Update 8/30/2007: Aug, 30 Serguey Bogomolov called today
that team climbed 3 pitched above C4. The couloir is avalanche dangerous, so
they decided to overcome it via rocks, so they will climb the variant,
different of the original Japanese route.
Today the Kazakh team is ascending to
Camp 4. The weather becames better (all the way to C3 they did in very bad
weather - snow blizzard, strong wind) They hope for the summit bid tomorrow
or the day after.
Today 4 p.m. radio contact with the
team: they were about 100 m below C4. The main problem is to find the safe
way from the ridge to the glacier. Last time they have found the couloir,
but it was too dangerous. Now, after snowfalls, they hope that the couloir
is safe enough, in other case they have to overcome via the rocks.
Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov have
reached BC Aug 25, next day brought some equipment to 5200. 27-28 they
rested in BC. Then they're planning the acclimatization push via normal
route (NW ridge) till 7800. Perhaps, they are ascending now, Denis hasn't
written yet today. After acclimatization they hope to begin their
alpine-style climb via N Face.
Update 8/27/2007: K2 NW ridge: The weather is bad. Puchinin,
Brodsky and Bogomolov reached Camp 1 aug, 25, Maxut, Vassily and Alexander
Sofrygin reach Roch teeth Camp. Brodsky and Sofrygain decided not to go to
the summit bid and yesterday they returned to BC.
K2 North Face: Denis Urubko and Serguey Samoilov arrived to
BC with camels caravan. They are brave and yesterday left for the
acclimatization push. (SMS from Aug 26, 15-15)
Update 8/17/2007: Various climbers still at high camp
waiting on the weather break...
Update 8/15/2007: 15 August 2007 K2 NW ridge Kazakhstan
expedition. Yesterday the team set Camp 4 at 7800. Then reached 8050 m.
Chest-deep snow. Avalanche danger
26 June 2007 Kazakh K2 expedition (NW Ridge) start today
from Almaty. Members are: Maxut Zhumayev, Vassily Pivtsov, Serguey Brodsky,
Andrew Puchinin, Aggey Skopin, Malik Ismetov, Alexander Sofrygin, and Russian
Serguey Bogomolov. The coach - Ervand Iljinsky. The team'll go to Bishkek,
then to China by cars provided by their general sponsor - Astana Motors
company. The last climb of the NW ridge route was accomplished by Russian
(Togliatti) team in 1996. The NW ridge is
often called as the North ridge, but it's geographically incorrect
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