“After a very long
and tiresome trip that took us from Sevilla to Madrid – it is overwhelming
to see how the T4 was left –, and from there to Doha , Qatar , where we
boarded again to Singapore and lastly to Jakarta , Indonesia .
It took us almost
16 hours on the air and the trip lasted one day and a half. We were picked
up at the airport and they took us to the hotel, to start preparing the
luggage for the mountain quickly and they informed us that we were
supposed to leave in 4 hours to Papua.
We will arrive
there at Timika and we will be transported by 4x4 to Cebra Wall (3 hours)
and from that point we will start the march to Base Camp (5 h.). That
means we will climb to almost 4,000m in one try, so we will climb with no
time to acclimatize. And also when we get to Base Camp we will have 3
days without sleeping.
The program is very
tight, because of the multiple bureaucratic complications that this
country has, so we have 8 days to get there, attempt the summit and go
back to Spain , a record.
We thought that the
group of the expedition would have 5 members, as they told us, but the
guide told us some of them didn’t show up, so it is just Pedro, me and an
Frenchman. We have a lot of doubts, but we are very clear that we have to
go get the summit”.
Juan A. Huisa
Spanish by Jorge Rivera
Earlier: The climbers
from Sevilla will leave on the early morning of Thursday toward Indonesia
climbers from Sevilla (Spain), Juan Antonio Huisa and Pedro López, will leave
on the early morning of next Thursday 25 to Indonesia to face the challenge of
the Cartensz Pyramid. They were there on 2003 trying to climb the highest
peak of Indonesia and Oceania but the unstable situation of the country and
problems with the guerrillas kept Huisa and Lopez even from seeing the
mountain. This 5,030m mountain has been closed for several years and it looks
like it was recently open, but under very exhaustive controls and the permits
require a great amount of money, and they don’t guarantee the possibility of
highest peak of Oceania is not really defined, that means there are two
opinions on which is the continental roof. For political reasons some say the
highest peak of Oceania should be in Australia , which occupies the largest
part of the oceanic continent, so if it was so, the highest peak should be
Kosciusko, 2,228m, and also Indonesia belongs to Asia and not to Oceania .
The second opinion, because of geographical and geological reasons, assures
that the Carstenz Pyramid is on the island of New Guinea ( Indonesia ) and
that it belongs to the same tectonic layer as Australia , so it is part of the
oceanic continent, although politically it belongs to Asia . So the climbers
who make this ‘seven summits’ project avoid controversy by climbing both.
López crowned Mount Kosciusko in Australia in 2003, and from there they left
to Jakarta (the capital of Indonesia ) with the intention of climbing the
inaccessible pyramid. After being greeted by the Spanish ambassador himself,
he begged them not to fly to New Guinea, because the situation was very
hostile, but being already on the other end of the world they could not turn
around without even trying; so they flew to New Guinea and after landing on
Jajapura, they rented a private plane where the climbers barely fit inside
with the pilot and the material, and they arrived to Ilaga, in the heart of
the jungle. When they got off the plane they found another civilization,
another age, the clothes of the people were just feathers on their heads and a
cane that hid their penis, called “Koteka”. The inhabitants of the primitive
tribes of the zone lived in the Neolithic era, in the jungle, with guerrilla
problems that want the independence from the government of Jakarta . The army
cut their way and mentioning security reasons they didn’t let them pass and
they were there for four days without being able to move away from the zone.
ago the climbers of CD Siete Cumbres got a call telling them the possibility
of starting the expedition, which begins day after tomorrow after making
preparations in record time. The group is made by a guide, a cook, the two
climbers from Sevilla, two Americans, two Frenchmen and one more climber.
Uneasy because of the situation they lived on 2003, and knowing that
Indonesia is a chaotic country, Huisa and López will leave at 6:30 on Thursday
25 to Madrid, where they will catch a flight to Doha (the capital of Qatar),
they will continue to Singapore (the capital of Malaysia) and from there to
Jakarta (the capital of Indonesia). A very long trip to the other end of the
world. Once on the capital of Indonesia they will take domestic flights to
get to Timika, on the island of New Guinea, from where the expedition will
leave to the mountain.
from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
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