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Dhaulagiri,
Thursday, April 3, 2008
IN THE MIDDLE OF
NOTHING
I couldn't have
said it better, we are trapped in the middle of nothing. Above, a journey to
get to base camp, by a very dangerous trail because of the large amount of
snow that has fallen. Below, the valley we left, covered with clouds and with
bad weather. Our porters have ran away after seeing the current conditions
and the helicopter can't fly to take us with our loads to base camp, well
above 1,000 meters up. We couldn't make anything, not without waiting and see
how the weather changes. It was better yesterday, but this morning, sitting
on these stones, waiting for the big iron bird to save us, our hope is
fading. While time passed by, larger clouds appeared and by lunch time the
snow feel on our improvised camp.
Tomorrow we will
repeat the ritual, we will unmount everything and we will wait for the weather
to calm, just for a few hours, early. Let's see if there is luck and if it is
enough to reach our destination. We need to get to base camp, mount our home,
which is going to be home for a long time, rest and start a new chapter in
this expedition. All this makes us think that an expedition is a lot of
things and always there is something bad with one of them and that disturbs
our spirit. We are going to be optimistic and we will hope for the best, that
maybe we will soon enjoy the arrival to our destination, the end of our long
trip to the most far away point from the civilization that we know of.
Carlos Pauner
Translated form
Spanish by Jorge Rivera
Dhaulagiri,
Sunday, April 06, 2008
BELIEVE IT OR
NOT
Such are things
in the Himalayas. When you think that, after so many expeditions nothing can
surprise you, an event comes and it does in a hard way. Our approach to base
camp has not been, after all, what you could call easy. It is true that right
now, we are resting with all our equipment here at this place 4,700 m of
altitude, in the such called Dhaulagiri Base Camp. But to get here we have
lived a very hard to imagine odyssey. On Friday we were at 3,600 m of
altitude, blocked by the snow and with no porters. Aware of our poor
situation, we had decided to call a helicopter to carry all our load to our
final destination. After a day of waiting, this Friday morning, although
late, that monster Russian apparatus that cruises the skies of Nepal came. It
made two trips, fully loaded, to carry our colleagues of Al Filo (de lo
Imposible, of Televisión Española), because they had been waiting for 5 days
in this place and our turn came. We loaded the rig with all our equipment and
the bird attempted to take off. Impossible. The pilot said we had to leave
400 kg of weight there. We opted to leave some kerosene and rice. It was too
hot at that time of the morning, sustentation was low, the chopper was heavy
and it was not possible to control during landing. I could not avoid goose
bumps, to remember how 2 days ago, in this very same place, we crashed on the
ground with a similar rig, although we miraculously saved our lives. The
pilot aborted the maneuver and turned with no doubt, to Pokhara, where we
landed by noon. Incredible. We were with all our equipment, wearing our
mountain clothes and with goofy faces, in this pretty town where our trekking
had started one week ago. The pilot said he was sorry, but he felt he could
not land safely. We were left for a while with no idea what to do, heated up
because of the tropical temperature, watching how our things were unloaded.
We had changed from being in base camp to be back to the beginning. I could
not believe it.
Luckily, we made
the right paperwork and on the next day, very early, we rented a new flight to
base camp, where we arrived without trouble, although, I could not believe it
until I stepped on the ground. We are here now. This troubled trip has ended
and, although it snows endlessly and the weather is hellish, we are happy
because we start the fundamental part of our expedition to Dhaulagiri. We
have lived days of incertitude, of edgy flights between cliffs and glaciers,
of risk, of carrying loads from here to there, of desperation and uneasiness.
Luckily everything has passed. We are safe in our little home and although we
have not been able to mount it the way we want, we hope to see the sun and to
get comfortable for our long stay on the mountain.
Carlos Pauner
Translated from
Spanish by Jorge Rivera
Earlier:
DHAULAGIRI
REVISITED
Once again, our steps are in the direction of one of these
great Nepal mountains. Little by little we are gaining altitude by these green
valleys, filled with vegetation and humidity. We are on our way to Dhaulagiri
(8,167 m.), a big mountain that rejected me in 2006. That time, luck, so needed
in these expeditions, was scarce and we had to quit to our dreams very close to
the summit. Time has passed by, there have been other summits and again, the
turn has come for this white mountain of the Himalayas. We left from Pokhara a
few days ago, Javier, Marta and myself, towards Beni, over a wrecked road. From
there we started to walk and today, after walking for three days, we are now at
3,000 m. of altitude. We have walked over this large valley, in parts very
similar to others. We are 2 days away from our base camp, which will be located
at 4,700 m. of altitude and the news that come from above, as usual, are bad.
There is a lot of snow and porters can't reach our base camp. Tomorrow we will
go up to 3,500 m. to the Italian camp, where other groups are waiting with their
porters for the weather to improve. So far it doesn't look likely. It rains
every day and at this altitude, that means snow. It looks like the only
solution is for everybody to go by helicopter up to base camp, which is not very
funny for us. On one hand because of the cost and on the other because of the
risk involved. I still get goose bumps when I remember the accident we had
while we were leaving this same base camp in 2006. Luck smiled at us that time
and we were miraculously alive and safe, after hitting the ground while taking
off from our base camp. We will see tomorrow and if there is no choice, the
risk would have to be taken, like many others we had taken on our backs.
Anyway, this is not good. If the snow doesn't let us reach base camp, it is not
difficult to imagine how much snow is loaded on the mountain. Anyway, let us
wait. There is still a long way to go and we have just begun. Let's trust
everything goes nice in this expedition we are starting.
Carlos Pauner
Translated from Spanish by Jorge Rivera
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