Update: The Plan
July 1: Kashgar, Xinjiang, China
July 2: Acclamitization camp
July 4: basecamp
July 5-21: climbing period
July 22: Return Kashgar
Otto Live reporting in dispatch Two
Most members have arrived
Kashgar. Matthew and Ron fly in this evening from Beijing. Leo went to
Tashgerghan several days ago to get a jump on the acclimatization game. We
will pick him up tomorrow at Karakul lake on our way to the mountain. Gary and
Urs safely arrived late last night after their plane from Urumqi turned back
due to a thunderstorm and an impressive electrical storm here in Kashgar. The
short-lived rain was a welcome reprieve from the sweltering Kashgar days we
have been experiencing. I can't wait to get to basecamp and start climbing.
Two of our
Tibetan climbing staff, Wei (our Chinese team member from Lanzhou, Gansu
province), and Jonathan Sullivan went to basecamp on June 28 to start pushing
the route to camp 1. The rest of the members have been exploring Kashgar and
enjoying Uyger food. Last night we walked from our hotel to the Intizar
restaurant for lamb shish kabob, "pull' noodles, lamb with onions, yogurt, and
more lamb. A lot of lamb here.
explored Kashgar's old town, which probably hasn't changed much from several
hundred years ago. We also looked at pictures of the route from our new
basecamp. It seems everyone is psyched to be having our own basecamp away from
the normal crowds and craziness at the traditional basecamp. We leave tomorrow
morning at 9AM Beijing time.
everestnews.com, Jon Otto
Sullivan (USA) - Guide
Charles Kellund (USA)
(USA) - Leader
Xiaoqiang (head cook)
Often Spelled: "Muztagata, or
Mustagh Ata, or Muztaghata, or Muztagh Ata or Muztag Ata" Located in China,
1 July to 23 July , 23 days
in China in 2005, 2006, and 2007.
This is Jonathan Christian
Otto, the leader of Mt. Mustagata (7546 meters, 24,751 feet) this summer for
our SummitClimb expedition. I am in Lhasa right now helping put together our
Everest north expedition. The same strong Tibetan climbers we are using on
Everest we will use on Mustagata to carry equipment up the mountain and set-up
our camps. We hope you will be able to join our international team of men and
women. We have had a lot of success on Mustagata. I have climbed it five times
(4 summits), and our last expedition (July 2004) put 5 members and 2 Sherpas
on the summit..
This year we will place our
basecamp away from the crowd. The normal basecamp is crowded and soiled. At
our new basecamp there will be only a few teams at most (we may be the only
team) which makes for more sanitary conditions and will allow us to
concentrate fully on the climb. From here it is a slightly different route up
to camp 3 than from the normal basecamp. The conditions are very similar –
non-technical, low angle snow slope (10 to 20 degrees) with few crevasses.
Mustagata is a very high
mountain. It is a great way to test your ability to cope with high altitude in
a relatively short period of time.
July is the best time to
climb, as its not so snowy as in June and not so icy as in August. We travel
roped together and everyone on our team is either on snowshoes or skis for
Our fantastic cook staff has
much experience and has been with us for many years. They cook nutritious and
tasty meals and have a great attitude. They do a good job paying attention to
our health and hygiene so we can put our energies towards climbing the
We offer a full-service climb
or a basic climb option. For the full-service climb we supply all mountain
services: Permits, all equipment and food on the mountain (tents, stoves, gas,
ropes, etc.), Sherpa support, basecamp meals, medical supplies, and more. All
you have to bring is your personal climbing clothing, equipment and snack
food. For our basic climb we take care of your permits and get you and your
equipment to basecamp. Then it is up to you on how you wish to climb the
mountain. You will still get access to our detailed route information and
expertise throughout the climb.
Mustagata is part of the
Pamirs on the old Silk Road (present day Karakoram Highway) connecting Kashgar
in China to Islamabad, Pakistan. The local people are Khergiz and Tashiks. The
Khergiz are nomadic shepherds who live in yurts and graze their camels, yaks,
and sheep on the large grasslands around Mustagata, Mt. Gongar, and Karakul
Getting to the mountain is
convenient and you have several options.
1. Fly into China
(Beijing, Shanghai, or Honk Kong) and then take the plane
or train to Kashgar. We will
meet in Kasgar and go to the mountain together.
2. Enter from Bishkek,
Kyrgyzstan overland via the Turugart pass. We will
meet you at the border and
take you to Kashgar.
3. Go overland from
Islamabad along the Karakarum highway and meet us at the mountain.
Most members fly into Kashgar
since this is the most convenient option. Jon Otto and Daniel Mazur
More About Mustagata Leader
Jonathan Christian Otto:
Jon has been on top of
Mustagata 4 times. Thrice by the normal ski-snowshoe route, and once via a
daring new route on the east ridge. He is an extremely experienced leader, a
real gentleman and a strong climber. Jon’s specialty is China and Tibet,
including all of the Himalaya therein. He currently lives in Sichuan, China,
speaks proficient Mandarin, and is a major player in the development of
climbing in China. Jon personally knows and works with all governmental
mountaineering agencies in China and Tibet. He has traveled the length and
breadth of China and Tibet, including many remote and border areas.
His organizational skills are
superb, and he has developed extensive contacts throughout Asia. Jon is a
partner in Arête Alpine Instruction Center, a burgeoning climbing school in
Chengdu which was started to address the needs of the rapidly growing climbing
community in China.
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