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 Seven Summits Club:  Boris Summits Cho Oyu at 72!


Boris Korshunov on the top of Cho Oyu

2th October at 16:00 Boris Korshunov has climbed Cho Oyu at the age of 72 (born 31.08.1935). He started from tha camp 2 (7100 m) at 9 a.m. intending to overnight in the camp 3 (7500m). At 12 a.m. he reached the place of camp 3 but could not find his tent. Then the russian veteran-climber decided to go to the summit the same day. He was on the summit of Cho Oyu at 4 p.m. and went back to the camp 2.

Next day Boris descended to ABC to be congratuled by his friends from Alex Abramov expedition

Earlier: After a night in the camp 2 Alex Abramov and his team finished their acclimatization program and started to go down. In the first steep part they saw a man falling down the steep snow slope. He was stopped in the flat part and it appears that he has broken leg. It was a leader of expedition from Taiwan, he is name is John. It seems that his team was frostbitten after summit climb. Alex with help of Sherpas and team members started a rescue work. They has a big difficult during crossing the second steep part (seracs) but managed to lower without big delay. Later Spanish doctor Augusto met the rescue team and made a necessary injection to John.

They managed to reach the camp 1 at 6400 m to the darkness. Then Tibetan porters took part in rescue and lowered Taiwanian through the «killer slope» to the ABC camp. Late in the evening the team of Alex came to the camp too. Everything finished quite well. The weather is very good and Alex hope to start summit bid in 3-4 days.

Earlier: Now we are in camp 2 of Cho Oyu 7100 meters. Today we have made heavy climb from 6400 on 7100 m. Probably, it is the most difficult part of whole ascent. The part has seemed very long.. It takes about 9 hours. For the first of us it takes seven, and for the last it was about 9 hours. But, all team is here, and all - in good conditions.

Now we are sitting in our comfortable tents, Sherpas are cooking, in general all is excellent! The main thing: the weather is good today ! It is the time during our expedition. We called in Katmandu, there was also the first day without rains. It appears that the weather has improved. It is getting more cool, but it is so clear, that we could see all Himalaya ridge.

Certainly, it is very pity to see, how expeditions of leading world operators leave downwards. Now it would be possible to go on climb, but they have no time according their plans of expedition. Under our plan, we spend a night in camp two and tomorrow will descent in АВС. After that we will stay four nights in ABC and wait for good weather.

Boris Korshunov (74 years old) is in the camp with us. He works in an international expedition of Asian Trekking. Today he spends a night in camp 2, tomorrow goes to the camp 3 and the day after tomorrow plans to go for the summit. Boris tries to establish records of speed each time. I told him, that it is more reasonable to be more prudent. He has climbed from camp 1 to camp 2 for 2:31. I told, that for him it was better come without forcing for 4 hours. But Boris Korshunov does not want compromises!

With best regards,

Alex Abramov
7 Summits-Club - Alpindustria

Earlier: AN ACCLIMATIZATION EXIT TO THE CAMP 1

On September, 26th our team has made an acclimatization exit to the camp 1 on the height of 6400 meters. The weather was very bad. Leaving camp ABC, we have not been assured, that we can reach camp one. When have realized that we could make it, we have asked our Sherpas to bring products. The camp 1 has seriously suffered during bad weather. Many tents are torn, things are scattered. We have been forced to spend a night there. It was very cold, and in the morning we have hastened to go down in АВС.

Singapore women: Cho Oyu Summit! 27 Sept 07  

   The Singapore Women`s Everest Team marked another successful expedition by summiting Cho Oyu (8,201m) on 23rd Sept. Fully acclimatized and using supplementary oxygen, the team set off for the summit at 1.30am on 23rd September from Camp 3 at 7,500m. Team leader, Jane Lee, 23, arrived at the summit at 10.20am, followed by team members Lee Li Hui, 26, Joanne Soo, 37 and co-leader, Sim Yi Hui, 25. The team`s expedition doctor, Dr. Mok Ying Jang, 40, also made the summit shortly after. Team member Lee Peh Gee, 31, arrived at the summit plateau at 8180m, but turned back just before the summit due to dwindling oxygen supply.

Team leader, Jane Lee, says, “I am extremely elated that our expedition has turned out so well. Not only has the team summitted, all members are also in good health. The success of this expedition speaks volumes of our months of training and preparation. The team is deeply grateful to all our base camp manager, Mr Lim Kim Boon, 43, as well as to our supporters and well-wishers who have been climbing the mountain with us every step of the way.”

Although the team summitted in perfect weather, the descent turned out to be more challenging as the weather on Cho Oyu proved to be volatile and changed for the worse within a matter of hours. The team braved a descent in visibility of less than five meters and with wind speeds gusting up to 70km/h. Fortunately, all team members made it down the mountain safely, in good health and in high spirits.

The triumphant completion of this expedition marks an important phase of the team`s training as Cho Oyu is often climbed in preparation for Everest. During the Cho Oyu climb, teams test out their oxygen systems, communications equipment and assess their physical response to being at high altitude.

This successful expedition would not have been possible without the help and support from our climbing Sherpas, Kami, Mingma Tenzing, Kama Rita, Nima Karma, Jamling and Phinjo Dorje. We would also like to thank all our sponsors and supporters back home for all their encouragement and well wishes.

Alex Abramov

Earlier: MARAT SAFIN WENT TO DAVIS CUP

Marat Safin took a decision to return to Moscow for supporting the Russian Team on Davis Cup semi-final. It was not easy, but a correct decision. During travel, Marat has made two simple ascents and has passed from Katmandu up to the base camp Cho Oyu. "It was surprising travel to Tibet. I have a perfect rest, I was restored, has gained strength and confidence. Now I am ready to new victories on courts " - have told Маrат, saying goodbye to his friends from the Seven Summits Club – Alpindustria expedition. Rest of team will go to the ABC camp tomorrow.

The team is on Base camp

Today, on September, 19th, our team has gathered in our supercomfortable base camp Cho Oyu (about 5000 m high). Even Evgeny Semionov (who had problems with visas), has caught up with us. He has arrived today on a jeep together with expedition from Latvia. Just today our Sherpas, having loaded 1800 kg on 30 yaks, have gone to the intermediate camp. In the base camp I have met the officer of communication, my good friend, Mr. Samdu. We work with him it last 4 years in the Base camp of Everest.

Best regards, Alex Abramov

MARAT SAFIN: LETTER FROM KATMANDU

To all my fans out there - I am writing to you from Katmandu. Yes a lot of you have heard already that I was on my way to my exciting adventure to climb Cho-Oyu, a mountain in the Himalayas in the Tibet.
I feel it is important for me to fully describe to you what has been going on with me in the last few weeks as well as what are my future plans.
It is you guys who have always been an important role in my career and always been there to support me through difficult times and the oh so sweet victories. We have shared lots of times.

As you will remember I started the US Hardcourt season in Los Angeles where I also began my association with my new coach Hernan Gumy.
I would personally like to say that the co-operation with Hernan is an excellent one. I think he`s a great coach and I`m delighted with the work we do together. It is only thanks to the confidence I have in him that has allowed me to go ahead with this step that I have taken and to be where I am now.

Through out the 8 weeks in the US we really tried to work on my game again. To change my game tactics to where I will be playing again my old tennis style meaning playing faster tennis, shorter points, hard hitting and playing more on the baseline rather than playing two metres away from it as I felt I was playing the last 1 and 1/2 years. I really did feel that things were improving but unfortunately through the 1st round match at the US Open - I felt again the pain in my left wrist - the same one that first started bothering me in 2003. At first I wasn`t too bothered with that but during my 2nd round match, the pain got me out of focus and I felt that instead of concentrating on the match, I was solely thinking of the implications of going through all the pain and problems again.

My orthopeadic surgeon Dr. Feder from Los Angeles - flew into New York and examined me after the match. His diagnosis was a relief for me. He said I will only need 4-6 weeks rest. Luckily no extra damage had been made and I should be completely fine after that.

Talking with my coach we have realised that this season is over for me and we have made plans which I would love to share with you with regard to the preparations for coming back to next year a better player and stronger and in overall better shape. When I got back to Moscow and my doctors in Moscow confirmed the same as Dr. Feder, the opportunity occurred to me to join the mountaineering delegation which includes some of my closest friends and I felt for the first time that this is something I really want to do outside of my tennis career.

This is not some simple vacation on the beach. I know that the physical challenge of climbing is huge. With the unique atmosphere and being away from civilisation - hopefully this will renew my resolve and my powers for tennis.
I want this to be a special experience and it is something which deep down inside I wanted to do for a long time.
Before leaving on this expedition, I ensured to close a deal with Gumy until the end of 2008 and only after he agreed and supported me in taking this step did I feel happy to carry on with my plans.

I have planned to be away for 4-6 weeks. I am truly very sorry that I will be missing the Davis Cup semi final tie which I am sure my fellow countrymen will be able to overcome even without me. At least I can say I have contributed a bit to the efforts with my trip to Chile in the beginning of the year and in the 1/4`s against France I played a small role in beating Mathieu.

Gumy and I are meant to get together in Moscow at the end of October to start practising and in early November we will fly to Valencia and possibly to South America to get properly ready for the new challenge in 2008.

I can assure you all my friends and supporters that I still have in me the desire to try and make it again to the top of this game and I hope that all of you guys will be there to support me in my efforts to this.

I will definitely miss you all in the next few weeks and I ask you to support and cross your fingers for the success of my fellow Russians in the team in the Davis Cup semi final.

I will see you all again real soon.
From me somewhere above the roof of the world.
Peace to you all Marat

Earlier: Our team has gathered in our supercomfortable base camp Cho Oyu (about 5000 m high). Even Evgeny Semionov (who had problems with visas), has caught up with us. He has arrived today on a jeep together with expedition from Latvia. Just today our Sherpas, having loaded 1800 kg on 30 yaks, have gone to the intermediate camp. In the base camp I have met the officer of communication, my good friend, Mr. Samdu. We work with him it last 4 years in the Base camp of Everest. Best regards, Alex Abramov

CLIMB IN XEGAR: September, 17th, we have moved through the pass of Lalung La (5100 meters high) on which all have felt attributes of mountain illness. Our command has gone down in very exotic small town Old Tingri (4200м). Directly in the street here mutton corps are dried and cows eat the rests of cardboard boxes. After dinner, we have gone in the city of Xegar (4200м) where have spent the night.

Today under our plan of acclimatization, we have made an ascent on a mount near Xegar (4700м) - practically as high as Mont Blanc. Near the top we should climb loose rocks, unpleasant moment that ends well.

Marat was strong and climbed very well, he feels very good. We all are very friendly with him, he is perfectly entered in our team. The weather in Tibet is warm, but unstable. The beginning of thunder-storm has banished us from the top. September, 20 we leave for the base camp Cho Oyu, which must be ready. Our Sherpas are waiting for us and have started to prepare the climbing route. Unfortunately in a part from Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp there will be no internet or telephone connection. Best regards, Alex Abramov

 

RECEPTION In the RUSSIAN EMBASSY...

Before departure in Tibet our expedition has visited the Russian Embassy in Nepal. We were invited in Apartments of the Ambassador of Russia in Nepal Andrey Trofimov. An interesting conversation was held. Valery Babanov and Sergey Kofanov also were present at the meeting. In few days they will start for a new route on the North Face of Jannu.

September, 16.

Today at night, the team has moved from Zhangmu to a small town of Nialam (3600м), situated in gorge among high mountains. The way passes by a bad road heavy loaded by lorries. Now the road is under repair for Olympiad. After breakfast we have gone on an acclimatization climb on the nearest summit (under the name Murat) 4100 м high.

The strong wind blew all the way up and at the top the rain has started. Having gone down to Nialam, all members of team have intimately congratulated Marat. It was the first climbed summit in his life. Tomorrow we will go to Shigar, which is located at height 4200 meters.

Today in the morning we have said goodbye to ours Sherpas which have gone by two lorries forward to establish Base camp at height 5100м. Best regards from Nialam. Alex Abramov



September 11, main part of members “7Summits Club – Alpindustria” expedition came to Nepal. This team will climb under the leadership of Alexander Abramov. The aim is to climb the sixth highest mountain in the world by classic route from Tibet side.
In expedition take part Russian Tennis star Marat Safin.


Expedition members:
Alex Abramov – guide and leader (9 Himalayan expeditions, 2 times Everest Summiteer, Cho-Oyu Summiteer)
Dmitry Moskalev – co-leader (5 Himalayan expeditions, Everest and Xixapangma Summiteer)
Alexander Chesnokov – co-leader assistant
Yury Beloivan
Konstantin Zhelezov
Igor Kosarev
Evgeny Semenov
Marat Safin – Russian Tennis Star

For Marat Safin this is the 1st mountain in his life.
Hopefully to his many victories in tennis Marat will add one more victory on the 6th highest mountain in the world.

 


Photo Left to right
Yuri Beloivan – expedition member
Alex Abramov – expedition leader
Ludmila Korobeshko – mountain guide, Russian female climbing star, 1st female climber in Moscow and 3rd Russian female climber on top of Everest
Marat Safin – expedition member, Russian Tennis Star
During buying equipment for Cho-Oyu in “Alpindustria” shop in Moscow

 



 

 

Earlier: START OF CHO-OYU EXPEDITION

7th September “Seven Summits Club – Alpindustria” Cho-Oyu expedition started. Alexander Abramov has taken off for Katmandu for preparation of expedition. 11th September, 8 other participants of trip should join him. In total it will be 7 climbers from Moscow and one of Sakhalin in a command. The aim is to climb the sixth highest mountain in the world by the classic route from Tibet side.

Expedition members:

Alex Abramov – guide and leader (9 Himalayan expeditions, 2 times Everest Summiteer, Cho-Oyu Summiteer)

Dmitry Moskalev – co-leader (5 Himalayan expeditions, Everest and Xixapangma Summiteer)

Alexander Chesnokov – co-leader assistant

Yury Beloivan

Konstantin Zhelezov

Igor Kosarev

Evgeny Semenov

 
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