Update May 30th, 2005: The has headed home from the Hornbein
Couloir and it appears Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has found her way over to the
normal route as a woman looking very much like her was seen there... Stay
Tuned... to see if that is confirmed...
Earlier Update: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
(Austria), Ralf Dujmovits (Germany) and Hirotaka Takeuchi (Japan) and their
reporter (s) has arrived at Everest to attempt what they appear to be calling
the "supercouloir", which is what we understand has been called the Hornbein
Couloir or sometimes referred to as the Japanese Couloir/Hornbein Couloir to
the rest of the world. The Japanese first summited by this route in 1980. Of
course the very strong
Czech expedition is
currently attempting the Hornbein Couloir. The Czech have fixed ropes to
Camp 2. But, of course, if Gerlinde, Ralf and Hirotaka
want to "alpine style", as the press reports is their plan, they would need to climb beside the Czech route and not
use the Czech ropes...
With that said, in recent years some climbers have made
claims of "alpine style" ascents using fixed ropes.... Some even SOLO claims,
when other climbers put in the ropes they "alpine styled" to the summit!
[Hype, hype, hype... it does get real old.]
We are sure Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
(Austria), Ralf Dujmovits (Germany) and Hirotaka Takeuchi (Japan) know what
alpine style is. It will be an interesting climb.
Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet, two
of the greatest climbers to ever walk on the face of the earth, summited the
Hornbein Couloir in 31 hours [need to check time] alpine style in 1986.
Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet, climbed many
mountains in true alpine style.... If we recall correctly they descended
Everest in about 3 1/2 hours.. a great story from two truly great climbers.
(Austria), Ralf Dujmovits (Germany) and Hirotaka Takeuchi (Japan) claimed an
ascent via the south face
of Shishapangma in alpine style according to press reports. It is unclear if they used ropes at all on
the climb up. They descended the North side, where earlier other had summited
and fixed ropes.
Previous Update: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner
(Austria), Ralf Dujmovits (Germany) and Hirotaka Takeuchi (Japan) reached Main
Summit of Shishapangma 7th of May. They ascend via the south face in alpine
style and descend the north side with all equipment. Weather was very bad, so
they needed 6 days and 4 bivouacs. Gerlinde claims the first women who was
able to climb the whole south wall on Shishapangma. We will need to check this
fact when the time permits. There are several teams on
Shishapangma. We will update
Update: We are unsure what
route they took as there are several routes with variations up the SW face,
but Chantal Mauduit summited the Main Summit of Shishapangma via the SW face
in 1993. 12 years ago, so this is certainly not the first summit of
Shishapangma via the SW face. Sorry.. With so many summits of Shishapangma, a
first by the SW face route seemed unlikely... The above graphic shows some
some of the routes on Shishapangma.
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