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  K2 2008: Our friend rest near the heaven. Let God bless him


Copyright© Billy Pierson

MILIVOJ ERDELJAN, leader of expedition SERBIA K2 2008
 
PUBLIC ANNOUNCEMENT
 
Our DREN is high in the mountain now. Other members of expedition have had meeting in Base Camp. At usual place named MEMORIAL we were putting memorial attribute for our friend. He was the best one and mountain reserves him for itself. K2 reserves ten climbers more from different countries with our DREN. The accident who took our friend happened 1st of August at 11.15 am (LT) during ascent on the top of K2. In this moment our team (DREN MANDIC, ISO PLANIC, PEDJA ZAGORAC and carrier HUSSEIN) was on mountain-detail named Bottleneck (8150 m). Wishing to replace himself with climber behind him DREN undo his assurance. Fix-rope relocated suddenly. DREN loosed his counterbalance and fell down to 8020 m where his body was stopped. PEDJA was first to arrived to the inanimate body (it was after 15 minutes). ISO and HUSSEIN arrived after him very soon. In this moment I was broking our expedition definitely.  We muffled our friend’s body in the Serbian flag, secured it with pickaxe and put it on 7900 m to the right from direction C4-Bottleneck. Our friend rest near the heaven. Let God bless him.  

Earlier: First to the families: You are going to read many stories, the details are going to vary, sadly much you will never *know*. NO ONE knows the whole story, much will recalled incorrectly, not on purpose but because these climbers were in an extreme environment and in many cases the climbers were not doing well themselves. In your search for answers, beware of those who try to tell you have have all the answers. No one does. We are talking in general here, not to any one story that has been published...

Below is a link to the first story where Wilco talks. The story contains an error where it incorrectly refers to some others who died as on his team.. The story is worth a read, again stories from the various climbers will vary and everyone has their point of view. : Here you go: Wilco Talks

Earlier: Very very very sad news ...

Dear EverestNews.com, On my request secretary tourism is kind enough to call a meeting today [of the tour operators] at 11 30 am in his office to get complete knowledge of K2 incident.

Captain Azeem at K2 base camp confirm secretary tourism while talking on phone following people are died and injured.

1. Mr. Kim Hyo - Gyeong Korean

2. Mr. Park Kyeong - Hyo Koream

3. Mr. Hwang Dong - Jin Korean

4. Mr. Jumic Bhote Napali

5. Mr. Pasang Bhote Napali

6. Mr. Jehan Baig Pakistan HP

7. Mr. Meherban Karim Pakistani HP

8. Mr. D'aubarede Hugues Jean - Louis Marie French

9. Mr. Gerard McDonnell Irish

10. Mr. Dren Mandic Serbian

11 Mr. Rolf Bae Norwegian

Injured persons are;

Mr. Wilco van Rooijen Dutch

Mr. Cas van de Gevel Dutch

Mr. Marco Confortola Italian

First two Dutch climber are brought down by helicopter to Army Military Hospital in Skardu and they are getting treatment of 3 degree frost bite, accordingly to hospital sources.

Mr. Marco will be [expected to be ] rescued today from base camp.

Secretary Tourism pass condolences on behalf of Government of Pakistan to concern national embassy in Pakistan, especially he speak loudly about the Pakistani and Nepali HP who gave their lives while saving life's. He also directed Pakistan International Airlines, Hospital in Skardu to give especial treatment to injured person.

He also pass his condolences to Irish Embassy and Irish people for lost of their great climber Mr. Gerard McDonnell, who became the first Irish to climb K2.

May God give peace to sole of these climbers.

Asghar Ali Porik www.jasminetours.com

[Editorial note: EverestNews.com was listing Mr. D'aubarede Hugues Jean - Louis Marie and Mr. Gerard McDonnell as missing hoping and praying for a miracle.  We understand an uniformed source NOT on the mountain is spreading rumors that only one is dead; they are VERY uninformed. This is also very very sad.

All names except the 2 Sherpas and 2 Pakistani climbers were earlier released by the teams and or Pakistani tour operators/agents. Again Mr. D'aubarede Hugues Jean - Louis Marie  and Mr. Gerard McDonnell were earlier listed as missing. ]

Earlier: Marco is now at camp 2, they expect to bring him down to Base camp. The Italian Embassy have told that Mr. Marco will reach K2 B.C on 04 Aug, morning, Mr. Roberto is already in the B.C. both the gentlemen will be evacuated on 04 Aug 2008. (1200 hrs local) According to Italian Embassy Mr. Marco Confortola is likely to descent today to an altitude where he is accessible by helicopters. We are waiting for more details from the Embassy to launch the rescue operation

Wilco is now is in Base camp with Cas van de Gevel and his Sherpa.

Serb update: PEDJA  and ISO with two carriers arrived to Base Camp

Earlier: The list of dead:

Day one (on the way UP): Serb climber DREN MANDIC and Pakistani climber name withhead; (2)

Descent: Hwang Dong-jin, Park Gyeong-hyo and Kim Hyo-gyeong all of Korean (source Korean expedition) ; one Sherpa, name withheld; Rolf Bae (his family wishes further information and details not be reported on him) (5)

With Gerard McDonnel Irish is still missing and the French leader HUGUES still missing ..... (2, "Missing".)

Rescuers: One Sherpa and One Pakistani climber; names are being withheld at this time. (2)

That is 11.

Note to editors, no Dutch climber is believed to have died (might want to remove from wire reports)

If you know others that are missing Send email to  ; climbers clearly need to be looking for climbers who still are with us.  We currently have no other climbers listed as missing or dead besides the above list.

Two climbers being assisted down, Marco the Italian and Wilco the Dutch....

Earlier: Two of the dead climbers have came from the rescue efforts. Somewhat important to point out that these men were trying to save others, while the names are being held. These men, while not American or European, have given their lives trying to save others and should be honored the same as if they were western climbers.  What we can tell you at this point is one was a Pakistani Porter and one a Sherpa.

After the ice broke lose on the bottleneck the Sherpa climber managed to descend to Camp 4 but he went back to help others. We are told he reached his friend but both slipped and died...

Earlier: The American report: Mike Farris, the leader of the American expedition, reports: SAFE IN BASE CAMP: August 3: Please excuse the brevity, but we are still very busy here. We arrived in BC at 1:30 last night. All members are now in BC, safe and sound (though tired). Chhiring summited K2, so we are very happy about that. Unfortunately, a beautiful day turned deadly and up to 11 climbers lost there lives. We are still involved in the rescue of two climbers; we think that both rescues are going well and the climbers should be in BC by tomorrow. More details later. Thanks for your support. Mike

Dead : 2 Pakaistani Porters, Serb climber DREN MANDIC, and Norwegian Rolf Bae (his family wishes further information and details not be reported on him), two Nepalese, three Koreans, names of the 3 Nepalese and Koreans have not be released. Source of the Koreans and Nepalese deaths include Ghulam Mohammed, owner of the Blue Sky Treks and Tour. (That would total nine.)

Summary of Jamine Tours Expeditions:: Gerard McDonnel Irish, He is still missing. But others have shown up...

Jasmine Tours organized Expedition on K2. Norit K2 Expedition: Wilco van Rooijen Dutch, He is safe and return down to base camp, he will reach base camp today in the evening. Cas van de Gevel Dutch, he is helping with Pemba to bring down Wilco. Roeland van Oss Dutch, he is at BC coordinating all rescue efforts. Gerard McDonnel Irish, He is still missing. Pemba Gyalje Sherpa Nepal, he is helping with Cas to bring down Wilco. Jelle Staleman Dutch, at base camp safe. Mark Sheen Australian, he is safe at base camp. Court Haegens Dutch, he is gone back home earlier.

Jasmine Tours International K2 Expedition: Jacob Andreas Ployart Wetche Greenland, he is gone back home earlier this week. Nick Nielsen Greenland, he is also gone back home earlier this week. Christian Stangl Austria, He is safe at base camp; Thomas Strausz Mag Austria, He is safe at base camp. Blagojevic Veljko Bosnia and Herzegovina, he is gone back home early. Hoselito Bite Serbia, He is safe at base camp.

Sunny Mountain Chogori Expedition: George Dijmarescu, American he is safe and helping in rescue effort. Mirea Leustean Romanian he is safe and helping in rescue effort Teodora Vid Romanian She is safe and helping in rescue effort. Rinjen Sherpa he is safe and helping in rescue effort. Mingma Thinduk Sherpa he is safe and helping in rescue effort. Asghar Ali Porik, Owner Jasmine Tours

More to FOLLOW VERY SOON

Earlier: We are seeing a lot of confusing reports on the web and in the newspapers; we are sure people are trying to do their best. There is mass confusion. We understand some do not want the names of the dead released, but that does add to the confusion and mess. Let's start from the beginning....

We were told by 2 or more sources on the Mountain (which is EverestNews.com standard for reporting death news), that 2 climbers died on the way UP. We were told that the Serb climber DREN MANDIC (that is the correct spelling) and HUGUES Pakistani porter died (on the way UP). Dren we were told died trying to past a slower climber in the bottleneck and fell. (Summary: Two dead on the way up).

22 is the main number used that were going up, it is unclear it anyone knows the real number... Anyway, numerous climbers from the 22 summited late or got close late (it really does not matter at this point who summited)..... Some in Base camp predicted major trouble... Reasonable descent times would have them back too late... Sadly, those in base camp were right....

Many did not come back.... yet anyways...

Currently Missing: Sherpa , Gerard McDonnel Irish , 3 Koreans and 1 Sherpa missing , French Leader Missing - Hugues . more

Four have been reported dead including the 2 who died going UP, from 2 or more sources on the Mountain to EverestNews.com

Many think others are missing... Alberto Zerain, one of the first to summit and is now down and calling in reports, reports several dead and 6 missing: Of the several dead: 2 Pakistanis, 1 Serbian, others withheld...  THINGS ARE VERY BAD ON K2...

If you know others that are missing Send email to  ; climbers clearly need to be looking for climbers who still are with us.

The Italian Marco is hurt bad at Camp 4, but he has support.

There are too few sherpas and H.A Porters ....

One climber in an Orange suit have been seen coming down... no one is guessing who the climber is..

Several rescues are still trying to get people down and help people. Bad weather will soon arrive... PRAY for the rescuers , the weather is soon going to turn HARD....

UPDATE: Wilco has just been located in Camp 3! How he got to camp 3 without other knowing?  Hopefully Wilco can tell others , where various climbers are... It is unclear if Wilco was the orange suit people saw descending..

May they rest in Peace...

Earlier: This is the update of Jasmine Tours organized Expedition on K2. There are positive hope of more survivors from Bottle Neck Ice Fall, it is reported by Roeland that he has seen some one walking down on the Cessen route, Cas and Pemba will descend from C4 towards C3 and try to find out about this person.

Norit K2 Expedition: Wilco van Rooijen Dutch, we are searching for him Cas van de Gevel Dutch, he is at C4 and helping with Pemba in rescue efforts.

Roeland van Oss Dutch, he is at BC coordinating all rescue efforts. Gerard McDonnel Irish, we are trying to find him. Pemba Gyalje Sherpa Nepal, he is at C4 and helping with Cas in rescue efforts. Jelle Staleman Dutch, at base camp safe. Mark Sheen Australian, he is descending down from Abruzzi Ridge and is at C2. Court Haegens Dutch, he is gone back home earlier.

Jasmine Tours International K2 Expedition: Jacob Andreas Ployart Wetche Greenland, he is gone back home earlier this week. Nick Nielsen Greenland, he is also gone back home earlier this week. Christian Stangl Austria, We are trying to find his location Thomas Strausz Mag Austria, We are trying to find his location. Blagojevic Veljko Bosnia and Herzegovina, he is gone back home early. Hoselito Bite Serbia, he is reported coming down toward base camp.

Sunny Mountain Chogori Expedition: George Dijmarescu, American he is safe and helping in rescue effort. Mirea Leustean Romanian he is safe and helping in rescue effort Teodora Vid Romanian She is safe and helping in rescue effort. Rinjen Sherpa he is safe and helping in rescue effort. Mingma Thinduk Sherpa he is safe and helping in rescue effort.

Asghar Ali Porik Owner Jasmine Tours

Earlier: As you all know that around 22 climbers starts their summits attempt from different route on K2. Some of them summit K2 and some are finding their way upward from Bottle Neck, when suddenly a big ice fall down on the route to bottle neck and hearting many of the climbers and trapping some of the climbers above bottle neck. It is told that fix rope is taken away by this big ice fall.

Rescue efforts are continue since then by high altitude porters and climbers, already up in the mountain. We the tour operators have a urgent meeting on August 2nd at 3pm to discuss the situation and helping in the rescue efforts. All Tour Operators urgently sent messages to their concern staff and HP to help each other in rescue efforts.

Jasmine Tours has Norit K2 Expedition, Sunny Mountain Chogori Expedition and International K2 Expedition (the Jamine Tours International k2 expedition).

Its learnt that three of its Norit K2 expedition members are above bottle neck. Sunny Mountain Chogori Expedition all members are safe and helping the rescue efforts.

Hosilito Bite is coming down towards BC.

Blue Sky Trek and Tours has Korean Expedition and it is told that their two Korean members and one Nepali Sherpa is above bottle neck. The fellow Koreans are helping in rescue effort from C4.

Nazir Sabir Expedition has a Serbian K2 Expedition and yesterday their one Serbian member Mr. Mandic fell down from c4, his body is found around c3 and buried their by fallow members and rest of the members are heading down to base camp.

Adventure Tours Pakistan has an American expedition all members are safe, however high altitude porter died while helping in the rescue effort. It is told that ATP one French member is missing.

Hunza Guides Pakistan has a Singaporean K2 expedition, it is told that they are at C3 and helping other climbers in rescue efforts.

Hushe Trek and Tours has Italian K2 expedition and it is told that their one members is hurt near C4 and HP with this climber is bring him down to base camp the other member is safe at base camp.

Our all efforts and prayers are with the climbers and pray for their safe return to base camp.

Asghar Ali Porik  Owner Jasmine Tours.

Earlier: First the weather, the window is still open, but things are going to get worse. On Monday evening, wind will increase becoming westerly, triggering cloudiness/snow for short time. Mon/Tue will be hard.

Good News

Marco Confortola is "found" and at camp 4 , 2 Sherpas are there giving him oxygen and medicine. This information is from his climber partner who is now in K2 base camp.

Fredrik Strang is one of the climbers up high helping. He is on Mike Ferris's expedition , he is reporting that all of his eight team members are safe.

Bad News

A climber fell in the bottleneck, breaking an arm or leg...

Gerard, the Irish climber is "missing". Gerard McDonnell is 37 years old originally from Kilcornan. He is oil company employee who lives in Alaska and is part of the Dutch   international team.

One report claims 6 peoples still standing on the bottleneck...

Hugues is "missing".

A third climber has died in camp 4.

The list of missing is variable....

Other Updates

Singapore climbers with 2 Sherpas were asked by Dutch to stay in camp 3 [but not go up]. It will be the third night there, they will need to down very soon... They are sharing what food, fuel and oxygen they can spare for the rescued climbers and rescuers.

The Singapore Team's update: Our team okay

An avalanche above Camp 3 has wiped away the fixed ropes above Camp 3, leaving some 12 climbers stranded. There were also reports of at least 3 deaths. Our team woke this morning to a request from BC to stay put at Camp 3 and to gather food, fuel and oxygen for the rescued climbers and rescuers. They are in contact with BC every two hours, standing by to help n the rescue if needed. They will be spending a third night at Camp 3 which will surely leave their bodies even more debilitated.  Their expedition now hangs in the balance, but that is the last thing on their minds, as lives are at stake. If you are so inclined, please pray for everyone on the mountain."

Earlier: Things are real bad on K2. The Koreans, we are told, are sending their Sherpas up to try to rescue climbers. What remains of the Dutch teams at camp 4 is expected to go up with a couple of others. If the fixed ropes are really gone, then ....

At least one climber "hopes" that the fixed ropes are not gone and that those coming down just missed the point.... Who knows at this point.

One unconfirmed report states as many as 7 climbers could be seen up high...

We are not going to release names at this point, see below (way down) for information on climbers who people believe to be down.

At least one climber believes it is time to try to send everyone possible who is at camp 3 and above up that can help...

Hard decisions that might result in more lost of life...

Help!

Earlier: One climber was still seen going UP at 8.30pm local time last night. Some summited at 6pm. The weather is almost perfect for K2. So... We are told 2 died on the way up...

We are being told as many as 12 did not yet make it back to camp 4 yet. The Koreans DO have a group who were planning to try to summit tonight. They are going to run into a mess .... The Korean will have oxygen, but probably not much more than they will need. Taking themselves off oxygen could result in death for their members.

A hope and a prayer. The weather is almost prefect... No one could ask for better conditions...

A report that a big chunk of ice took out part of the fixed lines is unconfirmed.

Rescues attempts from base camp to rescue someone at the bottleneck would seem impossible, according to past K2 Summiters we have talked to.

The fate of many are in the hands of the themselves to will their way down with the possible help of the Koreans...

Stay Tuned...

Earlier: A Serbia climber fell from the bottleneck. His family we are told have been told, but we will hold the news for 24 hours... A porter also is believed to have died...

Other reached the the summit ... but late.

The Dutch team summited: Cas, Gerard and Pemba, and Wilco... It was Wilco's third attempt.

Norwegians and Hugues, the Frenchman, summited

The Italian climber (Marco Confortola) was still going up very late.... His parent turned around early and it assumed safe.

At 8.30 pm local time, 3 headlights were seen going down up around the shoulder... Unclear where everyone is at right now...

Gerard has become the 1st the FIRST Irishman to become a K2-summiteer.

If you believe, then prayers .....

Others: It is believed Eric the doctor and his Sherpa turned around and it back in camp 3.

The Koreans summited first with oxygen and are believed to be the strongest...

Mark Sheen did not attempt the summit.

Jelle Staleman is down to camp 3.

The last few meters seemed to take hours to reach....

The Singapore team made a good call and turned around. the report is below...

August 1: The Singapore Team set off today from Camp 3 and headed towards Camp 4. They reached the tip of the shoulder from where they could see the bottleneck, before turning to return to Camp 3. They will return to BC tomorrow to recover and wait for their summit window.

An exhausted Robert said they were climbing about 20 % slower than he Koreans and Americans who had been on the mountains far longer. He and Edwin are not as well acclimatised as they would have liked, having arrived late at BC.

 

 

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