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 Two climbers missing on Mt Dhaulagiri


 

With the many summits of Dhaulagiri also came rescues and in somewhat old but sad news two foreign climbers are missing on Mt Dhaulagiri, the families contacted us days ago  and asked that we keep the information confidential and we done so, but of course others printed the information

report 1: Rescuing day for Lithuanian expedition members (Expedition leader -  Saulius  Vilius)

Recent days on the Dhaukagiri valley were softly saying strange. I  would like to shortly tell about probably the hardest day for our expedition  - May the 5th. On this day two members of our expedition were on the second  camp, five - on the first camp and two were already down in the base camp. In the  evening the leader of Italian expedition enquired about 2 Argentinean climbers, which were missing in the third camp. Asked, what he wants from him, the answer was given "just to talk to them". We suggested to start rescuing expedition immediately, because Argentineans could have  serious threat to their lives. Rescuing works operation 1

From the early morning we started to look for missing Argentineans from first camp. Also two Lithuanian expedition members Ernestas Marksaitis  and Egidijus Mockus from the second camp were absorbing the valley towards  the third camp. After some time, three sharps of Italian expedition came up  to first camp. We served them hot tea. But despite that, the whole time  they were negotiating through radio the reward of 500 euros for successful rescuing operation. And just after 1 hour, when they get approval of  reward,
they moved up to the second camp. Besides that they agreed to go up  just up to second camp and not higher.

Before sherpes start climbing up, we noticed someone going down from  third camp to the second camp. Unfortunately that someone was moving on the  wrong track, on the extremely dangerous valley of snow. I immediately asked  my two  Lithuanian expedition members, which were in second camp, to climb up  and help.  I also got the phone number of missing Argentinean from base camp and tried to contact him by satellite phone. Just unfortunately  unsuccessfully.

Later with polish expedition member Filip, we decided to climb to  second camp and help Argentinean climber. The weather became very bad, and in  some places visibility was hardly 2 meters.

After 2 hours of climbing, we got the message from 2 Lithuanian  expedition members, which they reached Argentinean climber above the second camp. Unfortunately we have got also the message about bad health condition  of our own member of expedition. During 2 hours, two members of Lithuanian  expedition managed to throw the rope for Argentinean climber, and  persuaded  him to move into secure track, because in a shock condition Argentinean climber was moving on the deadly track.

After some time, deadly tired and frozen Argentineans was taken to  second camp and delivered to the sharps of Italian expedition, which from the  first  moment of welcome were informing him about the costs of bringing him  down.


Rescue works operation 2 After urgent climb down to the first camp, we prepared our expedition  member  for transportation to the base camp.

Polish expedition helped our member with the injection of medicine.  After giving extra oxygen, our sick expedition member was taken down to the  base  camp. Through difficult parts of way, the member was taken down with  the  help of ropes, because climber had no orientation. In Base camp we  again  received friendly help from Polish exhibition doctors. He was receiving injections each 2 hours during the whole night.


Rescue works operation 3

From the evening we ordered the rescue helicopter. The health  condition of the member of our expedition was critical. During the night his  condition  did not get better. He totally had no sense of orientation. After  tension  discussions on helicopter landing area and hot calls to Katmandu, our  very  sick member of exhibition was finally taken into our ordered  helicopter,  besides absolutely healthy Nepal citizen and inventor of exhibition,  which  earlier moved toward Katmandu.

More thoughts from other Lithuanians expedition members about mentioned  rescue operations and all about what is happening in Dahaulagri valleys  will  be in next reports from BC.

Lithuanian team leader Saulius Vilius Dhaulagiri BC

Note: Dario Bracali, an Argentine national is also missing.

Padam Ghale from the Himalayan Rescue Association Nepal (HRAN) is in Dhaulagiri base camp on a search and rescue mission ...

 

 
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