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Beim Aufstieg kurz unter dem
Bottleneck 1
Beim Aufstieg kurz unter dem
Bottleneck 2
Freie Sicht von der Schulter zum
Gipfel des K2
Louis beim Spuren in der Traverse
Der Gipfel des K2 bei
Sonnenaufgang
Earlier: Sepp Bachmair, Louis Rousseau and Gerfried are
in the basecamp of K2 preparing their journey home. They are exhausted, the
hard work through the deep snow costed them lots of energy. On friday they
will leave the basecamp over Gondora- La to Skardu. We are all very happy
about their healthful return!!
Earlier:
All mountaineerers are on the way down. At 3 o'clock Gerfried and Co.
decided, to go down. Gerfried: “Too much snow and the advanced time, there was
no chance to reach the summit.”
More news later..
After a very short sat-phone call with Gerfried, I can tell
you, that Gerfried and approx. 8 other mountaineerers are at the end of the
bottleneck-traverse at 8250m. They are slow, because they have to fix the
dangerous passages. Gerfried estimates: ” 4 more hours to the top.” Gerlinde
Kaltenbrunner is also with them, Sepp Bachmair turned. More information as
soon as possible…
K2 bottleneck
Earlier:
Sepp, Luis, Christian and Gerfried are in Camp 3 (7380m) building up their
tents. "It was very windy today", Gerfried reported. The Kasachs, Santiago and
the American climbers are approximately one hour before their tent place on
the shoulder. They are in sat- phone contact, to transport the latest
information. Gerfried: "It looks much better than one week before, they
reported."
In less than 10 hours Gerfried and Co. will
start the summit push. Gerfried: "At 1.00 o'clock in the morning we will
start, so keep your fingers crossed once more!!"
Earlier:
Gerfried and Christian have already reached Camp 2, after a 6,5 hour walk. The
weather is very good, blue sky, only a little bit windy. Louis and Sepp are
shortly before the camp. Gerfried is in the tent, melting some snow, so that
they have enough to drink when they arrive in the camp. Gerfried: " It looks
very good, my body feels physically strong, with a little bit luck and
teamwork we can reach the top." Tomorrow they will climb to Camp 3, as they
usually planed, then Gerfied is calling once again
Earlier: Values of friends,
after our failed attempt last Sunday on 7700m in the avalanche dangerous
part under the shoulder of the K2 we recovered in the last days from the
strains. We exterminated and to have us mentally to the mountain stopped
large quantities of food. Today I, as usual before an ascent at a 8000er,
have still extensively mean bodies cleaned, in order to enter the place of
the God's as cleanly as possible. My luck potato, which I would like to
deposit at the summit, is already in the jacket in camp 3, the picture
from Hannah and Heike always is with me in the backpack. After we got very
good weather forecasts of Charly Gabl and Muhammah Hanif, we denied
ourselves with the other expeditions. Our common summit day should be now
4 th of August. The groups use different tactics. Thus already started on
the Abruzzi route the Americans, Kasachen and Russian on 31 July.
Santiago, Kim and its Sherpas and Gerlinde together with the Americans on
the Cesen route today. Louis, Sepp and I start as the last together with
Christian from the basis camp around 5:00 clock local time directly to
camp 2 (6680m) around Monday camp 3 (7380m) to reach tomorrow morning
here. From there out we want to start early, on the shoulder (camp 4,
7900m) Gerlinde, Maxut, Sergue, Vasily, Santiago, Fabrizio, Kim, Pemba,
Mingma, Dave, George and Ali to meet and together with them the most
dangerous section, which bottle neck under the Serac, fixed and to ascend
further. Rarely the K2 was turned on by such a experienced exactly team
correct in the order of magnitude. Together we have to book approx. 75
8000er summits. Now it will hold really excitingly and I please you firmly
us the thumbs. With something luck we can stand in few days on the summit
of the K2 (8611m). My Mrs. Heike will as of tomorrow update again and
again! Love of greetings from the basis camp of the K2 (5050m) Gerfried
and team
Gerfried Göschl
Earlier: Back to base camp, too dangerous
Earlier:
After a short telephone call with Gerfried I can tell you, that all climbers
reached Camp 3 (7380m). The weather isn't very stable, it's very cloudy, the
sight is quite bad. Tomorrow at 01.00 they will start the summit push.
So keep your fingers crossed once again!! :-)
Yours,
Heike
Earlier:
Gerfried reports Wednesday from the base camp of K2: all goes well. In the
base camp, the team also meets on old friends: Skyrunner Christian Stangl and
the Spaniard Jorge Egocheaga. Jorge und Christian Jorge and Christian
together with Louis Rosseau, Sepp Bachmair and Gerfried the ascent on Friday
begin.
Editorial note: No mention of the claimed summit by
Jorge.... this past weekend, maybe a bad report??
The other four members of the team - Joelle Brupbacher, Martin Ramos, Quintero
Santiago, and the carrier Qurben already have in the past few days and weeks
great preparatory work and the Abbruzzi route up to Camp 3 well established.
The group is currently in camp 2 and camp breaks Friday to 3 on.
owever, there is good for the team news from Innsbruck: Charly Gabl gives
green light for an ascent to the summit on Sunday - the team expects good
conditions with little wind and good visibility.
Earlier:
Today,
Saturday, Louis, Sepp and I will set off for K2 from Skardu. If everything
runs to plan, we will be in Basecamp K2 on Tuesday 21st July. The past events
are still very present. To lose Wolfgang was a big blow for us, and each of
us must find our own way to deal with it. Also, the completely unfounded
accusations from Mr. Garcia haven’t exactly helped the situation. Maybe on
our short trekking trip, we will manage to bring things back on an even keel.
Most of the OeAV participants are back at home. Günther Unterberger, Hans
Goger, Michaela Landl, Herbert Schütter and Kilian Volken are on a trekking
tour from the Märchenwiese to Gilgit and come back on the 22nd July.
6
participants who want to come with us on K2, are already in K2 Basecamp
(Jorge, Martin, Santiago, Joelle, Dave and George) to acclimatise.
We will
send news again from Basecamp on K2.
Love and
best wishes,
Gerfried
Göschl
OeAV K2
Expedition
Skardu
(2450m)
Earlier:
Bad news from Nanga Parbat: Wolfgang Kolblinger is missing. All other members
are save in Camp 4 and in basecamp. Details are at this moment not possible.
Our thoughts are with Wolfgangs family.
The summit
success on Nanga Parbat (8125m) from a tragic event overshadowed: The search
for Wolfgang remained unsuccessful so far. Detailed circumstances about
the when, where and Wolfgang's whereabouts are not currently known. deepest
sympathy in these difficult times to Wolfgang's family, especially his wife
and his daughter.
In Camp 4 are after their summit victory Louis, Herbert,
Sepp, Hans Goger and Gerfried. All other participants are in or en route
to the base camp. They are deeply affected, but their circumstances well
Earlier: After a very short telephone call, I
can share the following good news: The first summit ascent of Nanga Parbat
(8125m) is underway via the Kinshofer Route.
The as yet unconfirmed report came about an
hour ago, and according to Gerfried, involves Wolfgang Kölbinger and three
other members. If and how many participants have reached the summit is
guesswork at this time.
The “New Route Team” has also safely
arrived on Camp 4, where the New Route and the Kinshofer Route come together.
Tomorrow, the team wants to storm the summit with Günther, Hans, Louis, Sepp
and Gerfried.
Kinshofer Route am Nanga Parbat
(8.125)
Earlier:
summit day postponed until Saturday because of the snow. They could only made
600Hm today and are right now at 6900m
Earlier:
The summit push is on! Stay tuned
Earlier: Despite the changeable weather, we have used the small
chances over the last couple of days to acclimatise ourselves better. On
Wednesday, we climbed direct from BC to C2 (6000m). Even a short, heavy
blizzard in the Loew-ice crevice couldn’t stop us from ascending further. The
track work, for which Günther especially deserves a mention, was accordingly
tiring.
After a hard night, we wanted to ascend to 6500m yesterday. This time, a hail
shower drove us back to the protection of the tents in C2 once and for all.
This morning, we all descended by bad weather and snow safely back to
Basecamp. Now we will recuperate for a few days to recharge our batteries.
The following people were present on this all important acclimatisation
excursion: Günther. Hans, Louis, Gerfried, Herbert, Michaela, brothers Wenzl,
Peter, Wolfgang, Sepp, Ronald, Kilian, Sandy, Rick.
In all probability, there is a chance of a run of good
weather from Monday. Maybe we could use this for a summit ascent.
Keep your fingers crossed!
Gerfried and Team
Nanga Parbat Basecamp (4250m)
Kilian Volken in der Kinshoferwand
Kinshoferroute bis Camp 2
Kilian Volken in der Löw-Eisrinne
Nanga Parbat im Abendlicht
Earlier: Dear friends of the ÖAV Nanga Parbat Expedition,
today, we had to unfortunately deviate from our original plan to ascend to
Camp 2 (6000m) and stay there overnight, because the weather situation changed
for the worse. Snow and storms are forecast for tomorrow, Tuesday – there is
no chance of spending the night on the mountain. There is no bad news however,
without good news!
We changed our goal for today and “only” went on an
acclimatization tour. Günther, Hans, Louis and I (accompanied by Herbert,
Michi and Sepp) left Basecamp and visited the Diama Glacier, and ascended to
5100m to observe our new planned route. We hit the jackpot with this tour. The
start of our planned route should, depending on the conditions, be easier to
reach than expected.
Günther, Hans, Louis and I are optimistic that we will start
this untouched face in approximately 10 days. First though, we have to sit out
the bad weather
It should improve from Thursday. We are concentrated fully on our
acclimatization on the Kinshofer Route. By better weather, we will ascend
first to 6000m, and then to 6500m and camp overnight. When we have done this,
we should be prepared for a summit ascent. We will then try to put our project
into action!
Unfortunately, our team has reduced by one vital member. Our
Doc (Dr. Günther Straub) had to leave us for family reasons and will return to
Austria this week. The whole team would like to take this opportunity to thank
him for all of his excellent work and wish him all the best.
Best wishes,
Gerfried and Team
Nanga Parbat Basecamp (4250m)
Earlier:
Yesterday Günther, Hans, Lois and I climbed thoug the
Loeweisrinne and the techncally difficult 80m Kinshoferwall, and reached C2.
We laboriously cut out a tent area and left 2 tents there. As a result, most
participants reached C2 (6000m) yesterday (Günther, Hans, Lois, Adriano,
Giuseppe, Helmut, Sandy,Rick,Gerfried) and today (Herbert,Kilian, Peter,
Wolfgang, Sepp, Gebrüder Wenzl) and all have descended safely into BC. This is
a super achievement when you think that we first arrieved in Basecamp just
over a week ago. We will now rest for at least 2 days in order to recover our
strength. We have certainly earned this break after the last few tiring days.
Depending on the weather, we will ascend to C2 in a few days and sleep there.
The snow is slowly dissappearing from BC and we are moving to new dry camping
areas.
Best wishes, Gerfried and Team (Nanga Parbat Basecamp,4250m)
Earlier:
The team has arrived and Already today the whole team will active start to
acclimatize their bodies. They will walk to camp 1 (4900m) if the weather
conditions will be stabled.


Dear EverestNews.com, we´ll start
from Vienna, Zürich, Venice, Munich and Toronto and all meet in
Islamabad on 12. June. We have been very busy the last weeks.
Unfortunately our very good friend Peter Fessler has died 4 weeks ago
while sleeping.
Our expedition is again an expedition of the Austrian Alpine Club OeAV.
We send update after our briefing.
stay tuned
Gerfried

Team on Nanga Parbat
Göschl Gerfried, Austria, Expeditionsleiter
8000er: Cho Oyu, Gasherbrum 2, Shisha Pangma, Mount Everest, Broad Peak
Straub Günther, Austria, Co-Leiter und Expeditionsarzt
Bachmair Sepp, Austria
8000er: Broad Peak
Dal Cin Adriano, Italy
8000er: Cho Oyu, Mount Everest, Broad Peak
Goger Hans, Austria
8000er: Cho Oyu, Mount Everest, Shisha Pangma
Grüninger Helmut, Germany
Kanzian Peter, Austria
Kölblinger Wolfgang, Austria
8000er: Shisha Pangma, Cho Oyu, Broad Peak
Landl Michaela, Austria
Newerkla Ronald, Austria
8000er: Cho Oyu
Pompili Giuseppe, Italy
8000er: Cho Oyu, Mount Everest
Rousseau Louis, Canada
8000er: Broad Peak
Schütter Herbert, Austria
8000er: Dhaulagiri
Unterberger Günther, Austria
8000er: Shisha Pangma, Broad Peak
Volken Kilian, Switzerland
8000er: Cho Oyu, Mount Everest, Broad Peak
Wenzl Georg, Austria
8000er: Shisha Pangma, Broad Peak
Wenzl Hans, Austria
8000er: Shisha Pangma, Broad Peak
Team on K2
Göschl Gerfried, Austria, Expeditionsleiter
8000er: Cho Oyu, Gasherbrum 2, Shisha Pangma, Mount Everest, Broad Peak
Egocheaga Jorge, Spain, Expeditionsarzt
8000er: Mount Everest, Gasherbrum 1, Cho Oyu, Shisha Pangma, Nanga Parbat,
Manaslu, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Gasherbrum 2
Bachmair Sepp, Austria
8000er: Broad Peak
Brupbacher Joëlle, Switzerland
8000er: Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Cho Oyu, Gasherbrum 2
Newerkla Ronald, Austria
8000er: Cho Oyu
Pompili Giuseppe, Italy
8000er: Cho Oyu, Mount Everest
Quintero Santiago, Ecuador
8000er: Broad Peak, Makalu
Ramos Martin, Spain
8000er: Shisha Pangma, Mount Everest, Cho Oyu, Nanga Parbat, Gasherbrum 2,
Broad Peak
Rousseau Louis, Canada
8000er: Broad Peak
Volken Kilian, Switzerland
8000er: Cho Oyu, Mount Everest, Broad Peak
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