In the Himalayas
everything changes, in occasions with the speed of vertigo. Yesterday we had
taken off to look for the glory of Gasherbrum and today we are making up the
luggage to go back home. What happened? The worst that could happen, just that
thing that has no remedy. Death has thrown its black shroud over these snowy
landscapes. The group of Germans who were a day ahead of us suffered a terrible
tragedy. The fresh accumulated snow and the general bad weather started off the
accident. The route fell on them, in the form of thousands and thousands of
tons of snow, sweeping all the members to hell and wounding some of them. Among
them, Hiro, and old acquaintance, with whom I had the fortune and honor to climb
Gasherbrum I a few years ago. Now he struggles between life and death on the
way to base camp.
Those who come
back from above tell of the horror they lived, the danger in the high terrain
and renounce to keep climbing.
with my people.
I think that
experience backs me and I know when it is time to risk and when it is not time
to do it. I look at the final part of the mountain. Hundreds of meters of
unstable snow remain above, the forecast points to a week of bad weather, base
camp is almost desolated. I have no doubts. I will not risk my life, or the
lives of my people in a suicidal attack with null chances of success. In normal
conditions, GII is not a complicated eight-thousand. In
fact it is constantly climbed. This year it is still virgin. It is clear.
It is not
a good season. We have not lost anything, just some days after the summit of
Broad Peak and we were very lucky. We are still alive. We go back home, to
reunite with ours, to celebrate the summit of an eight-thousand, to celebrate
that we can still breathe, dream and climb mountains. I just hope that my
Japanese friend saves his life, that he holds on as he has done so far and that
this mountain doesn’t take away the life of this brave warrior. There will be a
pending battle here, in the Karakorum. But, it won’t be held now.
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