Magliano has just left for the sixth
summit (Elbrus). Three expeditions to conclude in only
Milan, 6 May 2003. By the end of 2003, Alberto Magliano, 57
years old, aims to be the first Italian non-professional alpinist – and the
first Italian after Reinhold Messner - to climb the ‘seven summits’, the
highest peaks of each of the seven continents.
The challenge of the ‘seven summits’ first came about in
the 1980’s and today has become a popular and highly renowned experience in
the field of alpinism that has been successfully encountered by approximately
70 alpinists from all over the world.
adventure began in 1998 when he conquered the Aconcagua summit in South
America (Argentina, 6959 metres). This success was followed by the triumph of
the African peak Kilimanjaro in 1999 (Tanzania, 5895 metres), the Asian summit
of Mount Everest (Tibet-Nepal, 8850 metres) and Vinson Massif (Antarctic, 4897
metres) both reached in 2002, and at the beginning of 2003 Kosciuszko,
(Australia, 2228 metres). Magliano has declared that he aims to reach the last
two peaks of the ‘seven summits’ by July 2003, these are Elbrus in Europe (Caucaso,
5642 metres), and Denali - also known as Mount McKinley – in North America
(Alaska, 6194 metres).
challenge to climb the ‘seven summits’ also includes an eighth peak, the
Carstensz Pyramid in Oceania, (Indonesia, 4884 metres) which he aims to
complete by Autumn 2003. This peak and that of Kosciuszko are both at the
centre of a geographical controversy regarding the true seventh continent
(Australia or Oceania). In fact only 60% of the alpinists that have completed
the ‘seven summits’ have climbed both.
extraordinary aspect of this challenge is that Magliano is not a professional
alpinist but a highly qualified manager, now a consultant in the tourism
sector who discovered his passion for alpinism at 36 years old. He began
training in Valmalenco, part of the Italian region of Lombardy and has
gradually expanded his experiences by climbing mountains all over the world.
conclude his ambitious programme to climb the ‘seven summits’ (eight in
total), Magliano will have to face the remaining three expeditions in only six
months. Today he left for Mount Elbrus (Europe), famous for having the most
glaciated peak in the world, in order to continue with his challenge.