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  SUMMIT G2. RV: Pablo Luque tells in his Journal


We had not gone beyond Camp 1 (6,000m) when the bad weather came, we were stuck one whole week at Base Camp (5,100m).  The forecast said it would be interesting to attempt the summit attack during the weekend.  Our strategy was clear, we would not do a “see-saw”; that means, to climb high and sleep below.  We would always climb to the higher altitude camps, almost in alpine style (carrying everything we needed), and we would not go down until we would get the summit or at least, a summit attempt.

We got into an infernal glacier, the crevasses were getting wider and wider, we reached Camp 1 by the plateau. We were here for two days, the second day with bad weather.  At the third day, with bad weather and the backpacks full of food, gas, high altitude materials, high altitude tents…; we climbed, with the help of the fixed lines, by endless and very steep slopes up to Camp 2 (6,500m).  With the snow on our faces we installed the tent.  We rested, hydrated and recovered to climb the next day to Camp 3.  At day break we saw that the sky was cloudy and it was still snowing.  We decided to wait one more day at Camp 2.  It was the same day when Lina climbed and came down from Camp 3 without finding her tent.  The wind of the previous week had blown away her tent and all her material.  She decided to go down to Base Camp and recover from the effort and to look for high altitude materials for the summit approach. 

On Friday morning it was clear at daybreak, I talk to Kake to make him climb to Camp 3.  We had breakfast, picked up our things and left for Camp 3.  At the beginning of a vertical wall, Kake decided to quit, the cold in his fingers doesn’t let him continue.  The bad moments of Aconcagua come to his head, when we suffered frostbite in the big toe of his right foot.  We said goodbye with a big hug and with tears in our eyes.  He went down to Base Camp and I continued solo towards Camp 3.  I join Jorge, who climbed the previous day.  He has a tent, he prepares food and water so that I would hydrate.  Both of us were ready to attack the summit that same night.

The alarm clock rings at eleven in the evening.  We prep up, have breakfast and we leave at midnight from the tent to start our adventure to the summit of G II.  Jorge was ahead and I was advancing behind and slow.  We started on a very long slope. Then we got into the spur of mixed rocks, there are fixed lines.  The stones fall from above.  A little later, Jorge says he quits, he lost his piolet.  I was there alone, but I was confident that it would be my day.  I continued climbing alone.  At daybreak, I reached Camp 4 (7,500m).  Then I passed by the Sojourn, which I found very long.  Little by little I passed the Breach of rocks and I went to the Chinese Col, I was at 7,800m of altitude.  At that moment I was facing the summit slope.  The sun was severe.  I walked for several hours until I reached the last fixed lines.  I was very close.  First a rope, then another, one more and then I reached the summit ridge.  I sat on it.  The summit was in the background, and under my left foot Pakistan and under my right foot China.  I went to the Chinese side, I walked slow but sure by the ridge and finally, after 13:30 hours I reached the summit of Gasherbrum II, I was at 8,035 meters of altitude.  The Córdoba 8000 Project, Everest 2007 had one more success.  Andalucía, Córdoba and Cabra had another summit.  It was the moment to remember of the institutions, friends, family and the one I love.

Translated by Jorge Rivera

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

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