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  Russian Aconcagua 2004


"Adventure Team Alpindustria"

News from Aconcagua Expedition of Russian Adventure Team of Alpindustria from Moscow under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko. Alexander Abramov reports: "10, February. The weather has been spoiled. Practically all the members of our team spent the night badly. The heads were ready to burst and there was the shortage of oxygen. Some persons of last Everest expedition felt good and were woken up by the groans of others at night. In the morning at 9 o'clock we crept from the tents to have tea and even tried to do morning exercises. In half an hour the sun appeared but it did not warm us only the thought about the base camp made us happy. We left the tents with some things packed the rucksacks, which became easier and ran down to the base camp 4300m.

We met Irina Vljalenkova and another groups they intended to ascent the summit within the next two days. Irina had spent already two days at the camp 5600m so she wanted with us to ascent the summit the day after tomorrow.

When we came down to the base camp everyone was eager to call home by the satellite phone that was given to us by the school Senkevich "Extreme and Adventure Tourism".

In one hour hail began to fall and then snow. I suppose we are luckier than the people at the camps higher. The vodka was taken out and we drank for the good weather and even Robert Ulph agreed that vodka was good for acclimatization. The weather is going to be good. Tomorrow is a rest day.  Good Bye."

News from Aconcagua Expedition of Russian Adventure Team of Alpindustria from Moscow under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko. Alexander Abramov reports: "11, February. Probably the weather will be bad for a long time. The morning began with the digging out the tents from under the snow. Through all the night it was thundering and lightning.

During the day the sun looked out sometimes and illuminated the west wall of the Aconcagua. Before the afternoon we walked to the hotel where we drank coffee and played ping-pong. On the way back the snowstorm caught us but we were not depressed and laughed as more as usually. Pasha Nurgaliev wrote a poem about our adventures but it turned out to be a little bit sad. Maybe the reason is that he lost Lena Ivanova 10kg of load and he would have to carry her 10kg to the camp 5600m. Tomorrow the hard passage will be from the base camp 4300m to the 5600m. If it will be possible we try to reach the camp 5900m the day after tomorrow. Good Bye."

News from Aconcagua Expedition of Russian Adventure Team of Alpindustria from Moscow under the leadership of Alexander Abramov and Ludmila Korobeshko. Alexander Abramov reports: "12, February. All the day the strong and freezing wind has been blowing from southwest that means from Antarctica. Most of the climbers have to descend to the base camp and another few who tried to make an attempt to conquer the summit were thrown away by the squally icy wind. We have hoped at random and left the base camp. The snow-covered camp Nido de Condores 5600m was reached by 4 o'clock. Ira Vjalenkova climbed the camp one hour late she was the last one. The wind has carried away the tents so our tomorrow-planned ascension to the camp 5950m is questionable. The day after tomorrow should be the storm of the summit.

God, calm down the wind, give us chance! Good Bye."

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