8000 Meters Facts
SUCCESS IN THE KUN-LUN MOUNTAINS
West Ulugh-Muztagh, 7925 m from the West
September - October 2003 we carried out a very
successful Finnish expedition to a very remote peak
in the Kun-Lun mountains - Ulugh-Muztagh.
Only two expeditions before us could reach Ulugh-Muztagh
and summited it. The first was a Sino-American
expedition in 1985, the second one was a Japanese
expedition in 1989. Both expeditions reached the
mountain from the eastern side and climbed it along
the South-East Ridge.
The western side of the mountain was unexplored and
unclimbed. A few climbing teams tried to reach Ulugh-Muztagh
from that side but without any success. The last
attempt was done in 2001 by Johan Heersink (ALPEX
firm, Holland) but his expedition stuck in
quicksands about 90-100 km from the mountain.
We took two very powerful 6WD Russian army trucks
(Ural), crossed the Takla-Makan desert and the Kun-Lun
mountains, reached Ulugh-Muztagh from the West and
summited unclimbed Western Ulugh-Muztagh Peak (6925
m) and six unclimbed 6000-m peaks not far from our
The first ascent of Western
Ulugh-Muztagh Peak was done by four young Finnish climbers Marko Aho, Jari
Ahtola, Antti Maenpaa and Kimmo Puoskari along the West Ridge on October 12.
Andrey Ershov (Russia) and Alexandr Petrov (Kyrgyzstan) did the first ascent
of Peak 5986 m on October 06. Finnish expedition doctor Heikki Karinen did the
first ascents of Peak 5993 m, Peak 6060 m, Peak 6094 m, Peak 6146 m and Shetou
Peak (6285 m) during October 08 - 13.
Our way was about 5200 km from Bishkek to Bishkek. About 1200 km we drove
through the mountains without any road, on the altitude about 4000-5000 m,
through the passes above 5200 m, rivers and quicksands. All expedition members
are very happy because none of climbers has been there and nobody could do
such expedition before us!
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here.