The Amin Brakk is situated in the Nangma Valley
of Karakoram. It is in open zone, one did not need a trekking permit or have
to pay Peak Royalty fee to climb this mountain tower. 30-35 days round trip
from Islamabad is recommended to climb the Amin Brakk.
According to record available Amin Brakk was first attempted in May 1996 and
again in 1997 by Basque climbers Jon Lazkano and Adolfo Mdinabeitia. Who had
to turn back only 300m from the summit due to bad weather? Finally Amin Brakk
received its successful first ascent by Spanish climber Silvia Vidal, Pep
Masip and Miguel Puigdomenech in August, 1999 and name this peak to their
beloved cook "AMIN".
Approach to the mountain; Like all mountains in Karakoram
Rawalpindi and Islamabad is the gateway to the high mountain of northern
Pakistan. Islamabad International airport link the world with dozens of
international flights each day. From Islamabad road journey to Skardu is by
the famous Karakoram highway with 22 to 24 hours (also known as the old silk
route). You can also choose to fly with an hour’s flight to Skardu with Boeing
737 (there is only one flight in a day goes and come back same day from
Islamabad; during the flight one can see the 9th highest mountain in the
world- Nanga Parbat. Be prepared for delays due to bad weather, road blockage
during the road journey due to landslides.
A 6 to 7 hours drive from Skardu by jeep will bring you to
the Khande Village.
For your trekking journey to the base camp of Amin Brakk you need food,
supplies and porters to carry them. Food supplies you can either buy in
Islamabad or Skardu. Porters to carry your supplies and equipment, you can
hire them in Khande Village. 2009 official porters rates is 380 rupee per
stage (200 daily wages + 100 empty return + 80 for food money).
Khande village to the base of Amin Brakk it is two days trekking with river
crossing, steep hiking. Amin Brakk base camp is an altitude of 4200m with
green pasture around and fresh water running close by.
Organized Expedition; Each
year dozens of expedition try to climb Amin Brakk but until now only three
routes have been establish, We have the honour in organizing the successful
Russian Extreme Project B.A.S.E. climbing Expedition of 2004 led by Valery
Rozov. In this expedition Valery Rozov made the first ever base jump from Amin
Check. Despite having only three sunny days, with good quality of base camp
and logistic services the expedition manage to climb.
Please remember most important thing in an expedition is logistics. You should
come in an organize way, So you can concentrate your time and efforts on
climbing this beautiful mountain.
Back Packers or Low budget to get there; Traveller with
plenty of days in hand, can take the cheapest way to reach Khande (Nangma
Valley). From Skardu one can take public transport to Khaplu, quite a large
town (with all sort of accomodation), the road to Khande (Hushe the last
village one hours further from Khande) which crosses the Shyok River just east
of Khaplu to Saling and follows to Khande. In 2000, a major flood wiped out a
bridge at Khand, seriously damaging Khande village and cutting the road. Until
now (2005 summer) the bridge is still not built. The Khande Village is few
minutes drive or a short walk from this bridge. The public jeeps runs from
Khaplu to Khande or further to Hushe village daily.
Official paper work; The Amin Brakk (Great Tower) is in Open
Zone, No Peak Royalty Fee is require to pay, No Trekking Permit is require to
obtain from tourism office as the mountain is in open zone.
Routes; Spanish "Sol Solet" route this is A5 23 VI 60 Degree
ice and first ascent made by Silvia Vidal, Pep Masip and Miguel Puigdomenech
in August, 1999.
Czech made the second route on Amin Brakk called "Czech Express" route this is
A3 27 VI 70 degree ice and first ascent made on this route by Filip Sihan,
Mareck Holecek and David Stastny in September 1999.
The third route on Amin Brakk is called "The Russian route" this route is A3
19 VI and first ascent made on this route by Arcady Seregin, Alexander
Lastochkin, Sergey Kovalev and Valery Rozov in July 2004. Valley Rozov also
made a successful BASE jump from 300 meters below the top.
Climbing season; May, June, July and August are the best
month to climb.
Camping; yes, camping is allowed in the area. There are
camping fee in Khande Village. There is no camping fee up in the mountain
areas. While up in the mountains please camp little away from Shapard huts.
Maps on Pakistan; K2 and Baltoro Glacier in the Karakorum
satellite image map 1:80 000 scale. Publish by Polski Zwiazek Alpinizmu (PZA)
2004 on 100th anniversary of organized Polish mountaineering and 50th
anniversary of first ascent of K2.
Asghar Ali Porik
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See more here.