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  Everest and K2 Summiter Piotr Pustelnik Broad Peak 2005: I am not going to retire yet


Update: Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień 2005 – day 25

 

Good Morning, this is Piotr Pustelnik from the BC under Broad Peak,

Karakorum – Pakistan. Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień 2005 Expedition. We decided to attack the summit when all weather forecasts indicated 3-4 days of good weather. We took this decision although we spent only 4 days on this mountain and we managed to put the fix ropes up to Camp 2. We also spent very little time on the altitude 6000 m, so our decision was pretty risky, but when you are here you must use these scarce period of good weather. 

 

We spent 2 days in Camp 2, afterwards we had a very hard way to  Camp 3 (the change of altitude was about 1000m) and than we attacked the summit. We started climbing at 4-5 a.m. The snow was deep and heavy, so we couldn’t move very fast. When we reached the pass there were about 20 other climbers and no one wanted to lead. So we started and we put the fix ropes up to the pass. It became really late – my partners were behind and I decided to go up with two Czechs. We put fix ropes in some steep parts between the pass and the Rocky Summit. We reached the Rocky Summit at 5 p.m. – normally it is about 40 minutes from the Main Summit, but with so much snow it was about 2 hours. I decided not to go to the Main Summit as it was too late and too risky and I returned to the pass. On the way back Artur Hajzer fell about 50 m on the fix ropes – luckily he managed to stop, but he broke his ankle. After a 3-days rescue action, with help of the members of other expedition, we took him down and he was taken to the hospital in Skardu. Than we decided to end the expedition. The weather forecasts do not expect another such long period of good weather, so there is no sense to go back up. The expedition was really quick and exhausting. It was also full of new experience, also the negative one. But the most important is that we saved the man. It was possible due to help of many people up there, so we want to thank them all. That is all for now, you will hear from me soon…I am not going to retire yet. Thank you all, good bye.  Piotr Pustelnik

 

Featured Expedition: Jean-Christophe Lafaille heads to Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak both via new routes!

Jean-Christophe Lafaille 2003: Broad Peak Photo Show

Broad Peak Picture Show

The local name of Broad peak is Faichan Kangri. The height of main peak is 8047 meters/26,401ft. It is called Broad Peak because of its breadth at the top. Broad Peak is one of the 8000 meters peaks which towers above the Concordia at the heart of the Karakorum range. It lies on the Pakistan/China frontier between K2 and the Gasherbrum peaks and was first climbed by four Austrians in 1957, including Kurt Diemberger and Herman Buhl.
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Swiss Broad Peak Expedition 2003 led by Jean Troillet

 

Jasmine Tours K2/Broad Peak Expedition 2003

Broad Peak 2002

Broad Peak History

: Great Pictures from Broad Peak Summits
Broad Peak 2001 Expeditions and News

Broad Peak 2000 Expeditions and News

2001 Alaska USA Broad Peak Expedition

Spanish Broad Peak 2002 Expedition

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot Expedition and mountaineering boot for high altitude and extremely cold conditions. The Everest has conquered all 14 mountains over 8,000m and also the Seven Summits- and has now had a makeover to ensure continued peak preformance. With a newer sung, Alpine Fit, and even lighter Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

 

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






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