Oscar Perez is stranded on Latok I since last week. He fell while attempting a
new route. His climbing partner Alvaro Novellon was also hurt but made it back
down. Climbers have been flown to attempt a rescue, with Pakistani military
helicopters dropping them Wednesday according to ATP.
LALOK IS A GROUP OF PEAKS ON BIAFO HISPAR GLAICER AND
ITS HAS A FACE WHICH CAN BE CLIMB FROM PANMA GLACIER TOO.
THERE WERE THREE EXPEDITION THIS YEAR ON LATOK ONE
KOREAN EXPEDITION IS CANCELLED AND AMERICAN EXPEDITION IS GONE BACK.
NOW THE REMAINING SPANISH EXPEDITION WITH ONLY TWO
MEMBERS LED BY MR. ALVARO NOVELLON CASAMIAN IS UP THERE. THIS EXPEDITION IS
RUN BY ATP IN PAKISTAN.
PLEASE FIND ATTACHED LATOK AREA MAP WITH LATOK PICTURE
COURTSY OF ALEX HOUBER.
ASGHAR ALI PORIK
We congratulate our Bulgarian expedition
members Mr.Nikolay Mihaylov Petkov Boyanov Ventsislavov, Boyan Petrov,
Nikolay Vladimirov Valkov for summiting GI on 26 July, 2009 at 10:30 am. We
again congratulate Mr. Boyan Petrov for summiting GII on August 1, 2009. We
also congratulate our Iranian members Mr. Mohammad Reza Mirahmadi and
Hussein Asghari for summiting GII on August 2, 2009 at 2:30 pm.
On K2 our member Mr. Chris Stangl from Austria
again could not make the summit due to heavy snow reach above 8000m last
year and again this year.
In other news most of the expedition
members are return home, Palu Roxo, Daniela, Jacek Teler, Powel Wojas,
Katarzyna, Dirk Grunert, and Bulgarian mentioned above expect Boyan left
home and other are now in Skardu and Rawalpindi waiting for their flight
As you heard about Latok accident, High
porters yesterday sent to base camp with helicopter to help the climbers. As
we have news on this we will update you.
Asghar Ali Porik
1. Shaukat Zaman Butt: Deputy Chief Operation Ministry of Tourism, Government
of Pakistan; His job is to received Mountaineering and Trekking application,
process them with different agency, coordinate and issue mountaineering
trekking permit to tour operators, on behalf of government of Pakistan deal
with all related department to promote tourism in Pakistan.
2. Adele Pennington happily showing mountaineering permit for UK Jagged Globe
GII Expedition 2009 led by Mr. David Hamilton.
3. Adele Pennington again
4. Group G 09; Jasmine Tours organized Gasherbrum I, II and VI expedition
includes Jacek Teler leader, Pawel Wojas, Katarzyna Sklodwska from Poland for
GI and GII, Dirk Grunert German climber for GI and GII, Daniela Teixeira and
Paulo Roxo Purtugese for GII and GVI. Remaining members will join the group
later making this group up to 22 climbers.
5. Mr. Ichimura Fumitaka Japan with 03 climbers for Japan Golden Peak
Expedition 2009 with his countryman Mr. Yamakawa Taheshi for Kunyan Chhich
with 03 climbers, these two group is organized by Nippa Travel.
6. Jacek Teler happily showing climbing permit.
7. Wg. Cor. (R) Javel Iqbal Honorary Secretary for Alpine Club of Pakistan,
his job is to organize briefing and debriefing for mountaineering and trekking
8. Mr. Ueli Steck happily showing climbing permit for Swiss Kobler & Partner
GII Expedition 2009.
9. SA BP Expd 09: South African Broad Peak Expedition on their arrival at
Islamabad airport. Now the group reached Broad Peak Base Camp.
There are reports that this year mountaineering expedition is facing heavy
snow on walking trail on Baltoro Glacier and also on mountain slops. Be
careful and have a happy climbing season.
Asghar Ali Porik
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.