With the many summits of Dhaulagiri also came rescues and in
somewhat old but sad news two foreign climbers are missing on Mt Dhaulagiri,
the families contacted us days ago and asked that we keep the
information confidential and we done so, but of course others printed the
report 1: Rescuing day for Lithuanian expedition members
(Expedition leader - Saulius Vilius)
Recent days on the Dhaukagiri valley were softly saying strange. I would
like to shortly tell about probably the hardest day for our expedition -
May the 5th. On this day two members of our expedition were on the second
camp, five - on the first camp and two were already down in the base camp. In
the evening the leader of Italian expedition enquired about 2
Argentinean climbers, which were missing in the third camp. Asked, what he
wants from him, the answer was given "just to talk to them". We suggested to
start rescuing expedition immediately, because Argentineans could have
serious threat to their lives. Rescuing works operation 1
From the early morning we started to look for missing
Argentineans from first camp. Also two Lithuanian expedition members Ernestas
Marksaitis and Egidijus Mockus from the second camp were absorbing the
valley towards the third camp. After some time, three sharps of Italian
expedition came up to first camp. We served them hot tea. But despite
that, the whole time they were negotiating through radio the reward of
500 euros for successful rescuing operation. And just after 1 hour, when they
get approval of reward,
they moved up to the second camp. Besides that they agreed to go up just
up to second camp and not higher.
Before sherpes start climbing up, we noticed someone going down from
third camp to the second camp. Unfortunately that someone was moving on the
wrong track, on the extremely dangerous valley of snow. I immediately asked
my two Lithuanian expedition members, which were in second camp, to
climb up and help. I also got the phone number of missing
Argentinean from base camp and tried to contact him by satellite phone. Just
Later with polish expedition member Filip, we decided to climb to second
camp and help Argentinean climber. The weather became very bad, and in
some places visibility was hardly 2 meters.
After 2 hours of climbing, we got the message from 2 Lithuanian
expedition members, which they reached Argentinean climber above the second
camp. Unfortunately we have got also the message about bad health condition
of our own member of expedition. During 2 hours, two members of Lithuanian
expedition managed to throw the rope for Argentinean climber, and
persuaded him to move into secure track, because in a shock condition
Argentinean climber was moving on the deadly track.
After some time, deadly tired and frozen Argentineans was taken to
second camp and delivered to the sharps of Italian expedition, which from the
first moment of welcome were informing him about the costs of bringing
Rescue works operation 2 After urgent climb down to the first camp, we
prepared our expedition member for transportation to the base
Polish expedition helped our member with the injection of medicine.
After giving extra oxygen, our sick expedition member was taken down to the
base camp. Through difficult parts of way, the member was taken down
with the help of ropes, because climber had no orientation. In
Base camp we again received friendly help from Polish exhibition
doctors. He was receiving injections each 2 hours during the whole night.
Rescue works operation 3
From the evening we ordered the rescue helicopter. The health condition
of the member of our expedition was critical. During the night his
condition did not get better. He totally had no sense of orientation.
After tension discussions on helicopter landing area and hot calls
to Katmandu, our very sick member of exhibition was finally taken
into our ordered helicopter, besides absolutely healthy Nepal
citizen and inventor of exhibition, which earlier moved toward
More thoughts from other Lithuanians expedition members about mentioned
rescue operations and all about what is happening in Dahaulagri valleys
will be in next reports from BC.
Lithuanian team leader Saulius Vilius Dhaulagiri BC
Note: Dario Bracali, an Argentine national is also missing.
Padam Ghale from the Himalayan Rescue Association Nepal (HRAN)
is in Dhaulagiri base camp on a search and rescue mission ...
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