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 SummitOxygen back on Mt Everest for 2005 | ||||||||||||
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| Update 3/14/2005: We have been told there is a factually incorrect report published that stated only one climber has summited Everest using SummitOxygen. While the benefits of SummitOxygen vs other types of oxygen on Everest can be debated, this report that only one climber has summited Everest using SummitOxygen is clearly another case of factually incorrect reporting on Everest. In 2005 the Indian expedition as well as Will Cross are expected to use SummitOxygen. Many commercial teams have a heavy investment in other oxygen equipment (delivery systems). It will be interesting to see how SummitOxygen performs on the mountain in 2005. We have decided to do an oxygen series of articles in the coming months. Our previous update is below.
The SummitOxygen overall worked great for us on the 2004 Mallory and Irvine expedition... We did have to make an adjustment to the equipment at ABC, which was easy and basic for the climbers to do. At ABC we also checked the pressure in each tank BEFORE taking the bottles up the mountain. One bottle was empty, or more likely had a bad valve. The others bottles had varying amounts of pressure, which we noted. The oxygen once up on the mountain worked excellent, one climber reported getting 21 hours out of a bottle! It is unclear what his flow rate was. Caution to others: You should remember that this oxygen is highly flammable, smoking should be avoided around it. We would recommend people spend time using it before summit day, to get to know the equipment, and check your bottles before you go high!. Caution using other oxygen: We would recommend people spend time using it before summit day, to get to know the equipment, and check your bottles before you go high! Year after year we hear of people with bad valves on bottles that appear empty, check it before you go high! Of course, there are a few who blame the equipment when maybe that was not the real issue. SummitOxygen, again worked great for us! Over time it could be a significant change in Mt Everest climbing. Many commercial expeditions have much invested in the old system, therefore don't expect a quick change. Time also should be taken to learn the new system. For much more on SummitOxygen and the advantages see here for their web site.
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