copyright© Saxon Karakorum Expedition
There are two summits SW of Chogolisa which rise to above 7000 meters. The
western most one about two miles from Chogolisa was climbed by a 13 man
Japanese party led by Hiroaki Akiyama on its NW ridge from the glacier west of
the peak. They went from Khaplu up the Hushey Valley to set up Base Camp on
June 14th at 14,000 feet on the east bank of the Chogolisa Glacier. Camp 1 was
establish at 15,425 feet on June 21 and Camp II at 17,225 feet on the snow
plateau above the ice fall on the 29th. Camp III was set up near the NW col at
19,200 feet on July 5th. Camp IV was made on the NW ridge on July 10th. On
July 14th Misuo Yajima, Sanji Kabayashi, Testsuo Nakamura and Shoichi Yasuji
climbed to the top in eight hours. On the 22nd Hiroshi Narita, Minoru Osama
and Akio Kida set out from CIII at one A.M. and got the summit at 2:45 P.M.
Chogolisa No. 11/NE (7654m/25,111ft) is situated in the eastern part of
the Baltoro and Siachen glacier region. Its nearby glaciers are Abruzi, Chogolisa
and Kaberi. The peak is approachable from Khaplu via Kaberi glacier as well as
from Skardu via Vigne and Chogolisa glaciers.
During their trips in 1911 and 1912, Mr. And Mrs. Bullock-Workman of USA
visited the junction of Chogolisa glacier with Gondogoro glacier. They also
looked into the Chogolisa glacier but did not go farther to its main head.
They are also stated to have surveyed the visited areas quite accurately.
Earlier in 1909, the Duke of Abruzzi’s party reached 7,498m on this peak
from a base camp which was located at the northern base of the mountain and
the Chogolisa Saddle 6335m. Due, however, to bad weather, the party could not
In 1955, members of the Harvard Mountaineering Club are stated to have
explored the Chogolisa glacier. Two years later the famous climbers Diemberger
and Hermann Buhl (whose solo ascent of Nanga Parbat in 1953 is epic) left on the 20th June, 1957, to climb
Chogolisa. On the 25th June they left camp I and approached the south west
ridge and camped in a saddle at 6706m. They were 1,000 feet short of top when
bad weather forced them to turn back. It was on the way down on the 27th June,
1957, that Hermann Buhl, a mountaineer who had to his credit, at that time,
climbed two 8000 meter high peaks, suddenly disappeared. His body could
not be found in spite of best efforts.
In 1958, a strong team of Academic Alpine Club of Kyoto University, Japan,
came to the mountain. Its leader was T. Kawabara. The other famous members of
the team were T. Kato, M. Fujihira. M. Yamaguchi, M. Wakizawa, M. Nakashima,
K. Hirai, Y. Takamura and G. Iwatsubo. Captain A. Wajih of the Pakistan Army was
the liaison officer. The party attempted the peak from the Skardu – Askole –
Concordia route. After establishing five camps. Fujihira and Hirai were able
to climb the peak. They returned to the base camp after a labor of 18 hours.
The party shows the height of Chogolisa as 7654m. Other members, in the mean
time, climbed two nearby peaks and named them Kondus and Kaberi.
The Name of other peak in the range is Chogolisa No. 1/ south west/Bride
Peak. It has a height of 7665m. In 1975 an Austrian expedition, led by Eduard
Koblmuller, gambled on approaching Chogolisa from its nearby unknown south
side. The party had not provided proper footwear to porters, who refused to
walk on fresh snow. As result the party had to carry loads to the mountains.
Like Hermann Buhl 18 years later, a cornice gave way and the leader, Koblmuller fell
through; But unlike Hermann Buhl, Koblmuller was roped and his
friends stopped the fall.
On the 2nd August, 1975, Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer, after spending
twelve hours climbing the west ridge, stood on the summit of Chogolisa I.
Another peak in the range is Chogolisa west with a height of 7000m. Some
foreign maps show its height as 7041m but do not give it any name. Japanese
maps show its height as 7000m and call it as Prupoo Burahka Peak. In 1977, a
Japanese railways workers expeditions climbed Chogolisa west peak. The party
indicated its height as 7000m and recommended that it may e called Prupoo
Asghar Ali Porik
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