Krzysztof Wielicki’s Report
Gasherbrum’s BC July 26th 2006 Krzysztof Wielicki’s
After summitting almost everybody has already returned to the base camp.
Janusz Majer together with his team are spending the night in C1 and tomorrow
they will take all the equipment and rubbish down to the base camp with the
help of some carriers who have been hired especially for the occasion.
what the summit bid was like: we left the base to head up to C1 and the next
day we got to C3 at approx. 7000m. On July 25th
around midnight we (Fronia, Jucha, Podsiadło and me) set off from the camp
towards the summit planning to skip C4 while walking. There were Janusz Majer,
Agnieszka Adamowska and Zbigniew Zimniewicz, waiting for us in C4 to join in
and accompany us in our push for the summit. We reached C4 situated at 7400m
at about 3 o’clock in the morning.
It was a little windy and freezing cold. Janusz i
Agnieszka turned out to have already attempted to go up, but they gave in and
returned to their tent. Their acclimatization was the weakest of all of us,
only from 6000m, from C1 and I myself discouraged them from risking the summit
push. Zbigniew Zimniewicz, however, who, despite his acclimatization being far
from perfect itself, was waiting for us with all the gear and ready to climb,
joined the team.
There were also four Spanish climbers from a military expedition who attacked
the summit on that day. They left C3 one hour before us. And so there were
nine of us altogether. Rafał Fronia summitted first within 7,5 hours!!!!
Robert and I got there an hour later, followed shortly by Paweł Podsiadło and
a whole hour after him Zbyszek Zimniewicz, with his worse acclimatization.
Gorgeous views, pictures and descent. By then Janusz and Agnieszka had already
climbed down to C3. For safety reasons I went last, following weaker
Zbyszek. One of the Spaniards was slightly weaker too,
possibly exhausted but also (I think!) lacking technically and on the last
traverse of the summit wall, during the descent, I saw him fall off and go
down for about 100 m. Luckily, he stopped in a basin because further there was
My companions had already gone down, there was only one of the Spanish
climbers waiting for his friend below - on the border of visibility. I stayed,
too. Having examined the Spaniard I decided his condition was serious. We
wanted him to stand up and move but he wasn‘t too keen. His neck and head
hurt. Then Mike Farris (USA) came up with another climber at the moment. He
was on his summit bid, but stopped and we tried to do together our best to
help to the Spaniard. This was at approx. 7600m.
I got in touch with my team, who had already reached C4.
There were also two Spanish climbers already there from the Spanish summit
team. I suggested that they take our polish tent, sleeping bag, gas, stoves,
food and climb up to 7600m so as to let the injured wait until the morning for
possible transport (Spaniards did not have any equipment at C4). I also asked
our doctor (summiter) - Paweł Podsiadło – to climb up again to the injured.
Paweł started the climb but, unfortunately, because of tirednes and exhaustion
he didn’t manage to reach the injured.
The Spanish doctor was in C1 and it was him who took over the supervision of
the emergency rescue and passed the essential medicines up the mountain
immediately. When I and Mike were sure that the rescue team consist of HAPs
and Spanish climbers is on the way up and that we can not do anything more –
we left the injured under control of his Spanish partner and gone: me down,
Mike up. At C4 I met one Spaniard climbing up with our equipment to the
Today the injured Spaniard has been reported to be on his way below C4 and
everything should end well. HAPs assisted him, he walked himself.
Mountains are unpredictable but this accident made me realize once more that
fashionable summit pushes without acclimatization can have very negative
Two Polish climbers -
Pawel Mitura i Boguslaw Chamielec - summitted Gasherbrum II 26th of July
afternoon. This is two person team who shares permit and BC costs with our The
Playground Friends HiMountain Gasherbrum Expedition.
Gasherbrum II summitted
The Playground Friends
HiMountain Gasherbrum II 2006 Expedition
Ryszard Pawlowski i Marek
Chmielarski reached the top of Gasherbrum II today - July 23 - at 10 am local
Krzysztof Wielicki plus 3
climbers is on summit push - today at C1 and plan to climb to C3 tomorrow.
Janusz Majer plus 2 climbers
is at C3 and plan to go C1 tomorrow.
Earlier: The Playground Friends
HiMountain Gasherbrum II 2006 Expedition - CAMP 3 7/19/2006: Today - 19th July
- team consist of Krzysztof Wielicki, Robert Jucha, Rafal Fronia, Pawel
Podsiadlo set up Camp 3 on 6970m. They will sleep here tonight and plan come
back to BC tomorrow. "Whole team is in good condition. It is windy and cloudy,
we see some tents of others expeditions damaged" - reported Wielicki today
afternoon local time.
Ryszard Pawłowski and Marek Chmielarski are on C2 on 6530m. The others
expedition members resting in C1 and some of them at BC.
We are in C1 7/18/2006:
Almost all of us - we are in C1. Ryszard and Marek, after their last
adventures, resting in BC still. Ewa and Barbara are in ABC. The weather is
fine - sunshine - even to hot. There are 20 tents in C1 - not so many as last
time :-) - but we are not sure if is due to storm "work" or due to other
reasons. Tomorrow we will continue to climb as high as possible to C2 or even
C3 on 6700m.
We are in C1 7/17/2006: Almost all of us - we are in C1.
Ryszard and Marek, after their last adventures, resting in BC still. Ewa and
Barbara are in ABC. The weather is fine - sunshine - even to hot. There are 20
tents in C1 - not so many as last time :-) - but we are not sure if is due to
storm "work" or due to other reasons. Tomorrow we will continue to climb as
high as possible to C2 or even C3 on 6700m.
Update 1: On June 27th the Krzyszof Wielicki, Ryszard
Pawłowski, Janusz Majer - the playground 3 friends expedition left Poland for
They arived to Islamabad without problems. They plan to
colect cargo and visit Ministry of Tourism tomorrow then the expedition should
start to Skardu the day after tomorrow. They should be at BC July 10th.
Update 2: The Playground Friends HiMountain Gasherbrum II
Expedition - old troupers caught with their trousers down? 7/05/2006
After landing in Islamabad, nobody cared much at first that
the expedition cargo was not there yet (it was due to arrive the next day).
Things were going according to plan. The expedition briefing and departure to
Skardu by bus were planned. The next day, the atmosphere became tense when it
appeared the cargo had not arrived. Only the briefing went according to plan,
the rest was pure improvisation.
However, the briefing itself was a kind of a novelty. It was not held at the
Ministry of Tourism, as it had been so far, but at the premises of the
Pakistan Alpine Club which had been trying for a few years to “take over
control” of the climbing traffic in Karakorum. It is apparent now that the
“takeover” has succeeded and that some quality changes may be expected in
accessibility, logistics and infrastructure in Karakorum in the coming years.
This is rather good news for the Himalayan mountaineers – it seems that the
Pakistan Alpine Club is closer to the problem and understands better the
modern nature of climbing expeditions; we may hope that the funds raised from
charges for climbing permits will be better used and more will be spent on
development and protection of the region, in addition to “rescue” needs.
After the briefing, however, the expedition leaders, puzzled
by the absence of their luggage, decided not to delay any further and the
expedition left Islamabad in the hope that the cargo would catch up with them.
Climbing up, they were inundated with telephone calls from both Kolex, a
freight forwarding company in Warsaw and British Airways. In Skardu, when it
became clear the cargo would arrive in Pakistan as late as the 2nd July, they
decided to split up. Ryszard Pawłowski stayed in Skardu. The rest went by jeep
to Askole from where they set off on foot on 3rd July, heading for the
Baltoro glacier and the base camp. "Problems are our speciality; we haven’t
got sleeping bags for camping or trekking boots for walking but we’re
improvising and somehow we manage”, reported Janusz Majer. “Tomorrow, in Paj,
we may organise a rest day, we’ll install the began and send you more
details”, he added.
The Playground Friends Expedition to Gasherbrum II - We’re
counting ourselves - We are 12
Now that we are having a break from Paju,
we can slow down and count ourselves. Our group is quite big, we met at the
airport and not everybody really knew what the make up of our party was. The
speed at which we travelled and the fact that we lost one member of the group
in London did not make things any clearer.
1. Zbigniew Zimniewicz
2. Rafał Frona
3. Michał Kobylecki
4. Robert Jucha
5. Agnieszka Adamowska
6. Paweł Podsiadło
7. Ewa Dumańska
8. Barbara Skarżyńska
9. Marek Chmielarski
10. Krzysztof Wielicki
11. Ryszard Pawłowski
12. Janusz Majer
We also share the permit and base
camp costs with two other teams that will carry out individual, independent
mountain activities. One team is composed of two climbers from the Czech
Republic and the other one is a pair of climbers from Poland, Paweł Mitura and
Bogusław Chamielec. Generally speaking, and from the formal point of view
(according to what is written in the Pakistani documents), there are 16
Ryszard and Marek managed come down to BC
The weather is really very
bad. Ryszard Pawlowski and Marek Chmielarski, after two nights in C1, managed
to come back to BC today, on July 14, however it was difficult and dangerous.
The crevasses are unnormal large, there is a lot of snow and visibility is
zero. So, there were a lot of adventure to go down. Fortunately, the team was
supported by two Dutch climbers (Frits Vrijland and Court Haegens), who gave
up their summit bid and turned back from high camps. They called two HAP, who
came to ABC and helped with the further truck to BC. Ryszard and Marek spent 5
hours to get from C1 to ABC. At C1 there is a big storm at the moment. 3 tents
flew out high to somewere (not our exp.) and next 3 ones had been caught by
Ryszard and fixed in very last moment before their leaving . Now, whole team
is back in the BC and having a party together with Anka, Darek and Tamara from
Hidden Peak Exp. If the weather is good starting Sunday, then it will be
possible to climb again, but not earlier than Tuesday 19th July.
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