– Clouds, snow, wind… Every day
in BC is the same. And the sun? Only seldom peeps behind the clouds. All of us
are nervous. All the days we are in our tents. We go out only for
– Number of climbers and
expeditions in BC K2 is on the maximum. From now this number will be smaller and
smaller. All expeditions finished their acclimation, advantage camps are ready,
and most of us are waiting for favorable forecast to start up. But… It is not so
simple. We need 5 days for upsurge and 1-2 days more for descent. Six or seven
favorable days are almost impossible on this mountain full of caprices. So we
have to have good forecast! Oftentimes we have to start in bad weather to arrive
on the top when the window is open. All the day we make comparisons between our
forecast and forecast of the others expeditions. We perform phlegm but time goes
on. Today is one month since we made BC. Thanks to God we are healthy and jocund
still ready to check what is the view from the top of this shamefaced mountain
which abscond itself in the clouds.
– There are no clouds over top
of K2. Early in the morning we were starting to C2. As first we will poke the
snow around our tents in C1 and then in C2. We will sleep there.
Our tents are OK and all of
equipment is OK too.
Some minutes after high-noon
clouds are on the sky again. The wind is stronger. Leader of our expedition Mico
Jovovic arrived from Serbia this morning in BC.
– Overnight (yesterday evening)
in our tent was meeting of leaders of all expeditions in K2 BC. There were
Dutch, Singaporean, American, Italian and Korean. We made agreement for
collective upsurge to the top. The biggest problem is Betelnik, ice-rock which
is about 100 m high. We will put the rope on it all together. Few next days
there are expecting bad weather. When the forecast be good we will meet in C3
and start to K2 from there. It needs to install more 300-700 fix-ropes.
- BC is under snow. We are in
– It is unbelievable – warm and
sunny day here, 15˚C in the shadow! But upon the mountain on over 8000 m Korean
Sherpa are in hurricane. The snow is over their girdles. They are trying to find
right-way to BC or C4 anyhow.
Here in K2 BC some people are
coming and the other are leaving. Our friend Greenlander Nick and one climber
from Denmark are going home. They said that the avalanches here are too
hurtfully for them.
Iso are putting the stones around the tent. Dren was washing himself. One
mountain goat arrived here in BC. Does it mean that we have meat for dinner?
Earlier: Hurricane night is behind us.
The wind has been shaking our tents all night, but we managed to keep them
safe from the wind. Unfortunately, the clouds didn’t raise above the top of
K2, so our carriers had to get back from the C3 camp. The snow is very deep up
there. We headed towards Depot and waited for them out there. Now we’re all in
the base camp again. We’re waiting and waiting for the clouds to move away
above the mountain.
There is no wind, but everything
is covered with clouds. The carriers from the C2 contacted us at about 6 am.
Three Korean Sherpa and three Sherpa from Italian expedition are with them. We
heard from them at about 10 am again. The clouds have moved away a bit and
they’re heading towards the C3. The snow is deep. We are at the base camp and
we’re going to celebrate Imamat Day with our Pakistani friends.
The weather above K2 is not
perfect. Clouds come around, then there’s a hurricane wind blowing, and still
there are moments when the sun is shining strongly. In the next three days we
intend to carry the oxygen bottles to the C4 (7.900 meters). We hope that the
weather will allow us to fulfill our intentions.
Till we waiting
to start climbing time goes slowly.
Forecast is not
promising and we have to be patient.
Every moment we
use for checking our equipment. This day is time for those things for our
heads: under-caps, caps, forehead lamps, sunglasses, oxygen-masks, stop
valves and bottles with oxygen. In altitude in the dark we will have not
time for repairing but each error may be end for climbing.
In meantime we
took some photos.
In the afternoon
we have meeting with others expeditions.
Raining on 5.000
meters is rarely but here in BC it is the second raining day.
We decided to
rotate our Pakistan-friends in the kitchen. Dren and Pedja arranged
“Gomboce” (it is an old Vojvodinean sweetmeats). The potato is needful for
this but here are no potatoes so Pedja and Dren took mash from pocket. At
home we always prepared “gomboce” with plums but here are not plums. So
Pedja and Dren took strawberry-jam. But all was OK.
It is cloudy in
BC. The glacier is sliding and we made new platforms for our tents all the
day. There was rain in the afternoon. It is 7.00 pm now and it is raining
3. 7. 2008.: There are not
clouds over K2 this morning. But the wind is strong. When the sun rises over
our tents, we started to C2. Advantage-carriers proceeded to C3. If the case
of promising weather we will install C3 today.
2.7. 2008.- BC: One morning without snow finally. Temperature is -8 C˚. At
6.00 am we started to AC1 and arrived about 12.00 am. Our tent was covered by
snow. We spend more than 1 hour of digging. But now we are snuggled in it.
Advantage-carriers were calling by phone – they are in C2. In case of
promising weather they will start to C3 and we will start to C2 tomorrow
morning. In the afternoon-hours there were installed 200 m of fix-ropes on the
way to C3.
1. 7. 2008. : This morning there is snow in BC again. We got promising
forecast yesterday but it is not sunny day today. After breakfast we were
going to K2 Memorial Place. There are memorial stones for those people who
rested on K2. At 7.00 pm it starts to snow. At 10.00 pm sky was clear again
and we have seen the first stars on it.
30. 6. 2008. - BC : It is snow here again. It is windy and clouds are
all around. We prepared oxygen masks and we are waiting for oxygen from Scardu.
morning on 6.600 meters. We can not to C3 today. Sky is closed, all in clouds.
windy and snowy. We are starting to BC and we abandon ropes-installing
for some others days. But it is OK with our stomachs.
It is dark in C2 (6.600 m).
There are wind and snow. Three of our carriers and four Korean-Sherpa are with
us. We were bad-luck today: pains are in our stomachs, one pad migrated down
the rock and snow was starting on the way to C2. But the wind is not strong
Calm night in C1 (6.040 m). Some
wind without snow. When the sun was up we started to C2. This morning carriers
started with equipment from BC to C2. Tomorrow we will install the fix- ropes
the morning we were started to C1 and it was high-noon when we arrived. Next
night we will here and tomorrow we are going to C2.
Early this morning our carriers
removed 600 m fix-ropes and they will install C2. In the same time Korean team
will install 400 m fix-ropes more to C2. We are in base camp. Today we are
planning day of pause. Tomorrow it will be for carriers.
It is nice day in BC. We are
reading your posts on our web site. Thank to all for good wishes and
We came back from C1 to BC. It
seems we are at home. There are smile-faces around and coffee.
And plenty of chatting. We and
Korean team togeder installed 1.200 m of fix-ropes. What this really mean? It
means that we can reach C1 in only 5 to 7 hours. And descent to depot lasted
1,5 hour only.
Upsurge and descent was full of
surprises. There were avalanche of stones on 5.400 m. We were awed and feel
like we were in some kind of video-game. Stones more than 50 kg flitted over
DREN lay down and put his
knapsack on his head. It was salvage for him because the biggest stone shoot
PEDJA budged left-right to
evasion the avalanche of stones and ISO sticked to the rock and waited.
We stayed in our tent to sleep
and we feel so lonely in little tent on 6.050 m. All the night was snowy.
Tinned chicken and in the
morning refresh us and our mood in the morning. After breakfast we made some
photos out of tent. Than we affixed on the rope and came to Depot like in an
elevator. From Depot to BC we came for 90 minutes. It was our record.
Early in the morning (5.oo am)
we started to Depot from BC. Morning is clear but very cold – temperature is
under -10˚C. We spend more than 2 hours to come on 5.150 m in Depot. There
were 6 members of Korean team who reach Depot yesterday. Together with them we
proceeded installing 350 m of fix ropes to C1.
It is very awry, axles are in
the rock but ascent is in snow. One avalanche of stones flitted over us but
nobody was stricken. At 11.45 am we installed one of tent on 6.040 m. It is
our C1. Korean team put their C1 near our tent. Today we will return to BC.
good ended last night.
Communication-Officer of one of expedition near us got “something” in his
lung. It was some kind of situation and we have descendent him in military
camp on Concordia. He could not to walk and our carriers bring him on the
barrow for 3 hours (to the half of way to military camp). After 3 hours
officer stand to his own legs and proceed to his destination with escort.
Carriers came back to BC in prime and they were sick and over strung. God
bless them! They rescued one human life.
morning some of expeditions (Italians, Pakistan’s, Frances) gratitude to us.
Himalaya repute sacrifice when someone changes his expedition-planes because
of helping to someone who is not part of their own team. None of expedition
– but our - are not permitted that their carriers waste themselves for
helping to “some officer”.
day under snow. All of time in the camp. But we made full of things until
today: we were very first this year in installing fix-ropes on scarps of K2.
We made as we could.
weather… No one day without snow!
satisfied that Mr. Kim Ye So (president of Korean climbing federation) said
that we can install fix-ropes and climbing and summit together. We have good
experience with Koreans (summit G1 & G2 last years) and it is good
combination for us.
Ultimately sun helps us to go out from the tent. K2 show itself in all of
its beauty and proportion. It significant only one thing – we will go ABC.
breakfast we started. Some pries for luck and success follow us.
To ABC we
have over the Godvin Ostin glacier. Way is easy in the beginning, only
creeks and stones. Some times after Godvin Ostin glacier shows his really
structure - Cracks and ice-bridges… Finally we arrived under Abruci Rock
and stones flitted over us from the top of Abruci. We have to be very
careful! Some steps uphill and we arrived on the little gritty flat with
ice-towers around. It is ABC!
team installed two tents for food and equipment but it is place for us too.
carriers suggested that we start with rope fixing to C1 immediately because
weather is good and clear. We filled god on 5.300 m. and accepted.
Way to C1
goes aboard one big snowy mountainside and it is fresh streak of one
avalanche. It was all the snow from days before today and it is
comparatively safely for climbing.
beginning scarp is 30˚. Afterwards scarp is bigger and bigger … 45˚… 50˚…
55˚… Easier part we passed together. And than Hussein goes on the top of the
rope to lead.
is easy, snow is good, and we are going after him without rope. Hussein
“extricated” some 200 m. Than ISO and I required leading. Hussein said: “If
you wish, you can go!”
m it was the end of ropes. Rest of ropes we will install some other day.
started very firs and we hope the other expeditions will come after us.
In BC we
arrived some minutes after 3.oo pm. Warm soup and warm words in the tent.
some shout outside. Pakistan’s connection-officer was ill – lung! We got him
some of medicine and our carriers to escort him down.
I hope he
will be safe soon.
Earlier: We arrived in Paiyu (3.500
m) and we have beautiful view on Baltoro glacier. Transportation across the Baltoro River
valley outlasted 6 hours and passed without excesses but one of mules broke
the leg. This pitiable animal will be at supper-table this evening, perhaps.
And after that we will drink “Baltoro-deuce” (it means gold-colour water
plenty of minerals from the creek which is skipping the dast of ambient).
Pedja says he like it. Withal, it is his birthdyu today and he can
what he want. God bless him.
First hiking-day to BC (3140m). It was sunny and dusty.
We haven't any problems with eider carriers or equipment.
Everithing is in order and each thing is on its place.
Our Note-book battery is almost empty.
Best wishes to all.
In 6 jeeps and all of equipment we arrived to Askole, the village
on the end of the world,
marvelous place encircled by snow-peaks. Today we have had the last
bathing for the 50 next days.
From tomorrow we will going across the river-valley and than Baltoro
Glacier is waiting for us.
What are expecting from next 10 days? Only several things: 1. That
transport to K2 BC prove in acclimation; 2. That we reach it ready for
giant challenge; 3. That we enjoy bypass great peaks which are alignment
along our way like for some kind of parade.
Alter arrival in Islamabad, on
+48˚C (in the shadow) we went to Department of Tourism. It was some problems,
of course. And we determined them, of course. Ambasy of Pakistan in Belgrade
was very helpful, of course.
Tomorrow we will start to Skardu but we don’t know which transport.
It is drivers-strike here.
Background and team information below:
Belgrade, Serbia; Departure
Chilas (480 km)
Skardu (275 km)
Skardu (2.340 m)
Skardu (2.340 m)
Askole (3.050 m) - 96 km.
Transport to Jhola (3.240
Transport to Paiyu (3.368
Acclimation in Paiyu (3.368
Transport to Khuburtze
Urdukas (4.011 m);
Goro II (4.500 m);
Transport to Concordia
BC K 2 (5.130 m);
Upsurge to K
C1 – 6.050 m
C 2 –
C 3 –
C 4 – od
7.600 m do 8.000 m;
BC – Goro
Goro II – Khuburtze;
Khuburtze – Chobraqk;
Chobraqk – Askole;
Chilas - Islamabad
Departure from Islamabad
Dubai (7,30 h) –
ISO PLANIĆ – Born
ŽPK “Spartak”, Subotica from 1994.
Ararat – 2000; Elbrus –
2001; Akonkagva – 2004; Shisha
Pangma – 2004; Maunt Everest -
2005; Gasherbrum 1&2
– 2006; Broad Peak – 2007;
PREDRAG ZAGORAC – Born
12.6.1980. Member of PSD “Poštar”, Belgrade from 1990.
Blanc – 2006; Grand Paradiso - 4065m, Maunt Blanc de Tekil 4248m, Aghi de
Moine 3412m, Den de Zan 4013m; Broad Peak – 2007;
DREN MANDIĆ – Born
13.12.1976. Member of ŽPK “Spartak”, Subotica from 2003.
2003; Elbrus - 2003; Broad Peak – 2007;
JOVOVIĆ - Born 1.5.1952. Member of PSD “Železničar”, Novi Sad.
1996; Maunt Blanc - 1997; Island Peak– 1998; Barunce – 2003; Shisha Pangma
- 2004; Maunt Everest - 2005; Gasherbrum 1&2– 2006;
ERDELJAN - Born 21.9.1964. Member of PD “Zanatlija”, Novi Sad.
1989; Ararat - 2001; Uhuru Peak (Kilimanjaro-Tanzania) – 2002; Barunce –
2003; Shisha Pangma - 2004; Maunt Everest - 2005; Gasherbrum 1&2
– 2006; Broad Peak– 2007;
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