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 Everest Supercouloir Alpine Style/ Everest Hornbein Couloir climb/ maybe the Normal route? | |||||||||
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Update May 30th, 2005: The has headed home from the Hornbein Couloir and it appears Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner has found her way over to the normal route as a woman looking very much like her was seen there... Stay Tuned... to see if that is confirmed... Earlier Update: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (Austria), Ralf Dujmovits (Germany) and Hirotaka Takeuchi (Japan) and their reporter (s) has arrived at Everest to attempt what they appear to be calling the "supercouloir", which is what we understand has been called the Hornbein Couloir or sometimes referred to as the Japanese Couloir/Hornbein Couloir to the rest of the world. The Japanese first summited by this route in 1980. Of course the very strong Czech expedition is currently attempting the Hornbein Couloir. The Czech have fixed ropes to Camp 2. But, of course, if Gerlinde, Ralf and Hirotaka want to "alpine style", as the press reports is their plan, they would need to climb beside the Czech route and not use the Czech ropes... With that said, in recent years some climbers have made claims of "alpine style" ascents using fixed ropes.... Some even SOLO claims, when other climbers put in the ropes they "alpine styled" to the summit! [Hype, hype, hype... it does get real old.] We are sure Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (Austria), Ralf Dujmovits (Germany) and Hirotaka Takeuchi (Japan) know what alpine style is. It will be an interesting climb. Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet, two of the greatest climbers to ever walk on the face of the earth, summited the Hornbein Couloir in 31 hours [need to check time] alpine style in 1986. Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet, climbed many mountains in true alpine style.... If we recall correctly they descended Everest in about 3 1/2 hours.. a great story from two truly great climbers. Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (Austria), Ralf Dujmovits (Germany) and Hirotaka Takeuchi (Japan) claimed an ascent via the south face of Shishapangma in alpine style according to press reports. It is unclear if they used ropes at all on the climb up. They descended the North side, where earlier other had summited and fixed ropes. Previous Update: Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner (Austria), Ralf Dujmovits (Germany) and Hirotaka Takeuchi (Japan) reached Main Summit of Shishapangma 7th of May. They ascend via the south face in alpine style and descend the north side with all equipment. Weather was very bad, so they needed 6 days and 4 bivouacs. Gerlinde claims the first women who was able to climb the whole south wall on Shishapangma. We will need to check this fact when the time permits. There are several teams on Shishapangma. We will update later. Update: We are unsure what route they took as there are several routes with variations up the SW face, but Chantal Mauduit summited the Main Summit of Shishapangma via the SW face in 1993. 12 years ago, so this is certainly not the first summit of Shishapangma via the SW face. Sorry.. With so many summits of Shishapangma, a first by the SW face route seemed unlikely... The above graphic shows some some of the routes on Shishapangma.
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