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  Gasherbrum 2006: SERBIA - KARAKORUM: Alive! and Summits!


 

Update 8/3/2006: 02/08/2006 - BC GASHERBRUM-KARAKORUM

Yesterday evening (01/08) Iso Planic arrived to the BC - he is alive and healthy! Except some pain in his neck. Climbing to the G-1 peak was 11 hours long - 7 hours across "Japanese couloir" and there is 60% incline without flat place for some rest. Iso had two cameras with himself and he made a lot of photos and videos.

Iso Planic's return was 7 hours long. All details will be accessible when we come home, to Serbia. Next 4 days we will packing for home-coming. Our equipment is preserved mostly. If we have some damage, we will see later.

Big regards, Milivoj Erdeljan,

leader of Serbia-Karakorum team

FLAGS OF SERBIA ON G1 AND G2!!!

31.07.2006. Gasherbrum BC -Karakorum - Around 11.30 a.m. local time (8.30. a.m. SE), ISO PLANIC, our main climber, summeted G1 (8068m), together with three Korean climbers and three altitude carriers (Sherpa). During the climb they were followed by high winds and a lot of clouds, but we hope they will return in the course of the day to C2 successfully. We have fulfilled our climbing plan for this year, folks - G1 and G2! We're waiting for Iso and then leaving for Serbia. Thanks for your support. We'll be in touch. M.Erdeljan

Update 7/26/2006: It is the latest news from Karakorum:

WE ARE WAITING FOR KOREAN CLIMBERS

26/07/2006. - Report from Base Camp:

All of us are well except one of altitude climbers.

He got pneumonia maybe.

Some days ago we bring equipage to C-1 (tents, ropes-500 m, torches, gas, food...) Iso Planic put 100 m of fixed ropes to the G-1 peak. All expeditions are in BC in this moment. They are waiting for quit of situation on G-2. The news are bad unfortunately.

Korean boys are resting after summit G-2.

On the beginning we made agreement with them that they will safeguard "Japanese corridor" and we will safeguard 300 m from C-3 toward G-1. We have to wait for them because we can not do it alone without Goran Ferlan and one altitude climber. Our decision is: we will not go to the peak G-1 alone because it is too risky and too intense. This decision was affirmed of PSSV (Assossiation of Serbian and Voivodinean climbers). Luckily Goran Ferlan arrived to Serbia.

Earlier: 14/07/06 - After Iso Planic and Goran Ferlan summit G-2 (8035 m) they came to the C-2 (6.500). It was stormy night between July 12th/13th. Sadik and Said (Pakistan altitude carriers) were with them. They could not sleep because of rough wind who treated to remove all the tents.

In the morning  they have to go to C-1 (5.900 m) and  BC away if it be possible. Fix-ropes were under the snow and they couldn't find them. They have to go linked (alpine-style).

Two days ago was hot and situation on glacier was dramatically changed. All the glacier was moved-on and there were many of new crack in it. From C-2 to C-1  they overpassed in 6 hours but in normal situation it can be in 90 minutes.

Four of them have to trail over the glacier because of new cracks in ice. When they arrived in C-1 they spend one and half hour more in tent-searching because of snow-storm.

From C-1 to BC outlasted 7 hours of crowl and aberration in snow-storm. All of them, repeat, ALL OF THEM, failled down in  some kind of cracks. But the most fortunate was Goran Ferlan - he failed down in  crack 30 meters deep. Three of them removed him after 1 hour of trying.  Goran was lucky and in good psycho-corporal  condition  - he hadn't broke nothing  on his body.

14/07/06 - BC

This morning all of us are in BC. Whole the camp is under snow-drifts.

All of us are well and healthy. Others expeditions (here in BC) abandon his planes. Almost no one will climb the both peaks. Except "The Crazy Serbs". And Korean tem too.

But where we could go while snow is everywhere around?.

18/07/06-KARAKORUM (BC-5100m)

It was meeting of all members Serbia-Karakorum Team yesterday. We have to call our chief-organizer. After that we made an arrangement – Goran Ferlan have to return in Serbia because of pains in his shoulder (spine) after he failed down in ice-crack (it was on the July 13th, when he returned from G-2).

We hoped that his recovery is possible here in BC with  medicine we have. But it isn't. And  he could not climb on G-1, so it is better for him to go home in Serbia where he will get good and real care.

Two of us will follow Goran on his travel.

Rest of us should try to find accessories in C-2 and C-3 (there are 5 North-Face-tents; without them we will have difficulties with plane of G-1 climbing).

All of us here in BC are well. Except two Sadik and Said (altitude carriers who were with our boys on G-2). They have some problems with chiblains and snow-blindness.

But we decided: We shall climb G-1!!! With Korean-team, together.

Thanks to all for maintenance.

Milivoj Erdeljan-leader of Serbia-Karakorum team

Update 7/13/2006:  Hello EverestNews.com, PLANIC AND FERLAN ON G-1!

12/07/06 - This morning at 7.15 (LT) two Serbian climbers, Iso Planic and Goran Ferlan, members of Vojvodinean expedition "Karakorum 2006" climb Gasherbrum-1 (8035 m) in massif of Karakorum in Pakistan. In this moment Planic and Ferlan are in C-3 (7.300 m). Next night and day they will  continue  to descend to the Base Camp. G-1 was one part of our project for this year. Next goal is G-2 (8.068 m) which we should to overrun this season. Rest of team is in BC.

Update 7/12/2006: PLANIC AND FERLAN ON G-2!

This morning at 7.15 AM (LT) Iso Planic and Goran Ferlan arrived on Gasherbrum-2 (8035 m). Two altitude climbers were with them to the peak. [If we follow, we assume they are saying they summited.] Weather was windy and cloudy. In BC we are waiting for their return with impatience because of weather. Thank Hanif for forecast, thank to all of you for your prayer and encourages  in your e-mail. M.Erdeljan, leader of the team

Update 7/11/2006:  Serbia-Karakorum update

MOVING UP!

10/07/06 - Two of us, Iso Planic and Goran Ferlan, with two altitude climbers, arrived in C-2 (6400 m). In case of propitiatory of weather they will go on to  Gasherbrum-2 which is one of our goals this year. Good luck boys! Milivoj Erdeljan 

Update: Here is the latest news:

WE ARE READY! 06/07/06 BC Today we finished all  arrangement for climbing on G-2. Our recent altitude camp (C-3) is on 7200 m. We are waiting for propitiatory of weather - it must be long enough to climb up and safe return of the peak. Until now it was all  by  program. Unless avalanche which was falling down on altitude camps but we had no  damages. Most important in this moment: all of us endure the height and we are healthy. Milivoj Erdeljan

Update: With Korean team we are working on safeguard of the road to Gasherbrum 2 (G-2). Weather is  unstable but we observe forecasts. Best regards to our families. And to friends all around the world. Milivoj Erdeljan, leader of the team

Update 7/2/06 C-1 (5900 m)  This morning we arrived in C-1 (first altitude camp).  Hard snow began at highnoon.  We are waiting. When the snow stop we will go back down in BC. Milivoj Erdeljan, leader

Update: 28/6/06  - 6.00 am (LT) C-1 (5.900 m). Last night 50 cm of new snow was falling down. It is very cloudy here.

We are going back to BC. M. Erdeljan, leader of the team

Update: 6/23/2006      Today we installed C-1  on 5.900 m. This is our base for  both upsurges, G-1 and G-2.  Overshot across south  glacier Gasherbrum  dictated  installation of fix ropes and link-climbing because of many cracks. The glacier we overpassed overnight.      M. Jovovic, organizer

     6/27/2006:  Today we  came to the C-1 (5.900 m) again. We spend 6 hours on this way.      In this moment clouds are falling down from Gasherbrum peaks.      Tomorrow we will going to C-2 (6.400 m) to put fix ropes.     Yesterday we got oxygen.          Milivoj Erdeljan, ledaer of the team

Update 6/22/2006: 6/22/06 BC (5050m)

  - We are in BC finally. After 7 days of footing and 1 day of rest   we arrived yesterday. All of us are well and enduring of high is good. During the footing we were burning of the sun.   All of equipment was arrived too. Food is excellent, much better than in Nepal.   Assistance is unbelievable - to the BC we have had convoy of 170 carriers  which went back. Now there are 13 of us.

Next 3 days we will arrange and assort BC. After that we start further.  Best wishes to all, Miodrag Jovovic, organizer of Serbia Karakorum team

Update 6/18/2006: We arrived in Urdukas (4300 m). All of us are well. Weather is sunny and to hot. Tomorrow we continue to BC. Say hello to all in Serbia.

There are some details about members of Serbia-Karakorum team.

Milivoj Erdeljan, climber, leader of the team

Born: 9/21/1964

Member of MC (Mountaineer club) "Zanatlija", Novi Sad.

Expeditions: Kavkaz (1989), Ararat (2001) Mt. Kilimanjaro (2002) Barunze (2003) Shisha Pangma (2004) Mount Everest (2005)

Iso Planic, climber

Born: 9/5/1965

Member of MC "Spartak" Subotica

Expeditions: Ararat (2000) Kavkaz (2001) Aconcagua (2004) Shisha Pangma (2004) Mount Everest (2005)

Goran Ferlan, climber

Born: 3/5/1963

Member of MC "Borkovac", Ruma

Expeditions: Aconcagua (1996) Montblanch (1997) Co Oju (1998) Ama Dablam (1999) Mount Everest (2000) Ararat (2001) Kilimanjaro (2002) Barunze (2003) Shisha Pangma (2004) Mount Everest

(2005)

Mirko Kujundzic, climber

Member of MC "Spartak" Subotica

Expeditions: This is his first expedition.

Miso Nikolic, climber,

Member of MC "Vilina vodica" Bukovac

Expeditions: Kavkaz (2005)

Miodrag Jovovic, organizer

Born: 5/1/1952

Member of MC "Zeleznicar" Novi Sad

Expeditions: Kavkaz (1996) Mount Blanc (1997) Island Peak (1998) Barunze (2003) Shisha Pangma (2004) Mount Everest (2005)

Update:   ASKOLI - After 10 hours jolting in prehistoric jeeps which squawk on 40% ascent we arrived on "the end of the world". We have 5 tones of equipment and 130 carriers from Chunze-tribe. Oxygen will arrive via Islamabad. Or will not, who knows. We are 8 days on the way and we are on the beginning yet. It is our first night in tents.  There are many days of  plod  footing in advance of us. There are many sharp crests over this gloomy dale. All of them are some 7000 m but our goals (G-1 & G-2) we could not see in perspective yet. Our stomachs are well now and we are in good mood.

ISLAMABAD 07.06.2006. 3.oo AM (LT)  It is midnight in Serbia now.   People from assistance-agency meet us. They are very nice and kindly.   Transport to the hotel across empty streets of Islamabad without any   problems. After some hours for sleeping (+40 C) we received   approvals of competent Pakistan's administration.  They said to us:   what is our ecology-obligation, how we should behave in mountain,   what to do in emergency-cases...   Tomorrow we will go to Rawalpindi to buy alpine-gear.  Sky over Islamabad is black. Wind is so gorgeous that the send is   all over the town.   In this moment we check contacts with Serbia, families, friends and   all the people who are with us in their minds. It is OK for now.  

ISLAMABAD 08.06.2006. 17.39 (local time).     Tomorrow at 6.oo AM (local time) we will proceed to Karakorum.   Now  we have to market in town where offer is so poor and very   expensive. Packing is one problem more - all the packages somebody   must carry to BC (Base Camp) on his shoulder. It costs $110 for one   carrier. Perhaps more. But we have "equipage" - for two months and   two peaks (we hope, God help us). There are gear for six men and   for mountain-pilots. After that, there are kitchen-kit, accessories   for organizer, for Pakistan's State-officer... To much!   Luckily Pakistan people are kindly and helpfully.   This morning  we refunded  assurance (helicopter) and we are ready   to start.   Serbia-Karakorum Team 

Background: 2. Country: Serbia (Province: Vojvodina, Cities: Novi Sad&Subotica)

3. Name of the Leader: Milivoj Erdeljan

4. Name of the Peak: Gasherbrum-1 and Gasherbrum-2

5. Arrival Date: 13/06/2006.

6. No of participants: 05

No one from expedition from Serbia was not trying to climb two peaks over 8.000 m just in one year. Project "Serbia-KaraKorum" made of five (5) climbers which goal is two (2) peacks over 8.000 m. They planed to climb Gasherbrum 1 (8.068) and Gasherbrum 2 (8.035). Project "Serbia-Karakorum" start at June 5th and will be ended at August 19th 2006.

This team of climbers in past time summit:

2003 - KIlimanjaro (5.896) and Barunze (7.129),

2004 - Shisha Pangma (8.012) and

2005 - Mount Everest  (8.848). 

(All climbers are from Serbian province Vojvodina, northern part of Serbia where the highest mountain is Fruska Gora - 539 m).

ITINERARY: Gasherbrum 1 (8.068m) and Gasherbrum 2 (8.035m) 

5.6.2006.

Day 01

Fly Belgrade-Dubai

6.6.2006.

Day 02

Fly Dubai- Islamabad

7.6.2006.

Day 03

Islamabad

8.6.2006.

Day 04

Islamabad

9.6.2006.

Day 05

Islamabad; Briefing at Ministry of Tourism.

10.6.2006.

Day 06

Drive to  Chilas (480 km)

11.6.2006.

Day 07

Drive to Skardu (275 km)

12.6.2006.

Day 08

Rest at Skardu .

13.6.2006.

Day 09

Drive to Askole (3.000 m) (96 km)

14.6.2006.

Day 10

Trek to Jhola (3.200 m) (8 hrs)

15.6.2006.

Day 11

Trek to Paiyu (3.600 m) (6 hrs)

16.6.2006.

Day 12

Rest at Paiyu (3.600 m)

17.6.2006.

Day 13

Trek to Khuburtze (4.000 m)  (3 hrs)

18.6.2006.

Day 14

Trek to Urdukas (4.200 m) (3 hrs)

19.6.2006.

Day 15

Trek to Goro II (4.500 m) (7 hrs)

20.6.2006.

 Day 16

Trek to Concordia (4.700 m) (6 hrs)

21.6.2006.

 Day 17

Trek to G-I/G-II Base Camp (5.045m) (8 hrs)

22.6./10.8.2006.

Day18/67

Climbing G -1
C-1 (5.900 m);

C-2 (6.500 m);

C-3 (7.300 m).

climbing G - 2

C-1 (5.900 m);
C-2 (6.400 m);
C-3 (7.200 m).

11.8.2006.

Day 68

Trek to Vigne Glacier (4.800 m) (6 hrs)

12.8.2006.

Day 69

Trek to Gondogoro-La (5.680m) / Khuspan (4.680m) (9 hrs)

13.8.2006.

Day 70

Trek to Shaieshcho (3.600 m) / Hushe (3.300 m) (9 hrs)

14.8.2006.

Day 71

Drive to Skardu (2.340 m)

15.8.2006.

Day 72

Drive to Islamabad / Chilas

16.8.2006.

Day 73

Islamabad

17.8.2006.

Day 74

Islamabad; De-briefing at Ministry of Tourism.

18.8.2006.

Day 75

Fly Out; Transfer to airport for your return flight home.

19.8.2006.

Day 76

Belgrade

 

 

 

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