Everest and K2 Summiter Piotr Pustelnik Broad Peak 2005: Hushe

Today Piotr Pustelnik, Martin Gablik and Rudolf Bosjak have reached the Hushe around 12.00 a.m. (local time) and, after short rest, they moved to Skardu. Tomorrow they are going to arrive at Islamabad, catching on the short rest-time in Besham

Best regards, Wojtek Jemiolo

Update: Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień 2005 – day 25

Good Morning, this is Piotr Pustelnik from the BC under Broad Peak,

Karakorum – Pakistan. Lotto-MultiBank Góra Pragnień 2005 Expedition. We decided to attack the summit when all weather forecasts indicated 3-4 days of good weather. We took this decision although we spent only 4 days on this mountain and we managed to put the fix ropes up to Camp 2. We also spent very little time on the altitude 6000 m, so our decision was pretty risky, but when you are here you must use these scarce period of good weather. 

We spent 2 days in Camp 2, afterwards we had a very hard way to  Camp 3 (the change of altitude was about 1000m) and than we attacked the summit. We started climbing at 4-5 a.m. The snow was deep and heavy, so we couldn’t move very fast. When we reached the pass there were about 20 other climbers and no one wanted to lead. So we started and we put the fix ropes up to the pass. It became really late – my partners were behind and I decided to go up with two Czechs. We put fix ropes in some steep parts between the pass and the Rocky Summit. We reached the Rocky Summit at 5 p.m. – normally it is about 40 minutes from the Main Summit, but with so much snow it was about 2 hours. I decided not to go to the Main Summit as it was too late and too risky and I returned to the pass. On the way back Artur Hajzer fell about 50 m on the fix ropes – luckily he managed to stop, but he broke his ankle. After a 3-days rescue action, with help of the members of other expedition, we took him down and he was taken to the hospital in Skardu. Than we decided to end the expedition. The weather forecasts do not expect another such long period of good weather, so there is no sense to go back up. The expedition was really quick and exhausting. It was also full of new experience, also the negative one. But the most important is that we saved the man. It was possible due to help of many people up there, so we want to thank them all. That is all for now, you will hear from me soon…I am not going to retire yet. Thank you all, good bye.  Piotr Pustelnik

Featured Expedition: Jean-Christophe Lafaille heads to Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak both via new routes!

Jean-Christophe Lafaille 2003: Broad Peak Photo Show

Broad Peak Picture Show

The local name of Broad peak is Faichan Kangri. The height of main peak is 8047 meters/26,401ft. It is called Broad Peak because of its breadth at the top. Broad Peak is one of the 8000 meters peaks which towers above the Concordia at the heart of the Karakorum range. It lies on the Pakistan/China frontier between K2 and the Gasherbrum peaks and was first climbed by four Austrians in 1957, including Kurt Diemberger and Herman Buhl.

/	Swiss Broad Peak Expedition 2003 led by Jean Troillet   Jasmine Tours K2/Broad Peak Expedition 2003 Broad Peak 2002 Broad Peak History

Spanish Broad Peak 2002 Expedition

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

   Ascenders

   Atlas snowshoes

   Atomic

   Big Agnes

   Black Diamond

   Brunton

   Carabiners

   Chaco

   Cloudveil

   Columbia
   CMI

   Crampons

   Edelweiss ropes
   Eureka Tents

   Exofficio

   FiveTen

   Featured

   FoxRiver

   Gregory

   Granite Gear

   Harnesses
   Headlamps

   Hestra
   Helmets

   Helly Hansen

   HighGear

   HornyToad
   Ice Axes

   Julbo

   Kavu Eyewear

   Katadyn

   Kelty

   Kong

   Lekisport

   Life is Good

   Lowa

   Lowe Alpine

   Lowepro

   Millet

   Motorola

   Mountain Hardwear

   Mountainsmith

   MSR

   Nalgene

   New England Ropes

   Nikwax

   Omega

   Osprey

   Outdoor Research
   Patagonia

   Pelican

   Petzl

   Prana

   Princeton Tec

   Primus

   Rope Bags

   Royal Robbins

   Salomon

   Scarpa

   Scott

   Seattle Sports

   Serius
   Sleeping Bags

   Sterling Rope

   Stubai

   Suunto

   Tents

   Teva

   Thermarest

   Trango

   Tool Logic

   Trekking Poles
   Yaktrax
   and more here