On Wednesday the expedition went
to CI and spend the night over there under a big storm. The next morning with
a heavy baggages (they transport all the material that they will need for the
rest of the expedition including 600 meters of ropes) and fresh snow on their
way they reach 5.650 meters and settled CII. For the rest of the day has been
snowing so this morning (Friday) they found half meters of fresh snow so they
decide to come back on the BC that they reach with a very bad weather
condition (fog, snow, wind).
From CII they've been
studying which way to do and at the moment their intention is to try the Dutch
route open in 1977 that is situated on the left of the French route as had the
advantage of being less prone to avalanche, They are all fine and will spend
some days resting in BC.
Update: On Easter Sunday, taking advantage of the clear skies, we climbed up
the glacier again and began transporting the materials and equipment to 5000
meters, where we intend to install our Camp 1. The incline is decidedly
difficult and the way definitely free of old anchors, reason why we installed
about 500 meters of new rope holds.
The days which we have spent at base camp up to now have
definitely been characterized by bad weather. With heavy snow cover we took
part in the “blessing ceremony” called a “puja. Even though by now I have
participated in many such ceremonies, I am moved each time.
Our acclimatization is proceeding well including for
Christian who is on his first Himalayan experience. He is in great shape and
not suffering from any altitude sickness. We are a small group who seems to
be getting along quite well. This is most important when you think on all of
the times that this type of climbing will require us to be in close quarters
with one another.
In the late afternoon, it began to snow again, fortunately,
we had once again reached the warmth of base camp and our tents. This
evening, at the end of dinner, we all enjoyed a slice of Colomba Pasquale (the
traditional Italian Easter Cake shaped like a Dove) and a glass of white wine
brought from home in Italy. It was a way of feeling closer to our families
back home. Good wishes to all of you,
Silvio will go to Annapurna around the 20 of March together with 4 Italian friends
(Mario Merelli, Christian Gobbi, Daniele Bernasconi, Mario Panzeri). They will
try on the North Face. After he will probably go with "Al filo de lo imposible"
team to Nanga Parbat.
Mondinelli, (1958), Mountain Guide, Alagna Valsesia, Italy reached the
Summit of Everest without Oxygen
on the 23rd May 2001. Since then he has added Summits of G1, G2 and
Four SUMMITS OF 8000M PEAKS IN 2001 FOR SILVIO.
meter peaks Summits in 2001 for Silvio. He is a rising star...
Summits of 8000 meter peaks
1996 Shishapangma (Central)
Silvio Mondinelli on
Autumn Annapurna 2002.
Silvio Mondinelli on
Winter Broad Peak.
In Spring of 2003 he was on
Everest and K2 in Spring 2004.
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