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  Mustagh Ata 2005: SummitClimb.com Mustagata Dispatch 3 The plan

Update: The Plan

July 1: Kashgar, Xinjiang, China

July 2: Acclamitization camp

July 4: basecamp

July 5-21: climbing period

July 22: Return Kashgar

Update: Jon Otto Live reporting in dispatch Two

Update: Most members have arrived Kashgar. Matthew and Ron fly in this evening from Beijing. Leo went to Tashgerghan several days ago to get a jump on the acclimatization game. We will pick him up tomorrow at Karakul lake on our way to the mountain. Gary and Urs safely arrived late last night after their plane from Urumqi turned back due to a thunderstorm and an impressive electrical storm here in Kashgar. The short-lived rain was a welcome reprieve from the sweltering Kashgar days we have been experiencing. I can't wait to get to basecamp and start climbing.


Two of our Tibetan climbing staff, Wei (our Chinese team member from Lanzhou, Gansu province), and Jonathan Sullivan went to basecamp on June 28 to start pushing the route to camp 1. The rest of the members have been exploring Kashgar and enjoying Uyger food. Last night we walked from our hotel to the Intizar restaurant for lamb shish kabob, "pull' noodles, lamb with onions, yogurt, and more lamb. A lot of lamb here.


Today we explored Kashgar's old town, which probably hasn't changed much from several hundred years ago. We also looked at pictures of the route from our new basecamp. It seems everyone is psyched to be having our own basecamp away from the normal crowds and craziness at the traditional basecamp. We leave tomorrow morning at 9AM Beijing time.


Thank you everestnews.com, Jon Otto


 Team Roster:

Matthew Philliskirk (UK)

Jaggi Urs Walter (SWITZERLAND)

Jonathan Sullivan (USA) - Guide

Ronald Lester (USA)

Gary Charles Kellund (USA)

Yuan, Wei (CHINA)

Tom Jorgensen (DENMARK)

Leonardo Rub (USA)

Kristine O'brien (USA)

Jon Otto (USA) - Leader


Norwegian Father/Son team:

Espen Bjertness

Marius Bergsmark Bjertness


Tibetan Climbing Staff:

Awang Denje

Dorje Kasang

Tenzing Seeching


Awang Larpu


Cook Staff:

Dang, Xiaoqiang (head cook)




Background: MUSTAGATA

Often Spelled: "Muztagata, or Mustagh Ata, or Muztaghata, or Muztagh Ata or Muztag Ata" Located in China, near K2.

1 July to 23 July , 23 days in China in 2005, 2006, and 2007.

This is Jonathan Christian Otto, the leader of Mt. Mustagata (7546 meters, 24,751 feet) this summer for our SummitClimb expedition. I am in Lhasa right now helping put together our Everest north expedition. The same strong Tibetan climbers we are using on Everest we will use on Mustagata to carry equipment up the mountain and set-up our camps. We hope you will be able to join our international team of men and women. We have had a lot of success on Mustagata. I have climbed it five times (4 summits), and our last expedition (July 2004) put 5 members and 2 Sherpas on the summit..

This year we will place our basecamp away from the crowd. The normal basecamp is crowded and soiled. At our new basecamp there will be only a few teams at most (we may be the only team) which makes for more sanitary conditions and will allow us to concentrate fully on the climb. From here it is a slightly different route up to camp 3 than from the normal basecamp. The conditions are very similar – non-technical, low angle snow slope (10 to 20 degrees) with few crevasses. 

Mustagata is a very high mountain. It is a great way to test your ability to cope with high altitude in a relatively short period of time.

July is the best time to climb, as its not so snowy as in June and not so icy as in August. We travel roped together and everyone on our team is either on snowshoes or skis for additional safety.

Our fantastic cook staff has much experience and has been with us for many years. They cook nutritious and tasty meals and have a great attitude. They do a good job paying attention to our health and hygiene so we can put our energies towards climbing the mountain.

We offer a full-service climb or a basic climb option. For the full-service climb we supply all mountain services: Permits, all equipment and food on the mountain (tents, stoves, gas, ropes, etc.), Sherpa support, basecamp meals, medical supplies, and more. All you have to bring is your personal climbing clothing, equipment and snack food. For our basic climb we take care of your permits and get you and your equipment to basecamp. Then it is up to you on how you wish to climb the mountain. You will still get access to our detailed route information and expertise throughout the climb.

Mustagata is part of the Pamirs on the old Silk Road (present day Karakoram Highway) connecting Kashgar in China to Islamabad, Pakistan. The local people are Khergiz and Tashiks. The Khergiz are nomadic shepherds who live in yurts and graze their camels, yaks, and sheep on the large grasslands around Mustagata, Mt. Gongar, and Karakul Lake.

Getting to the mountain is convenient and you have several options.

1.    Fly into China (Beijing, Shanghai, or Honk Kong) and then take the plane

or train to Kashgar. We will meet in Kasgar and go to the mountain together.

2.    Enter from Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan overland via the Turugart pass. We will

meet you at the border and take you to Kashgar.

3.    Go overland from Islamabad along the Karakarum highway and meet us at the mountain.

Most members fly into Kashgar since this is the most convenient option. Jon Otto and Daniel Mazur

More About Mustagata Leader Jonathan Christian Otto:

Jon has been on top of Mustagata 4 times. Thrice by the normal ski-snowshoe route, and once via a daring new route on the east ridge. He is an extremely experienced leader, a real gentleman and a strong climber. Jon’s specialty is China and Tibet, including all of the Himalaya therein. He currently lives in Sichuan, China, speaks proficient Mandarin, and is a major player in the development of climbing in China. Jon personally knows and works with all governmental mountaineering agencies in China and Tibet. He has traveled the length and breadth of China and Tibet, including many remote and border areas.

His organizational skills are superb, and he has developed extensive contacts throughout Asia. Jon is a partner in Aręte Alpine Instruction Center, a burgeoning climbing school in Chengdu which was started to address the needs of the rapidly growing climbing community in China.  


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