
Pustelnik - Lotto - MultiBank Góra Pragnień expedition. In a few days I am
going to Pakistan. We want to climb Broad Peak. Me, my partner Artur Hajzer
and Slovak team: Martin Gablik and Rudolf Bosjak will try normal (Austrian)
route on Broad Peak. I suppose we will establish Base Camp on July, 10. Wish
heads to Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak both via
Jean-Christophe Lafaille 2003: Broad
Peak Photo Show
||The local name of Broad
peak is Faichan Kangri. The height of main peak is 8047 meters/26,401ft.
It is called Broad Peak because of its breadth at the top.
Broad Peak is one of the 8000 meters
peaks which towers above the Concordia at the heart of the Karakorum
range. It lies on the Pakistan/China frontier between K2 and the
Gasherbrum peaks and was first climbed by four Austrians in 1957,
including Kurt Diemberger and Herman Buhl.
Spanish Broad Peak 2002
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here.
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.