Triptych” Reactivated – part one: mBank Annapurna West Face Expedition.
Triptych Reactivated" has begun! After one-day delay caused by the airline,
the team has left Warsaw airport this morning to start the first part of their
expedition, i.e. the attempt at first ever repeat of the Czech route on the
north-west face of Annapurna - the tenth highest peak in the world (8091
metres above the sea level).
The aim of
the expedition is to repeat for the first time the Czech route on the
north-west face of Annapurna – the tenth highest peak of the world (8091
metres above sea level). For Piotr Pustelnik it will also be the chance to
finish the Crown of the Himalayas – the fourteen highest mountains in the
world rising above 8000 metres. Piotr has already ascended thirteen of the
Crown of the Himalayas peaks and Annapurna is the only one remaining. So far
only thirteen people have managed to capture all fourteen jewels in the Crown…
being one of the lowest eight-thousanders, Annapurna is definitely one of the
most dangerous mountains in the world. By the year 2005, only 103 people have
reached its summit while 56 have died attempting it. The Annapurna’s extensive
massive consists of six main summits: the main one (8091m) as well as five
others rising over 7000m. Interestingly, it was the first eight-thousander
ever climbed – Maurice Herzog and Louise Lachenal have conquered it on 3rd
June 1950. Eight Polish mountaineers have repeated this feat so far:
Artur Hajzer & Jerzy Kukuczka (first winter ascent)
1991 – Bogdan
Stefko, Krzysztof Wielicki, Wanda Rutkiewicz, Ryszard Pawlowski and Mariusz
Expeditions have already tried to reach the summit three times, including
twice (in 2004 and 2005) along the Bonnington’s route on the south face. In
2006, the “Himalayan Triptych” made up of Piotr Pustelnik, Piotr Morawski
(Poland), Peter Hamor (Slovakia) and Don Bowie (USA) focused their efforts on
the eastern ridge of Annapurna that had been climbed merely twice before.
However, Peter Hamor was the only one to reach the main summit on 21st May
while Piotr Pustelnik and Piotr Morawski got as far as the eastern summit
(8010m). They turned back to rescue a Tibetan climber afflicted by snow
Piotr Pustelnik decided to return to Annapurna with a tried-and-tested team
consisting of himself as the main coordinator, Peter Hamor, Piotr Morawski and
Dariusz Zaluski, who will have the double role of a film maker. They have
chosen the Czech route (also called “Gabbarrova”) on the north-west face of
Annapurna. It has been climbed only once by Nezerka and Martis in 1988.
- a relatively easy to climb mountain in the Himalaya
range of eastern Nepal (6812 metres) – is to be the place for the team’s high
altitude acclimatisation before their main effort. The expedition sets off on
15th March from Warsaw
and will stay acclimatising on Ama Dablam till mid April. They will then be
transported with a helicopter to their base camp beneath the north face of
Annapurna. Their return is planned for 7th May.
Pustelnik has been climbing in the highest mountains since 1985, ascended all
but one eight-thousand-metre high peak and has participated in many
expeditions in the Himalayas, Karakorum, and all over the world.
Hamor, the best Slovakian mountaineer has ascended five eight-thousanders (two
of them as the first ever Slovak), and has conquered the Crown of the World
(the highest mountains of each of the seven continents).
Morawski has climbed four eight-thousanders and was the first to ascend Shisha
Pangma in winter.
Zaluski has climbed four eight-thousanders and has taken part in many winter
expeditions; he combines climbing with professional film-making and has
authored many award-winning documentaries about the highest mountains of the