
Update 8/07/2006": RETURN TO CIVILIZATION
BC Gasherbrum-KARAKORUM: Carriers for return to civilization came this morning about 9.30 am (LT) It
was just by plan and agreement. We were rejoiced because here is a lot of
scrimmage on Baltoro-glacier. Many expeditions are packing and returning in the
same time. We are ready for home-coming and wistful for dear faces in Serbia.
When we'll arrive to Serbia, it will be time for some rest and relax. It was
enough for this year, folks! At August 9th we will be in Skardu but in Islamabad
some days later. On Belgrade airport we ought to be on August 19th. M. Erdeljan
Update 8/3/2006: 02/08/2006 - BC GASHERBRUM-KARAKORUM
Yesterday evening (01/08) Iso Planic arrived to the BC - he is alive and healthy! Except some pain in his neck. Climbing to the G-1 peak was 11 hours long - 7 hours across "Japanese couloir" and there is 60% incline without flat place for some rest. Iso had two cameras with himself and he made a lot of photos and videos.
Iso Planic's return was 7 hours long. All details will be accessible when we come home, to Serbia. Next 4 days we will packing for home-coming. Our equipment is preserved mostly. If we have some damage, we will see
later.
Big regards, Milivoj Erdeljan,
leader of Serbia-Karakorum team
FLAGS OF SERBIA ON G1 AND G2!!!
31.07.2006. Gasherbrum BC -Karakorum - Around 11.30 a.m. local time
(8.30. a.m. SE), ISO PLANIC, our main climber, summeted G1 (8068m), together
with three Korean climbers and three altitude carriers (Sherpa). During the
climb they were followed by high winds and a lot of clouds, but we hope they
will return in the course of the day to C2 successfully. We have fulfilled
our climbing plan for this year, folks - G1 and G2! We're waiting for Iso
and then leaving for Serbia. Thanks for your support. We'll be in touch.
M.Erdeljan
Update 7/26/2006: It is the latest news from Karakorum:
WE ARE WAITING FOR KOREAN CLIMBERS
26/07/2006. - Report from Base Camp:
All of us are well except one of altitude climbers.
He got pneumonia maybe.
Some days ago we bring equipage
to C-1 (tents, ropes-500 m, torches, gas, food...) Iso Planic put 100 m of fixed
ropes to the G-1 peak. All expeditions are in BC in this moment. They are
waiting for quit of situation on G-2. The news are bad unfortunately.
Korean boys are resting after summit G-2.
On the beginning we made agreement with them
that they will safeguard
"Japanese corridor" and we will safeguard 300 m from C-3 toward G-1. We have to
wait for them because we can not do it alone without Goran Ferlan and one
altitude climber. Our decision is: we will not go to the peak G-1 alone because
it is too risky and too intense. This decision was affirmed of PSSV (Assossiation
of Serbian and Voivodinean climbers). Luckily Goran Ferlan arrived to Serbia.
Earlier: 14/07/06 - After Iso Planic
and Goran Ferlan summit G-2 (8035 m) they came to the C-2 (6.500). It was
stormy night between July 12th/13th. Sadik and Said (Pakistan altitude
carriers) were with them. They could not sleep because of rough wind who
treated to remove all the tents.
In the morning they have to
go to C-1 (5.900 m) and BC away if it be possible. Fix-ropes were under the
snow and they couldn't find them. They have to go linked (alpine-style).
Two days ago was hot and
situation on glacier was dramatically changed. All the glacier was moved-on
and there were many of new crack in it. From C-2 to C-1 they overpassed in 6
hours but in normal situation it can be in 90 minutes.
Four of them have to trail
over the glacier because of new cracks in ice. When they arrived in C-1 they
spend one and half hour more in tent-searching because of snow-storm.
From C-1 to BC outlasted 7
hours of crowl and aberration in snow-storm. All of them, repeat, ALL OF THEM,
failled down in some kind of cracks. But the most fortunate was Goran Ferlan
- he failed down in crack 30 meters deep. Three of them removed him after 1
hour of trying. Goran was lucky and in good psycho-corporal condition - he
hadn't broke nothing on his body.
14/07/06 - BC
This morning all of us are in
BC. Whole the camp is under snow-drifts.
All of us are well and
healthy. Others expeditions (here in BC) abandon his planes. Almost no one
will climb the both peaks. Except "The Crazy Serbs". And Korean tem too.
But where we could go while
snow is everywhere around?.
18/07/06-KARAKORUM (BC-5100m)
It was meeting of all members
Serbia-Karakorum Team yesterday. We have to call our chief-organizer. After
that we made an arrangement – Goran Ferlan have to return in Serbia because of
pains in his shoulder (spine) after he failed down in ice-crack (it was on the
July 13th, when he returned from G-2).
We hoped that his recovery is
possible here in BC with medicine we have. But it isn't. And he could not
climb on G-1, so it is better for him to go home in Serbia where he will get
good and real care.
Two of us will follow Goran
on his travel.
Rest of us should try to find
accessories in C-2 and C-3 (there are 5 North-Face-tents; without them we will
have difficulties with plane of G-1 climbing).
All of us here in BC are
well. Except two Sadik and Said (altitude carriers who were with our boys on
G-2). They have some problems with chiblains and snow-blindness.
But we decided: We shall
climb G-1!!! With Korean-team, together.
Thanks to all for
maintenance.
Milivoj Erdeljan-leader of
Serbia-Karakorum team
Update 7/13/2006: Hello
EverestNews.com, PLANIC AND FERLAN ON G-1!
12/07/06 - This morning at
7.15 (LT) two Serbian climbers, Iso Planic and Goran Ferlan, members of
Vojvodinean expedition "Karakorum 2006" climb Gasherbrum-1 (8035 m) in massif
of Karakorum in Pakistan. In this moment Planic and Ferlan are in C-3 (7.300
m). Next night and day they will continue to descend to the Base Camp. G-1
was one part of our project for this year. Next goal is G-2 (8.068 m) which we
should to overrun this season. Rest of team is in BC.
Update 7/12/2006: PLANIC AND
FERLAN ON G-2!
This morning at 7.15 AM (LT)
Iso Planic and Goran Ferlan arrived on Gasherbrum-2 (8035 m). Two altitude
climbers were with them to the peak. [If we follow, we assume they are saying they summited.]
Weather was windy and cloudy. In BC we are waiting for their return with
impatience because of weather. Thank Hanif for forecast, thank to all of you
for your prayer and encourages in your e-mail. M.Erdeljan, leader of the team
Update 7/11/2006: Serbia-Karakorum update
MOVING UP!
10/07/06 - Two of us, Iso Planic and Goran Ferlan, with
two altitude climbers, arrived in C-2 (6400 m). In case of
propitiatory of weather they will go on to Gasherbrum-2 which is one of our
goals this year. Good luck boys! Milivoj Erdeljan
Update: Here is the latest
news:
WE ARE READY! 06/07/06 BC Today we finished all arrangement for climbing
on G-2. Our recent altitude camp (C-3) is on 7200 m. We are waiting for
propitiatory of weather - it must be long enough to climb up and safe return
of the peak. Until now it was all by program. Unless avalanche
which was falling down on altitude camps but we had no damages. Most
important in this moment: all of us endure the height and we are
healthy. Milivoj Erdeljan
Update: With Korean team we
are working on safeguard of the road to Gasherbrum 2 (G-2). Weather is
unstable but we observe forecasts. Best regards to our families. And to
friends all around the world. Milivoj Erdeljan, leader of the team
Update 7/2/06 C-1 (5900 m)
This morning we arrived in C-1 (first altitude camp). Hard snow began at
highnoon. We are waiting. When the snow stop we will go back down in BC.
Milivoj Erdeljan, leader
Update: 28/6/06 - 6.00 am (LT) C-1 (5.900 m). Last night 50 cm of new snow was falling down. It is
very cloudy here.
We are going back to BC. M. Erdeljan,
leader of the team
Update: 6/23/2006 Today we
installed C-1 on 5.900 m. This is our base for both upsurges, G-1 and G-2.
Overshot across south glacier Gasherbrum dictated installation of fix ropes
and link-climbing because of many cracks. The glacier we overpassed overnight.
M. Jovovic, organizer
6/27/2006: Today
we came to the C-1 (5.900 m) again. We spend 6 hours on this way. In
this moment clouds are falling down from Gasherbrum peaks. Tomorrow we
will going to C-2 (6.400 m) to put fix ropes. Yesterday we got oxygen.
Milivoj Erdeljan, ledaer of the team
Update 6/22/2006: 6/22/06 BC
(5050m)
- We are in BC finally.
After 7 days of footing and 1 day of rest we arrived yesterday. All of us
are well and enduring of high is good. During the footing we were burning of
the sun. All of equipment was arrived too. Food is excellent, much better
than in Nepal. Assistance is unbelievable - to the BC we have had convoy of
170 carriers which went back. Now there are 13 of us.
Next 3 days we will arrange
and assort BC. After that we start further. Best wishes to all, Miodrag
Jovovic, organizer of Serbia Karakorum team
Update 6/18/2006: We arrived
in Urdukas (4300 m). All of us are well. Weather is sunny and to hot. Tomorrow
we continue to BC. Say hello to all in Serbia.
There are some details about
members of Serbia-Karakorum team.
Milivoj Erdeljan, climber,
leader of the team
Born: 9/21/1964
Member of MC (Mountaineer
club) "Zanatlija", Novi Sad.
Expeditions: Kavkaz (1989),
Ararat (2001) Mt. Kilimanjaro (2002) Barunze (2003) Shisha Pangma (2004) Mount
Everest (2005)
Iso Planic, climber
Born: 9/5/1965
Member of MC "Spartak"
Subotica
Expeditions: Ararat (2000)
Kavkaz (2001) Aconcagua (2004) Shisha Pangma (2004) Mount Everest (2005)
Goran Ferlan, climber
Born: 3/5/1963
Member of MC "Borkovac", Ruma
Expeditions: Aconcagua (1996)
Montblanch (1997) Co Oju (1998) Ama Dablam (1999) Mount Everest (2000) Ararat
(2001) Kilimanjaro (2002) Barunze (2003) Shisha Pangma (2004) Mount Everest
(2005)
Mirko Kujundzic, climber
Member of MC "Spartak"
Subotica
Expeditions: This is his
first expedition.
Miso Nikolic, climber,
Member of MC "Vilina vodica"
Bukovac
Expeditions: Kavkaz (2005)
Miodrag Jovovic, organizer
Born: 5/1/1952
Member of MC "Zeleznicar"
Novi Sad
Expeditions: Kavkaz (1996)
Mount Blanc (1997) Island Peak (1998) Barunze (2003) Shisha Pangma (2004)
Mount Everest (2005)
Update: ASKOLI -
After 10 hours jolting in prehistoric jeeps which squawk on 40% ascent we
arrived on "the end of the world". We have 5 tones of equipment and 130
carriers from Chunze-tribe. Oxygen will arrive via Islamabad. Or will not, who
knows. We are 8 days on the way and we are on the beginning yet. It is our
first night in tents. There are many days of plod footing in advance of us.
There are many sharp crests over this gloomy dale. All of them are some 7000 m
but our goals (G-1 & G-2) we could not see in perspective yet. Our stomachs
are well now and we are in good mood.
ISLAMABAD 07.06.2006. 3.oo AM
(LT) It is midnight in Serbia now. People from assistance-agency meet
us. They are very nice and kindly. Transport to the hotel across empty
streets of Islamabad without any problems. After some hours for sleeping
(+40 C) we received approvals of competent Pakistan's administration. They
said to us: what is our ecology-obligation, how we should behave in
mountain, what to do in emergency-cases... Tomorrow we will go to
Rawalpindi to buy alpine-gear. Sky over Islamabad is black. Wind is so
gorgeous that the send is all over the town. In this moment we check
contacts with Serbia, families, friends and all the people who are with us
in their minds. It is OK for now.
ISLAMABAD 08.06.2006. 17.39
(local time). Tomorrow at 6.oo AM (local time) we will proceed to
Karakorum. Now we have to market in town where offer is so poor and very
expensive. Packing is one problem more - all the packages somebody must
carry to BC (Base Camp) on his shoulder. It costs $110 for one carrier.
Perhaps more. But we have "equipage" - for two months and two peaks (we
hope, God help us). There are gear for six men and for mountain-pilots.
After that, there are kitchen-kit, accessories for organizer, for Pakistan's
State-officer... To much! Luckily Pakistan people are kindly and helpfully.
This morning we refunded assurance (helicopter) and we are ready to
start. Serbia-Karakorum Team
Background: 2. Country: Serbia (Province:
Vojvodina, Cities: Novi Sad&Subotica)
3. Name of the Leader:
Milivoj Erdeljan
4. Name of the Peak:
Gasherbrum-1 and Gasherbrum-2
5. Arrival Date: 13/06/2006.
6. No of participants: 05
No one from expedition from
Serbia was not trying to climb two peaks over 8.000 m just in one year.
Project "Serbia-KaraKorum" made of five (5) climbers which goal is two (2)
peacks over 8.000 m. They planed to climb Gasherbrum 1 (8.068) and Gasherbrum
2 (8.035). Project "Serbia-Karakorum" start at June 5th and will be ended at
August 19th 2006.
This team of climbers in past
time summit:
2003 - KIlimanjaro (5.896)
and Barunze (7.129),
2004 - Shisha Pangma (8.012)
and
2005 - Mount Everest
(8.848).
(All climbers are from
Serbian province Vojvodina, northern part of Serbia where the highest mountain
is Fruska Gora - 539 m).
ITINERARY: Gasherbrum 1
(8.068m) and Gasherbrum 2 (8.035m)
5.6.2006. |
Day 01 |
Fly Belgrade-Dubai |
6.6.2006. |
Day 02 |
Fly Dubai- Islamabad |
7.6.2006. |
Day 03 |
Islamabad |
8.6.2006. |
Day 04 |
Islamabad |
9.6.2006. |
Day 05 |
Islamabad; Briefing at
Ministry of Tourism. |
10.6.2006. |
Day 06 |
Drive to Chilas (480 km) |
11.6.2006. |
Day 07 |
Drive to Skardu (275 km) |
12.6.2006. |
Day 08 |
Rest at Skardu . |
13.6.2006. |
Day 09 |
Drive to Askole (3.000 m)
(96 km) |
14.6.2006. |
Day 10 |
Trek to Jhola (3.200 m) (8
hrs) |
15.6.2006. |
Day 11 |
Trek to Paiyu (3.600 m) (6
hrs) |
16.6.2006. |
Day 12 |
Rest at Paiyu (3.600 m) |
17.6.2006. |
Day 13 |
Trek to Khuburtze (4.000
m) (3 hrs) |
18.6.2006. |
Day 14 |
Trek to Urdukas (4.200 m)
(3 hrs) |
19.6.2006. |
Day 15 |
Trek to Goro II (4.500 m)
(7 hrs) |
20.6.2006. |
Day
16 |
Trek to Concordia (4.700
m) (6 hrs) |
21.6.2006. |
Day 17 |
Trek to G-I/G-II Base Camp
(5.045m) (8 hrs) |
22.6./10.8.2006. |
Day18/67 |
Climbing G -1
C-1 (5.900 m);
C-2 (6.500 m);
C-3 (7.300 m).
climbing G - 2
C-1 (5.900 m);
C-2 (6.400 m);
C-3 (7.200 m). |
11.8.2006. |
Day 68 |
Trek to Vigne Glacier
(4.800 m) (6 hrs) |
12.8.2006. |
Day 69 |
Trek to Gondogoro-La
(5.680m) / Khuspan (4.680m) (9 hrs) |
13.8.2006. |
Day 70 |
Trek to Shaieshcho (3.600
m) / Hushe (3.300 m) (9 hrs) |
14.8.2006. |
Day 71 |
Drive to Skardu (2.340 m) |
15.8.2006. |
Day 72 |
Drive to Islamabad /
Chilas |
16.8.2006. |
Day 73 |
Islamabad |
17.8.2006. |
Day 74 |
Islamabad; De-briefing at
Ministry of Tourism. |
18.8.2006. |
Day 75 |
Fly Out; Transfer to
airport for your return flight home. |
19.8.2006. |
Day 76 |
Belgrade |
 |
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