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  SummitOxygen back on Mt Everest for 2005


Update 3/14/2005: We have been told there is a factually incorrect report published that stated only one climber has summited Everest using SummitOxygen. While the benefits of SummitOxygen vs other types of oxygen on Everest can be debated, this report that only one climber has summited Everest using SummitOxygen is clearly another case of factually incorrect reporting on Everest.

In 2005 the Indian expedition as well as Will Cross are expected to use SummitOxygen. Many commercial teams have a heavy investment in other oxygen equipment (delivery systems). It will be interesting to see how SummitOxygen performs on the mountain in 2005. We have decided to do an oxygen series of articles in the coming months. Our previous update is below.

SummitOxygen has developed some new systems for 2005 (see above for one of them). Of course in 2004 Ms. Randi Skaug used the system to summit Everest in 2003 the British expedition used to the system to summit Everest. Others did not summit using the system... Of course other climbers did not summit using others systems also. There is no historical stats on oxygen success with different systems. And of course it is not always the oxygen!!!

Below is our experience for 2004. As you should with everything: test, go slow, learn and listen.

 

PD100 Oxygen System click on the numbered squares for data card details.

The SummitOxygen overall worked great for us on the 2004 Mallory and Irvine expedition... We did have to make an adjustment to the equipment at ABC, which was easy and basic for the climbers to do. At ABC we also checked the pressure in each tank BEFORE taking the bottles up the mountain. One bottle was empty, or more likely had a bad valve. The others bottles had varying amounts of pressure, which we noted.

The oxygen once up on the mountain worked excellent, one climber reported getting 21 hours out of a bottle! It is unclear what his flow rate was.

Caution to others: You should remember that this oxygen is highly flammable, smoking should be avoided around it. We would recommend people spend time using it before summit day, to get to know the equipment, and check your bottles before you go high!.

Caution using other oxygen: We would recommend people spend time using it before summit day, to get to know the equipment, and check your bottles before you go high!

Year after year we hear of people with bad valves on bottles that appear empty, check it before you go high! Of course, there are a few who blame the equipment when maybe that was not the real issue.

SummitOxygen, again worked great for us! Over time it could be a  significant change in Mt Everest climbing. Many commercial expeditions have much invested in the old system, therefore don't expect a quick change. Time also should be taken to learn the new system. For much more on SummitOxygen and the advantages see here for their web site.

Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.

A cold weather, high altitude double boot for extreme conditions The Olympus Mons is the perfect choice for 8000-meter peaks. This super lightweight double boot has a PE thermal insulating inner boot that is coupled with a thermo-reflective outer boot with an integrated gaiter. We used a super insulating lightweight PE outsole to keep the weight down and the TPU midsole is excellent for crampon compatibility and stability on steep terrain. WEIGHT: 39.86 oz • 1130 g LAST: Olympus Mons CONSTRUCTION: Inner: Slip lasted Outer: Board Lasted OUTER BOOT: Cordura® upper lined with dual-density PE micro-cellular thermal insulating closed cell foam and thermo-reflective aluminium facing/ Insulated removable footbed/ Vibram® rubber rand See more here.

 






 

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