McKinley in Alaska, the first
episode of the Andalucia America 2005 Expedition
The Council chairman of
Tourism, Commerce and Sports, Paulino Plata wished luck and success to the
Sevillan climbers Juan Antonio Huisa and Pedro Lopez, from C. D. Siete Cumbres
(Seven Summits Sports Club), who face their next challenge, conquering the
roof of the North American continent, the summit of McKinley in Alaska where
they will go next Tuesday, May 24 and where they will stay for a month.
The Council chairman said in
the presentation event, before the departure of the climbers, that "luck is a
key factor in this kind of activity, as well as the weather. Consejería will
continue supporting the project and contributing with economic resources as it
has done in these last three years. Without doubt, expeditions and projects
like this value the effort of the climber and promote mountain climbing in
Andalucia. I sincerely wish that you come back with success".
Juan Antonio Huisa gave
importance to "the support of the media, because of the important impact that
contributes to the support of the sponsors. The project has surpassed the
borders of Andalucia and even the Royal House knows about the project and H.
M. The King could meet us. We have received several awards and we can't
believe it but it makes it worth all the work we are doing and the effort of
taking the Andalucian flag to the highest summits of all the continents".
Pedro Lopez said that they
have done "a good activity of acclimatization and training based on gym work,
bicycle and jogging because one has to face the mountain with a good physical
preparation. It is a very technique mountain, with a lot of altitude to cover
and with Artic weather conditions. We face a fight against vertical walls and
blue sky and a challenge that always has a possibility of failure, that we
hope doesn't happen in this case".
Consejería de Turismo,
Comercio y Deporte sponsors, througe EDPDASA, the Andalucia America 2005
Expedition, whose objective is the McKinley in Alaska and Aconcagua in
Argentina, in the Seven Summits project that has also had the support of
Consejería in previous expeditions. The Expedition also has the sponsorship
of the Municipal Agencies of the City of Sevilla, RTVA and Merkamueble.
Mount McKinley or Denali is
one of the most impressive mountains of the world. Rising like a frozen tower
of 6,194 m. above sea level, it is a great Alpine massif, called Denalli by
the natives. It gathers hundreds of climbers each year, aspiring to reach the
summit of North America, but it is not a mountain that can be reached by
anyone: its logistics, one of the coldest weathers in the world and the
highest altitude to cover in the Earth (more than 4,000 m) make it in a very
serious mountain. The Expedition will develop during the months of May-June,
with the following itinerary, dates and trips:
May 24-25: Departure from
Sevilla to Madrid and boarding to Anchorage, the biggest city in Alaska. The
itinerary will be Sevilla - Madrid - Chicago - Seattle - Anchorage.
May 26-29: Last preparations,
provision stocking, permits, authorizations and bureaucratic paperwork.
Departure by vehicle to Talkeetna, a town 200 Km. to the north of Anchorage
and entrance gate to McKinley. From Talkeena, flight to the base of Mount
McKinley in the Denali National Park. Trip to base camp located at an
altitude of 1,700 meters.
May 29 - June 15: Summit
attempt. The selected route of the ascent is the West Buttress. Camp I at an
altitude of 2,300 m. and some 10 Kms. away, carrying all the needed material
in sledges and snow racquets. Trip to camp II at 3,500 m., this is a hardest
camp, because inclination is steeper. The weather is a hard matter to face,
because the temperature oscillates between 25ºC and -40ºC.
Camp III is at 3,600 m. From
here the ascent is very hard and the path that takes to camp IV at 4,350 m.
has a steeper inclination and a crevasse zone. From camp III the ascent
continues with backpacks on our backs. Passing 4,000 m. 'Windy corner' is
reached, with big nude rocks where snow is swept by the gusts of wind. The
next objective is camp V at 5,000 meters. A great frozen wall known as the
Great Wall or Head Wall, leads to camp V. After a very technical climb in
which there are parts of 85% of inclination and a very hard blue ice, over
which great care has to be taken.
Camp IV is usually the last
camp and is at 5,250 m. in a very aerial zone with ridges exposed to
precipices; the cold and strong wind weakens the strength and resistance of
any climber. The ascent turns very hard because of the accumulated exhaustion
of the previous days and progress is slow until they reach a Col called Denali
Pass at 5,670 m., from where the coveted summit is seen. Again inclination
increases until a ramp of 800 m. is reached, that leads to the final ridge,
the most exposed of all, after along corridor there is an ice protuberance,
the roof of North America, the McKinley, 6,194 m. After reaching the summit,
a hard descent of several days follows.
June 16-23: Several days have
to be reserved in case the weather is not good; and after a flight that takes
us out of the mountain, we return to Talkeetna to rest, and then back again to
Anchorage and Spain, via Anchorage - Dallas - New York - Madrid - Sevilla.
Translated from Spanish by
Sport Everest Boot has made some minor changes by adding
more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High
altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to
-75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads.
Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid
shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and
removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive
fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to
increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate
Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated
Expedition footwear for
mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold. NOTE US
SIZES LISTED. See more here.
weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus
Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight
double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with
a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a
super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the
TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on
steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons
CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura®
upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating
closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated
removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand
See more here.