On Wednesday the sun accompanied
us up to Camp II, where we spent the rest of the afternoon and the night. The
temperature was mild and the view truly incredible. Before sunset we decided
to undertake a reconnaissance mission so as to better understand which would
be the best route to take the following morning.
Yesterday morning we decided
to proceed with the ascent, even though some threatening clouds began to
appear and the temperature had definitely changed for the worse. We began to
set ropes on the route which essentially is the same one that was opened in
1950 by the first French climbers. Our choice was somewhat obligatory since
the other routes are currently impossible with the current conditions on the
face of the mountain. We are looking at a route which is probably more
technically simple than others, but which has been defined in any case as
dangerous to undertake.
Having reached 6200 meters,
we were forced to stop. We had no more ropes with which to proceed. Together
with Mario and Christian I decided to spend another night at Camp II as a way
to further acclimatize to the higher altitude. Mario P. and Daniele returned
to base camp. It snowed until after midnight, but this morning the sky was
clear, even though the wind never stopped blowing. During the morning's
descent to base camp our attention was on the ropes placed during the first
ascent. We need to decide which ones to remove so as to better utilize them
higher up in order to reach 7100 meters, where we intend to set our Camp III
in the next few days.
At the lower altitudes the
temperatures have begun to rise and there is a certain air of spring.
Unfortunately, the weather forecast is not very favorable at this time.
Another disturbance is predicted which will make it difficult until the early
part of the coming week.
Last night the people of
Nepal celebrated the New Year, their 2062nd. Happy New Year wishes to our
cook and his helper and to all our Nepalese friends. My wish is that the new
year may bring back the peace and tranquility to a country currently made
martyr by the incessant guerrilla fighting and the economic crises.
Silvio will go to Annapurna around the 20 of March together with 4 Italian friends
(Mario Merelli, Christian Gobbi, Daniele Bernasconi, Mario Panzeri). They will
try on the North Face. After he will probably go with "Al filo de lo imposible"
team to Nanga Parbat.
Mondinelli, (1958), Mountain Guide, Alagna Valsesia, Italy reached the
Summit of Everest without Oxygen
on the 23rd May 2001. Since then he has added Summits of G1, G2 and
Four SUMMITS OF 8000M PEAKS IN 2001 FOR SILVIO.
meter peaks Summits in 2001 for Silvio. He is a rising star...
Summits of 8000 meter peaks
1996 Shishapangma (Central)
Silvio Mondinelli on
Autumn Annapurna 2002.
Silvio Mondinelli on
Winter Broad Peak.
In Spring of 2003 he was on
Everest and K2 in Spring 2004.
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