BROAD PEAK EXPEDITION (8,047 m.)
"The wide peak". Karakorum, Pakistan
It was the year 2003, when the first Andalucian expedition to this
mountain, Broad Peak, was organized. My climbing teammate during
those years, Ricardo Guerrero and I decided to approach this great
project. To get there, we decided to enter the Baltoro glacier, him
for the first time, me for the second time, in a light expedition, as
we called it, two people, two barrels of material, the food, the
savings and just enough time, to climb this mountain of 8,027 m. and
go back to work.
Ricardo achieved his summit on July 18, 2003, I turned around at 7,600 m.,
because of the sickness I felt and the cold in my feet, which made me suffer
the sequels for two months of insensibility and pain.
It was a very enriching experience for me, because it was the first
time I entered the slopes of a mountain higher than 8,000 m., I had
seen them from afar before, from their base camps, but I had never
invaded their inner parts; for Ricardo it was his 2nd time, he didn't
have luck either in his first attempt (Cho Oyu).
There I discovered the harshness of those mountains, the harshness of the
situation, completely far away from the civilization, 7 days by
foot, over a glacial and rocky terrain, from the closest village and
many kilometers away from the closest city with a hospital and
telephone. Which makes you drift away and get into the goal that has
taken you there, the chosen mountain.
In this occasion, my proposal of climbing this mountain is the product of my
evolution as a mountain climber, this is an eight-thousand to which I always
wanted to come back and now is the moment to approach it because the years of
experience and other ascended summits have given me the maturity and
preparation I need.
The planned route to climb is the one that was followed by the first
climbers in 1957 (Austrian Expedition) which goes by the central spur
of the West-Northeast Face up to the Col between the Central summit (8,016 m)
and the Main summit (West summit, 8,047 m) and continues over the North crest,
as shown in the enclosed image. The picture
also shows the situation of the high altitude camps.
The base camp is located at some 4,900 m. over the moraine of the
Goldwin Austen glacier.
Camp 1 will be at 5,900 m. in a little spur of rock from where the two
ridges of the Northeast crest of the mountain cam be seen.
Camp 2 is located at some 6,400 m. in a snowy slope that follows the line that
is exposed to the wind and the snowfall of the spur.
Camp 3, at 7,300 m. is located between crevasses and a slope under risk of
avalanches, and is located lower than what should be
convenient to avoid the falling stones and snow.
The final route from camp 3 to the summit goes over terrain with
crevasses up to the Col from where the other face of the mountain is seen, as
well as the Gasherbrums and from this Col you can access the final ridge of
rock and mixed terrain which will take us to the fore-summit at 8,030 m. and
then to the summit of this mountain.
01 ARRIVAL TO Rawalpindi/Islamabad, hotel
02 Bureaucratic paperwork, preparations
03 Travel by vehicle to Chilas
04 Travel by vehicle to Skardu
05 Final preparations in Skardu
06 Travel by vehicle to Askole, 3,000 m., night in a tent.
07 Trekking to Jula, 3,275 m., starts, night in a tent.
08 Trekking to Paiju, 4,380 m.
09 Day of rest in Paiju and acclimatization
10 Trekking to Urdukas, 4,400 m
11 Trekking to Goro-II, 4,500 m.
12 Trekking to Concordia
13 Trekking and arrival to Broad Peak's Base Camp (4,900 m)
14-34 Days of installation of the high altitude camps and ascent to
35 Trekking to Goro-II
36 Trekking to Urdukas
37 Trekking to Paiju
38 Trekking to Korofong
39 Trekking to Askole and travel to Skardu
40-41 Flight to Islamabad, if there is no flight to Chilas
42 Flight from Islamabad to Madrid, Sevilla
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