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  Mt. Everest 2005: Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa aka Ang Dorjee Sherpa

Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa is popularly known as Ang Dorje.  He has now summited Everest 10 times!

1992 Spring Summit of Mt. Everest via South Col (1)
1993 Spring Summit of Mt. Everest via South Col (2)
1994 Spring Summit of Mt. Everest via South Col (3)
1995 Autumn Summit of Mt. Cho Oyu (Tibet)
1996 Spring Summit of Mt. Everest with Rob Hall (4)
1996 Autumn Summit of Mt Cho Oyu (Tibet)
1996 Summer (August) Summit of Broad Peak (Pakistan)
1996 Autumn Summit of Mt. Ama Dablam (SW Ridge)
1997 Canadian Spring Summit of Mt. Everest via South Col (5)

2000 Spring Summit of Mt. Everest via South Col (6)

2001 Slovenian Autumn Summit of Mt. Everest via South Col (7)

2002 Spring Summit of Mt Everest via the South Col (8)

2003 Spring Summit of Mt Everest via the South Col (9)

2004 Spring Summit of Mt Everest via the South Col (10th!)


He has summited 8000 meter peaks: Everest, Cho Oyu (several times), G2 (1997), Broad Peak (1995)


In his own words, " I was born in-and lived most of my life in-Pangboche, a small villiage in the Solo-Khumbu region of Nepal. Through Wilderness Experience, I have been working with treks for most of my life, and my climbing career started when I was late in my teens. Although I owe a great deal of my mountain climbing income and success to Adventure Consultants, out of NZ, I have worked with many expeditions throughout the years.  I have traveled and worked for many expeditions around the world.  For many years, I have traveled to Norway to guide on the Galdhoepiggen Mountain (the highest mountain in Norway). I currently live in the U.S. with my wife, Michelle Gregory. While I am still adjusting to my new life in Buffalo, NY, I am working on my English and starting the long road to IFMGA certification. I suspect I will be climbing for years to come."

Ang Dorje will probably be always known to the masses at the sirdar of the Rob Hall 1996 Everest Expedition, but to those close to him, they know him better. He is one of the most highly respected climbers on the mountain. 

Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa will be back on Everest in Spring 2005, behind the scenles as usual working so others can take a shot at the top... More on Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa soon!

Q. EverestNews.com: Have you seen the role of elite Sherpas like yourself changing over the last 5-10 years?

A. Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa: With more experience we have more say about what happens on the expedition. We have more opportunity to climb as guides in other places and get the training that western guides get. We spend more time with the clients. For some Sherpa's, if they get sponsorship there is more pressure to do riskier things.

Q. EverestNews.com: If you were free to climb any mountain. Would you climb? And of so what mountain?

A. Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa: Climbing is our income and our job. I am happy to climb if there is a job, but why do risky things if not?

Q. EverestNews.com: What Sherpa climber do (live or dead) you respect the most and why?

A. Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa: My father and my uncle. My uncle was Ang Nuru (he died this year). He was with Japanese ski group in 1979. he lost all his fingers but he still worked very hard until he past and he was also very nice to other people and every festival he sings very nice songs. My father was with Christ Bonington and Doug Scott. He worked on very many a lot expeditions and he was many times in everest but he never had a chance to summit. he never took risks and taught me not to. his is in his 80's and his last expedition was less than 20 years ago.

Q. EverestNews.com: What western climber do (live or dead) you respect the most and why?

A. Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa: Rob hall because he was very nice to Sherpas and he first hired me as a climbing sirdar and gave lots of Sherpas jobs. Pete Athens because he has summited more times than other westerners and in 96 he and Todd Burleson saved my life with oxygen. And ed Viesturs because he was very kind and is a hard worker and carry's as much as Sherpa's and laughs a lot. And guy because he is my close friend and my boss for many years. And now he is helping me get guiding training and more jobs on other mountains.

Q. EverestNews.com: In the Spring of 2000, when you summited with Byron Smith, Was that the toughest day you ever had going up to the Summit of Everest? Tell us more about that day...

A. Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa: The day was not that hard for me and weather was okay, but cold and windy on summit because it was early. but no Sherpas wanted to carry the heavy camera--very heavy camera--or communication things. I'm not sure what it was. but all the other Sherpas were new except one. and I had to carry it all the way to summit. And then we didn't use because it was too cold and windy. Then I had to carry it down. But it was not my hardest day.

Q. EverestNews.com: How would you compare summiting Broad Peak to Everest?

A. Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa: Broad peak was not that difficult for me.

Q. EverestNews.com: How do you like living in America?

A. Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa: I'm very happy learning new things. I never dreamed that I would drive a car everywhere and that my son would grow up not walking everywhere. I have found good work and I like our house. The language is still very difficult, but I am doing good. I feel bad my wife still has to do many things like our taxes.

Q. EverestNews.com: What was your hardest day on Everest?

A. Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa: Well, 1996 after I left rob. and 1995 when we had to drag the French girl all the way from south summit to the south col, me and guy cotter.

Q. EverestNews.com: Many western climbers recall things differently after a Summit day on Everest. They seem to forget many of the small details or get it wrong. Sometimes they argue about who summited and who did not. Any thoughts on this issue?

A. Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa: Its hard to tell with all the masks and gear to tell who people in other groups are. And if people are very tired, they can forget but sometimes westerners are better than sherpa because they care more and they want to record everything and we don't care that much. they spend lot of time discussing things and what they did, but we don't care. especially if not in our group.

Q. EverestNews.com: 1996: You lost your friend Rob Hall. We have been told that you told Mr Hansen to turn around and he would not. Is that True?

A. Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa: yes is true.

Q. EverestNews.com: We also have been told Rob wanted Mr Hansen to turn around. Is that True?

A. Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa: yes is it.

Q. EverestNews.com: What was your hardest summit of Everest when someone did not die?

A. Chhuldim Ang Dorjee Sherpa: 1995 with chantelle

Q. EverestNews.com: What do you make of Sherpas speed climbing Everest?

the year Babu got the speed ascent I tried the day before. My time was the faster to the Hilary step, but there were no lines to the summit so I couldn't go further. At that time when I tried to do the speed record I just think it was for fun. but now I worry that such fast times will make people thing that everest is easy and no big deal and there might be accidents.

Q. EverestNews.com: Apa is going for 15! How many before you retire?

I have no idea. not many more I think.

Q. EverestNews.com: Is there anything you would like to share with our readers of EverestNews.com?

If there is anyone has ideas for me to work in the states, I am very happy to know. I also have been giving slide shows and would be happy to be hired for that too.




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