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  Ed Viesturs has now summited all the 14 8000 meter peaks


8000 METER PEAKS

Reinhold Messner: "All the 8,000ers have one, nothing else and that is a main summit. According to his or her personal experience, each person must decide by himself or herself where they have been. Always for me the most important thing is not where the others have gone but the experience lived through". 

Erhard Loretan: "This 'race' is a little outside the objective. I do not believe that it is a race between climbers rather it is between the "media". Perhaps I am mistaken. If people want to play, in my opinion, the climber must reach the highest point and without oxygen, of course. In fact, if you have a minimum of ethics, your heart will say to you if your climbing is clean or not. Personally, I went twice to Shishapangma because the first time, in 1990, the route to the main summit was dangerous."

Krzysztof Wielicki: "If we agree that the 14 8,000ers' main summits means that "the highest point" then this always the main summit". 

Carlos Carsolio: "To complete the 14 8,000ers one talks about reaching main summits of the fourteen mountains. These mountains have 21 independent summits of more than 8000 meters, and a considerable amount of "antesummits"  (he considers an antesummit the central top of Shishapangma), if these are subsidiary summits then there are 22). That is to say, to be able to complete the fourteen, you must reach the highest point of each one. An interesting challenge for the generations of the future is to get to complete 21 summits, one of them even remains unclimbed - the Mid Lhotse summit".

The climbers that have reached the Summit of all 14 8000 Meter Peaks.

Reinhold Messner (ITA) in 16 years 1970/86, at age 42.

Jerzy Kukuczka (POL) in 8 years 1979/87 at age 41.

Erhard Loretan (SUI) in 13 years 1982/95 at age 36.

Carlos Carsolio (MEX) in 11 years 1985/96 at age 33.

Krzysztof Wielicki (POl) in 16 years 1980/96 at age 46.

Juan Oiarzabal (Spain) in 14 years 1985/99 at age 43.

Sergio Martini (ITA) in 24 years 1976/2000 at age 49.

Park Young Seok (Korean)

Hong-Gil Um (Korean)

Alberto Inurrategui in 10 years 7 months and 16 days to achieve this feat. All the peaks was climbed without bottled oxygen.

Mr. Han Wang Yong (1966), Ilsan-Gu Kyungi-Do, Korea

Ed Viesturs (American)

Peak Name Height in Meters Location (s) First To Summit
Everest 8848 Nepal/China (Tibet) 1953; Sir E. Hillary, T. Norgay
K2 8611 Pakistan/China 1954; A. Compagnoni, L. Lacedelli
Kangchenjunga 8586 Nepal/India 1955; G. Band, J. Brown
Lhotse 8516 Nepal/China (Tibet) 1956; F. Luchsinger, E. Reiss
Makalu 8463 Nepal/China (Tibet) 1955; J. Couzy, L. Terrary
Cho Oyu 8201 Nepal/China (Tibet) 1954; S. Joechler, H. Tichy, P. Dawa Lama
Dhaulagiri 8167 Nepal 1960; K. Diemberger, P. Diener, M. Dorji, E. Forrer, N. Dorji, A. Schelbert
Manaslu 8163 Nepal 1956; Toshio Imanishi and Gyalzen Norbu Sherpa
Nanga Parbat 8126 Pakistan 1953; H. Buhl
Annapurna I 8091 Nepal 1950; M. Herzog, L. Lachenal
Gasherbrum I 8068 Pakistan/China 1958; Andrew Kaufman, P. Schoening
Broad Peak 8047 Pakistan/China 1957; H. Buhl, K. Diemberger, M. Schmuck, F. Wintersteller
Gasherbrum II 8035 Pakistan/China 1956; Larch, F. Moravec, H. Willenpart
Shishapangma 8027 China (Tibet) 1964; H. Ching & nine climbers

Contact Todd at EverestSpeakersBureau.com 865-525-8008 for more

Ed Viesturs: SEEKING THE HIGHEST PLACES: The Quest to Climb the World's Greatest Mountains

Ed has finish the 14! He will warmed up on Cho Oyu and then headed over to Annapurna. Veikka Gustafsson was again his climbing partner.

Ed Viesturs is widely regarded as this country's foremost high-altitude mountaineer, and one of the all-time "greats" in the world of mountaineering. Familiar to many from the 1996 IMAX Everest Expedition documentary, Ed was awarded the historic Lowell Thomas Award by the Explorer's Club in 2002, for outstanding achievement in the field of mountaineering, along with such notables as Sir Edmund Hillary. Ed has successfully summited all 14 of the world's fourteen 8000 meter peaks without supplemental oxygen. He is one of only a handful of climbers in history (and the only American) to accomplish this.

SEEKING THE HIGHEST PLACES is the inspirational account of Ed's fourteen year pursuit of all the world's peaks above 8000 meters, a goal nearing its culmination. In a presentation tailored to fit the particular concerns of his many and varied corporate audiences, Ed uses spectacular photographs from his 16 years of expedition climbing as breath-taking illustration for his compelling story.

Ed makes a clear and dramatic connection for his audiences between commitment to integrity and superlative achievement. Totally committed to the integrity of his approach to his goals, Ed has elected to forgo using supplemental oxygen on his climbs, making an already extremely difficult endeavor almost beyond human possibility. He does this not to prove anything "macho" or vainglorious, but just the opposite: to climb without oxygen is a direct, often humbling encounter with the true reality of these mountains. "I want to climb the mountain under its own terms," he states. "How I climb a mountain is more important to me than getting to the summit at all costs."

In addition, Ed's fourteen-year quest has encompassed many astounding successes within it, each of which would be the pinnacle of life-time accomplishment for most adventurers. But Ed shares a broader, bigger view of life and of success, with uncommon messages of focus, passion, desire, and patience. These messages, together with Ed's friendly, gently humorous style, make Seeking the Highest Places a deeply inspiring, unforgettable presentation for everyone lucky enough to experience it.

 

Millet One Sport Everest Boot Expedition and mountaineering boot for high altitude and extremely cold conditions. The Everest has conquered all 14 mountains over 8,000m and also the Seven Summits- and has now had a makeover to ensure continued peak preformance. With a newer sung, Alpine Fit, and even lighter Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

 

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

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