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  Italians Summit Gasherbrum II by New Route


Copyright© Billy Pierson

Karl Unterkircher, Daniele Bernasconi, and Michele Compagnoni  summited Gasherbrum II via the north face... a new route!

More news to follow as we get caught us after all the summits and missing climbers....

Gasherbrum in local language means "Shining Wall". There are six Gasherbrum Peaks. Gasherbrum II, (8035 meters/26,361ft), the shining mountain on the Karakoram range is the second highest peak among the Gasherbrum Peaks. The first ascent was made the an Austrian team led by Fritz Moravec along with Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart on July 8th, 1956. They set up a base camp on the south Gasherbrum glacier. Camp I was set up at 6005 meters. It was here that the party was forced to stay for ten days because of a severe storm. Consequently, they lost a large supply store in an avalanche. 

Gasherbrum II

Gasherbrum II (8035 meters) Its 2000 meters high Southwest flank. In the center the remains of a huge avalanche.

History of the Gasherbrum II

1889-1929 The international expedition headed by the Swiss G.O. Dyhrenfurth studies possible ways to the top of the Gasherbrum II and gets to 6250 meters on the south flank. 

1956: First ascent via the southwest spur by an Austrian expedition headed by F. Moravec. Fritz Moravec along with Josef Larch and Hans Willenpart starts from a bivouac at 7700 meters via the east spur to the summit on 7th. 

July 1975: Second ascent by a French group, 19 years after the first ascent. During this expedition, the first victim at the Gasherbrum has to be lamented. In this year, three expeditions get to the summit, among others a Polish women team headed by W. Rutkiewicz. 

1979: A Chilean and a German expedition succeeded in the 6th and 7th ascent. 

1982: R. Messner Summits with two Pakistanis.

1984: During the legendary double ascent of two 8000 peaks, Messner and H. Kammerlander get to the summit of Gasherbrum II and afterwards Hidden Peak. Counting and registration is more complicated during the following years because some illegal teams got to the summit. Both peaks belong to the less frequently climbed 8000 peaks. Per year, only 2 to 3 permits are given.

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