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  6 Deaths on Everest in 2005



1.) Marko Lihteneker: 7 Summits Club expedition: A low budget commercial expedition

The details of Marko Lihteneker who died on Everest are slowing coming together. Two climbers have confirmed seeing Marko with oxygen problems. The details of his oxygen problem is still unclear at this point. But oxygen systems fail regularly on Everest. According to climbers on the mountain with Marko, he did not have another bottle with him. He had left the other bottle at a spot lower on the mountain to pick it up when he descended. Marko also did not have a Sherpa. Marko was seen trying to work on this oxygen system at the spot where the Chinese found him on their way to the summit a few days ago. It was unclear if Marko was going up or down.

Marko was a member of 7 Summits Club Expedition. We have been talking with Abramov Alexander, Leader of 7 summits club expedition, about what happened. He sent us the following letter which is unedited except corrected spelling in some cases..

Dear  EverestNews, If you wish you can publish my letter

I think it will be useful  for many Everest climbers.


Yes ,we use "POISK " o2. I have boute [bought] all bottles, mask, regulators just new from "POISK" factory in Russia from Maksimov Andrey. I am sure that reason is not in quality  of o2 but in case that o2 finished at normal way and climbers not control well the oxygen volume .


Viktor and Marko started 03;30 from 8300. Victor reported from summit at 12;30 At 13;00-13:30 Viktor meet Marko, who was in 1 hour to summit, so Marko reach summit about 14;30 and begin go down about 15;00 Normally people climb to 2- step about 4 hours, and near this place change 1-st bottle to fool second. If you breathe 2l per minutes all yours 02 should finish in 8 hours.


Try count: Normally pressure in Poisk bottle is 250-260 atmosphere. It meaning that 4l bottle consist about 1000 littre 02. If you use 2l per minute you have 500 minutes before your oxygen finish! 500/60 =  8,33 ( 8 hour 20 minutes)


Before ascent me and all team descuse not one time, that after 2-d step you can go up to summit not more then 5 hours, because you need  2,5-3,0 hours for descend to 2-nd step, so totally 8 hours.

As we see in Marko case hi climb from 2-d step to summit from 7;00 - 7,30  till 14;30 -15;00 (minimum 7 and maximum 8 hours). Of course, his 02 finishing not far from summit...


I hope situation will cleaning [clear] after our team will reach Marko and check his 02 equipment. It can happen in 30 May


Best regards

Abramov Alexander

Leader of 7 summits club

Marko Lihteneker: More details of his death are still coming in since that update; We hope to speak with Alex soon...

2.) Dieter on Kari Kobler's Mount Everest 2005 Expedition: A high dollar commercial expedition

The following was released by the team: Dieter K. climbed up to 8600m and then turned around. At 7900m Dieter K. let the leader know that he wanted to overnight at the 7800m campsite.  On the morning of the 5th, Dieter K was found dead shortly above the campsite tent. The death of our expedition member and friends of Dieter distressed us deeply.  We send his family our deepest regrets." Mt. Everest 2005: Another death on the North side on a commercial team

More information is expected to come out over time, including the answer to the question on how a climber on a high dollar commercial team can die outside of a tent, assuming the report is correct. More sad news...

3.) Squadron Leader S S Chaithanya: After the summits on 30th May in which three members of the IAF team summited Everest from the North [Wg Cdr RC Tripathi (0515h), Sgt NR Chaudhuri (0630h) and Sqn Ldr SS Chaitanya (0945h)].

A rescue operation was started, but there has been no signs of the climber. The news has been released according to a report by the Ministry of Defense. Squadron Leader S S Chaithanya did not come back to high camp after summiting. RC Tripathi and NR Choudhary with their Sherpas arrived at reached camp three at about 7:00 pm. The Sherpa with Squadron Leader Chaithanya reached the camp at around 8:15 pm and informed the team that he had lost contact with Chaithanya. Squadron Leader Chaithanya is still officially reported missing and has not been located.

Squadron Leader S S Chaithanya was late coming down...

South Side:

1.) Rob Milne: Henry Todd's commercial expedition

Rob's expedition leader Henry Todd has sent EverestNews.com the following message: "Just below the Balcony he suddenly collapsed, and was found to have died instantly of a sudden heart attack. This was confirmed by the 3 doctors we have on the team who were climbing with him. He had had no problems prior to this and it was completely unexpected. All his team are shocked and saddened by this turn of events and they are now descending the mountain to Base Camp".

Mt. Everest 2005: Scottish climber Rob Milne dies on Everest details. We knew and had talked with Rob several times. He was a great guy! Sad news..

2.) Mike O'Brien: American Everest expedition which was part of Dan Mazur SummitClimb permit: Mike fell in a crevasse and died.

Mike was criticized by some of the commercial expeditions for falling into the crevasse. What they did not tell you was that at least 2 high budget commercial expeditions on the south side had members fall into crevasses. In both cases the members were alone, in one of the cases the client was a guided client. In both cases the clients lived, and the teams never reported the news. Caveat emptor! Don't believe everything you read, especially some commercial expeditions "press releases". More real details please instead of press releases.

We talked with Mike several times before he left for Everest. Mike was a great guy. He did not want to be hauled up Everest. He wanted to climb it. He died trying. He was a nice guy and was climbing for a great cause.

3.) Dr Sean Egan: Sean died while coming down from base camp after not feeling well.

Several other close calls!! Many as normal! The difference between life and death on Everest can be very close. One of the most interesting close calls was before the climbers ever got to the mountain.



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