Gasherbrum 2006: SERBIA - KARAKORUM 2006 Moving up!

Update 7/11/2006:  Serbia-Karakorum update

MOVING UP!

10/07/06 - Two of us, Iso Planic and Goran Ferlan, with two altitude climbers, arrived in C-2 (6400 m). In case of propitiatory of weather they will go on to  Gasherbrum-2 which is one of our goals this year. Good luck boys! Milivoj Erdeljan 

Update: Here is the latest news:

WE ARE READY! 06/07/06 BC Today we finished all  arrangement for climbing on G-2. Our recent altitude camp (C-3) is on 7200 m. We are waiting for propitiatory of weather - it must be long enough to climb up and safe return of the peak. Until now it was all  by  program. Unless avalanche which was falling down on altitude camps but we had no  damages. Most important in this moment: all of us endure  the height and we are healthy. Milivoj Erdeljan
 

Update: With Corean team we are working on safeguard of the road to Gasherbrum 2 (G-2). Weather is  unstable but we observe forecasts. Best regards to our families. And to friends all around the world. Milivoj Erdeljan, leader of the team

Update 7/2/06 C-1 (5900 m)  This morning we arrived in C-1 (first altitude camp).  Hard snow began at highnoon.  We are waiting. When the snow stop we will go back down in BC. Milivoj Erdeljan, leader

Update: 28/6/06  - 6.00 am (LT) C-1 (5.900 m). Last night 50 cm of new snow was falling down. It is very cloudy here.

We are going back to BC. M. Erdeljan, leader of the team

Update: 6/23/2006      Today we installed C-1  on 5.900 m. This is our base for  both upsurges, G-1 and G-2.  Overshot across south  glacier Gasherbrum  dictated  installation of fix ropes and link-climbing because of many cracks. The glacier we overpassed overnight.      M. Jovovic, organizer

     6/27/2006:  Today we  came to the C-1 (5.900 m) again. We spend 6 hours on this way.      In this moment clouds are falling down from Gasherbrum peaks.      Tomorrow we will going to C-2 (6.400 m) to put fix ropes.     Yesterday we got oxygen.          Milivoj Erdeljan, ledaer of the team

Update 6/22/2006: 6/22/06 BC (5050m)

  - We are in BC finally. After 7 days of footing and 1 day of rest   we arrived yesterday. All of us are well and enduring of high is good. During the footing we were burning of the sun.   All of equipment was arrived too. Food is excellent, much better than in Nepal.   Assistance is unbelievable - to the BC we have had convoy of 170 carriers  which went back. Now there are 13 of us.

Next 3 days we will arrange and assort BC. After that we start further.  Best wishes to all, Miodrag Jovovic, organizer of Serbia Karakorum team

Update 6/18/2006: We arrived in Urdukas (4300 m). All of us are well. Weather is sunny and to hot. Tomorrow we continue to BC. Say hello to all in Serbia.

There are some details about members of Serbia-Karakorum team.

Milivoj Erdeljan, climber, leader of the team

Born: 9/21/1964

Member of MC (Mountaineer club) "Zanatlija", Novi Sad.

Expeditions: Kavkaz (1989), Ararat (2001) Mt. Kilimanjaro (2002) Barunze (2003) Shisha Pangma (2004) Mount Everest (2005)

Iso Planic, climber

Born: 9/5/1965

Member of MC "Spartak" Subotica

Expeditions: Ararat (2000) Kavkaz (2001) Aconcagua (2004) Shisha Pangma (2004) Mount Everest (2005)

Goran Ferlan, climber

Born: 3/5/1963

Member of MC "Borkovac", Ruma

Expeditions: Aconcagua (1996) Montblanch (1997) Co Oju (1998) Ama Dablam (1999) Mount Everest (2000) Ararat (2001) Kilimanjaro (2002) Barunze (2003) Shisha Pangma (2004) Mount Everest

(2005)

Mirko Kujundzic, climber

Member of MC "Spartak" Subotica

Expeditions: This is his first expedition.

Miso Nikolic, climber,

Member of MC "Vilina vodica" Bukovac

Expeditions: Kavkaz (2005)

Miodrag Jovovic, organizer

Born: 5/1/1952

Member of MC "Zeleznicar" Novi Sad

Expeditions: Kavkaz (1996) Mount Blanc (1997) Island Peak (1998) Barunze (2003) Shisha Pangma (2004) Mount Everest (2005)

Update:   ASKOLI - After 10 hours jolting in prehistoric jeeps which squawk on 40% ascent we arrived on "the end of the world". We have 5 tones of equipment and 130 carriers from Chunze-tribe. Oxygen will arrive via Islamabad. Or will not, who knows. We are 8 days on the way and we are on the beginning yet. It is our first night in tents.  There are many days of  plod  footing in advance of us. There are many sharp crests over this gloomy dale. All of them are some 7000 m but our goals (G-1 & G-2) we could not see in perspective yet. Our stomachs are well now and we are in good mood.

ISLAMABAD 07.06.2006. 3.oo AM (LT)  It is midnight in Serbia now.   People from assistance-agency meet us. They are very nice and kindly.   Transport to the hotel across empty streets of Islamabad without any   problems. After some hours for sleeping (+40 C) we received   approvals of competent Pakistan's administration.  They said to us:   what is our ecology-obligation, how we should behave in mountain,   what to do in emergency-cases...   Tomorrow we will go to Rawalpindi to buy alpine-gear.  Sky over Islamabad is black. Wind is so gorgeous that the send is   all over the town.   In this moment we check contacts with Serbia, families, friends and   all the people who are with us in their minds. It is OK for now.  

ISLAMABAD 08.06.2006. 17.39 (local time).     Tomorrow at 6.oo AM (local time) we will proceed to Karakorum.   Now  we have to market in town where offer is so poor and very   expensive. Packing is one problem more - all the packages somebody   must carry to BC (Base Camp) on his shoulder. It costs $110 for one   carrier. Perhaps more. But we have "equipage" - for two months and   two peaks (we hope, God help us). There are gear for six men and   for mountain-pilots. After that, there are kitchen-kit, accessories   for organizer, for Pakistan's State-officer... To much!   Luckily Pakistan people are kindly and helpfully.   This morning  we refunded  assurance (helicopter) and we are ready   to start.   Serbia-Karakorum Team 

Background: 2. Country: Serbia (Province: Vojvodina, Cities: Novi Sad&Subotica)

3. Name of the Leader: Milivoj Erdeljan

4. Name of the Peak: Gasherbrum-1 and Gasherbrum-2

5. Arrival Date: 13/06/2006.

6. No of participants: 05

No one from expedition from Serbia was not trying to climb two peaks over 8.000 m just in one year. Project "Serbia-KaraKorum" made of five (5) climbers which goal is two (2) peacks over 8.000 m. They planed to climb Gasherbrum 1 (8.068) and Gasherbrum 2 (8.035). Project "Serbia-Karakorum" start at June 5th and will be ended at August 19th 2006.

This team of climbers in past time summit:

2003 - KIlimanjaro (5.896) and Barunze (7.129),

2004 - Shisha Pangma (8.012) and

2005 - Mount Everest  (8.848). 

(All climbers are from Serbian province Vojvodina, northern part of Serbia where the highest mountain is Fruska Gora - 539 m).

ITINERARY: Gasherbrum 1 (8.068m) and Gasherbrum 2 (8.035m) 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar. Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

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