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  Broad Peak 2007: Serbia - Pakistan joint Broad Peak expedition 2007 Summits on the 12th


12/7/2007 – BC, 4.00 pm (LT)

At 2.00 pm (LT) our climbers were on the top of Broad Peak!

There are Iso Planic, Dren Mandic and two of carriers Sadik and Hasan. I have heard them very bad because of wind which was 100 km/h on the top. Pedja was not with them I will try to find details later.

In this moment Iso, Dren, Sadik and Hasan are on 7.700 m and they will be in C3 for 2-3 hours. M. Erdeljan

10/07/2007 – BC (12.00 am LT)

Vlado and Pedja with high carriers are near C2 and very soon they will accompany to Iso and Dren. Our boys in C2 had problems with their tents because of snow and ice.  There are many of expeditions who were start up to the mountain (Italians, Spanians, Germans and the others). We hope that all of us can override the snow near peak much easier if we are together. We are well. Best regards, Milivoj.

09/07/2007 – BC (08.00 pm)

Sky is clear and it is not so cold. Iso and Dren came to C2 after 8 hours of climbing. Tomorrow early in the morning Vlado and Pedja will start up with carriears and remnant of equipage. We hope some climbers from others expeditions will start with them so it will be much easier to override snow from C3 and peak. Best regards to all. Milivoj.

09/07/2007- BC (6.00 am)

After clear and cold night early in the morning Iso and Dren started up from BC to  the peak. They were first and after them started and the others (circa 10 climbers from different expeditions) . Pedja and Vlado will start up tomorrow.

Forecast for next 3-4 days is good, usefully for climbing, same in every of teams here.

It is sunny and warm here in BC. It is our third attempt to summit the peak. We pray that this time will be successful. Best regards, Milivoj and Pedja.

08/07/2007 /- BC (8.00 pm - LT)

Snow was stopped, it is partially clear, N-wind and -10° C. We are waiting forecast for next days. We hope that will be 3-4 good days at least. Best regards, Iso.

08/07/2007 – BC (6.00 am - Serbian time)

It was strong wind and snow all the night.  Almost we are snowbound here in the camp. All of expeditions are in their tents. As we have heard weather in all of Karakorum is very bad. On G-I is C1 only. Nanga Parbat is the same. Nobody summits K-2 this season. There are overflows in south of Pakistan… In one word – it is awfully.

However - we are waiting. Milivoj 

07/07/2007 – BC

All of us are in BC waiting favorably weather. Today we will try to make some agreement for climbing together on Monday morning. Forecast is: The window will be open to Wednesday. We’ll try to use it together. On 7300-7700 m snow is about 4 feet.

Best regards, Iso Planic

06/07/2007 / BC

It was snow during las night. Weather is cloudly on 6.000-7.000 m. BC is full of expeditions. We are discussing with the others climbed icy rocks around. Meantime we are negotiating collective summit if - and when -  the Weather and Mountain allow us.

We are well and sane. Milivoj

Update: Broad Peak 2007. Update

BC- 27.06.2007.

All members of our expedition are in BC, they are well and ready for climbing.

It is sunny day here. New expeditions are arriving every day. Anybody is not in the mountain over C2. Here in BC nobody hasn’t forecast or nobody will not to share it. Owing to Everestnews.com we have it.

Best wishes, Iso Planic, climber 

BC-26.06.2007.

It is rainy and cold here in BC. In C2 (6200 m) is snowy and climbers have to come back. Nothing of climbing this week. We have to wait for now. It is anyone in the mountain. 

BC, 25.06.2007.

At 12.00 Am (LT) all of our climbers (there are 4 of them) arrived in C2 without problems. They will start to C3 tomorrow early in the morning. It is the plane. But if they make agreement with the others (Russian, German…) they will have some rest in C2. Russian climbers tried to summit peak twice without results. All of high-camps are ready and all of equipment are there.

Best regards

M. Erdeljan, leader of expedition

Earlier Update: BC:  Thanks to Hanif and our friends in Serbia we got forecast which anticipate good weather. Climbers started to C-1. They will tray to summit Broad Peak in next few days. All of us are OK and ready for next labors. We hope and pray for good will of Mountain’s Mother to allow us to our goal.  

22.06.2007. – BC: C-2 was installed, ropes, tents and equipment are there. Our boys just came back in BC.

Many expeditions arrived here; they are ready for peaks around. We have contacts with some of them to preparing planes for next year and climbing K-2. Still we have problems with internet connection so we have problems with weather forecast too. All of us are well and ready for climbing.

Earlier: After 4 days snow fall is stopped. Temperature is growing up and we hope proceed to the peak very soon.

Luckily, new dynamo is here, batteries are charging and we will be ready to connect to Internet.  

18. 06.2007. - BC

Still three days BC was chained with snow. We are practicing on ice-vertical around. Some people from Serbia were in K2-Camp first time in history – we were there. It was cloudy unfortunately and we could not seen K2 peak.

All of us are well, but we still have problems with dynamo. 

15. 06. 2007. – BC (5000 m)

We were installed first 200 m ropes, two tents and some of equipment yesterday.

There are 25 expeditions which were preparing for upsurge. It is nearly rumple-crumple J here.

All of us are well viewing snow fall.

Dynamo doesn’t work and we will be in problems with batteries if some doesn’t change soon.  Best regards.

Earlier: 08.06.2007. KUBURCE  3930 meters: After six hours of marching we arrived in Kuburze. Here is beautifull. Pedja, Rash and Dren can see Paiu, Tringo Tower and Cathedral Gope first time. All peaks as a needle, locally with ice, all over 5 or 6 thousand   meters.

All climbers are well. One of carriers was ill unfortunately and we have to return him. His pack have to allocate to the others. Tomorrow we will go on to Urdukus.

Earlier: Paiu is opposite Baltoro glacier. All members of expedition are OK.

With us are 120 carriers now. Lesser carriers than last year mean shorter stay in mountain. Something of equipment and food will be sneak afterwards.

It is not pause in the afternoon because we are going in short acclimatization tour at peaks in neighborhood.

Best regards to all.Milivoj Erdeljan, leader of expedition 

05.06.2005. – YOLA 3100 meters:  

Fortunately, today we had dry weather alter the rainy night. Light tracking from Ascole (3000 m) to the point where we are now, beautiful valley Biaho Lungme where almost 200 carriers around us are. We are surrounded with peaks sharp as needle, calling us to them. After short break we have to go to the acclimation.

In the meantime we spend tree days in Scardu occupied with examining the equipment, which had stayed last year in barrels and we fortunately find it in excellent shape.

The flight from Islamabad to Scardu, above the Karakorum Mountain, took 40 minutes, but it was shaky as in the down-town bus. Nanga Parbat was under and million of peaks high around 7000m. We checked also medical and emergency equipment, medical oxygen with masks and connection with helicopter base and dispensary.

This year we will climb the mountain pick without additional oxygen, but in Base camp (BC) we must have oxygen flaks, just in case.

We check our communication lines with Serbia using satellite phone. All is working fine, for now! Most important - all of us without stomach problems! We are healthy. These new fellows are tiptop, real men for right thing.

In Ascole we spend a whole day in packing equipment for the carriers, up to 22 kg each. There are a lot of things to carry!

Ascole it is a village like the one from ancient history, not paying attention on anybody else, includes these tourists, adventurers and us, mountaineers. They don’t want to change. These people have they own life and their rhythm. And they are satisfied.

Tomorrow we are going to next camp – Paiu, at nearness of Baltro glacier and so on for next seven day until we reach BC.

Pedja is getting along with us, Vojvodinians. He would be great “Lala” one day (Lala means tulip; it is nick for all of people from Vojvodina). Regards. 

PS. We were proud to accept offer Mountaineering Union of Pakistan.

This year is 50th jubilee of first summit Broad Peak and two mountaineers from Pakistan (Hasan and Sadik Satpar) join to our expedition, to climb the peak with us.

Because of that our expedition now is called “Serbia-Pakistan joint Broad Peak expedition 2007” officially.

So, now are with us two, as all seams, great mountaineers and there presence will be very useful to us in everyday communication with our additional staff and carriers.  

Earlier: 03.06.2007.We arrived in Scardu. Yesterday we checked all of equipment, today we are measuring it and packing it in barrels for carriers. Tomorrow we will terminate all of preparations and day after tomorrow we will start to Ascole. Best regards to all.

Update:

31.05.2007. Islamabad
We assembled missing baggage.
All administrative pursuits are accomplished (Ministry, Military, Mountaineering commitee).
Food was bought, gear too. We packed all and transport it to Scardu with cargo.
Tomorrow we will fly to Scardu. Civilization goodbye!
All of us are well

VOJVODINEAN EXPEDITION “BROAD PEAK 2007” - MEMBERS

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ISO PLANIĆ

 

Born 5.9.1965. Member of RMC “Spartak”, Subotica.

Expeditions:

Ararat (Turkey) 2000; Elbrus (Kawkaz-Russia) 2001; Akonkagva (Argen-tina) 2004; Shisha Pangma (Himalaya-China) 2004; Mount Everest (Himalaya-China) 2005; Gasherbrum 1&2 (Karakorum-Pakistan) 2006;

 

 

 

 

MILIVOJ ERDELJAN

 

Born 21.9.1964. Member of MS “Zanatlija”, Novi Sad.

Expeditions:

Elbrus (Kawkaz-Russia) 1989; Ararat (Turkey) 2001; Uhuru peak (Kili-manjaro-Tanzania) 2002; Barunce (Himalaya-Ne-pal) 2003; Shisha Pangma (Himalaya-China) 2004; Mount Everest (Himala-ya-China) 2005; Gasher-brum 1&2 (Karakorum-Pakistan) 2006;

 

VLADIMIR RAŠKOVIĆ

 

Born 31.7.1975.

Member of  MSS “Medicinar”, Novi Sad.

 

PREDRAG ZAGORAC

 

Born 12.6.1980.

Member of MSS “Poštar”, Belgrade

 

Expeditions:

Mount Blanc 2006;

Grand Paradizo 4065m, Mount Blanc di Tekil 4248m, Agi di Moine 3412m, Den de Zan 4013m

 

DREN MANDIĆ

 

Born 13.12.1976.

Member of RMC “Spartak”, Subotica.

 

Expeditions:

Ararat (Turkey) 2003;

Elbrus (Kawkaz-Russia) 2003;

 

 

 

28. 5. 07. Day 01 Start from Belgrade (21,30 h, local time);
29. 5. 07. Day02 Dubai (6,25 - 22,15 h);
30. 5. 07. Day 03 Islamabad (2,20 h);
31. 5. 07. Day 04 Islamabad (520 m);
1. 6. 07. Day 05 Islamabad- Chilas (480 km or 10-12 h jeep);
2. 6. 07. Day 06 Chilas - Skardu (275 km or 7-8 h jeep);
3. 6. 07. Day 07 Skardu (2.340 m);
4. 6. 07. Day 08 Askole (3.048 m) (96 km);
5. 6. 07. Day 09 Jhola (3.240 m) /8 h/;
6. 6. 07. Day 10 Paiyu (3.368) /6 h/;
7. 6. 07. Day 11 Acclimation in Paiyu (3.368 m);
8. 6. 07. Day 12 Khuburtze (3.800 m)  /3 h/;
9. 6. 07. Day 13 Passage to Urdukas (4.011 m) /3 h/;
10. 6. 07. Day 14 Passage to Goro II (4.500 m) /7 h/;
11.6. 07. Day 15 Passage to BC Broad peak (4.850 m) /8 h/;
from 12. 6.

to 11. 7. 07.

Day

16-45

Climbing Broad peak:
C-1 (5.600 m);

C-2 (6.250 m);

C-3 (7.000 m).

12. 7. 07. Day 46 Passage to Ali Camp (4.800) /4-5 h/;
13. 7. 07. Dan 47 Via Gondogoro la (5.680 m) to Khuspang(4.680 m) /11h/;
14. 7. 07. Dan 48 Via Shaicho (4.150 m) to Hushe (3.300 m) /9h/;
15. 7. 07. Day 49 Passage to Skardu;
16. 7. 07. Day 50 Skardu;
17. 7. 07. Day 51 Passage to Chilas
18. 7. 07. Day 52 Passage to Islamabad
19. 7. 07. Day 53 Islamabad/ Rawalpindi (outing)
20. 7. 07. Day 54 Islamabad (8,30 h) to Dubai (10,40 h)
21. 7. 07. Day 55 Dubai (8,20 h), Pariz (13,30 – 17,25 h),

Belgrade (19,45 h)

 

 

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