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  Annapurna 2008 Pictures!


Hello EverestNews.com,  We are safely back, despite the fact we did not make it to the very top ( we ended up at 7500m), it was one of the best climb !

Dodo and myself are heading back to Annapurna as early as mid March 09, we will be climbing from the south, alpine style of course. Martin

Update: Summary Oct 4 - 11 At the start...
Three and half days Martin, Miska, Dodo and porters marched in wet jungle. "It looks like nobody has been here since 1950", Martin wrote. Oct 8 they reached 3900m, the start of the way, and built base camp. Puja ceremony, trip to French BC, Chess Grand Prix Annapurna, lasting bad weather. Next days they planned climbing strategy, checked the icefall terrain and spent a night under the face.

Oct 12 - Sunday in BC
Martin wrote: "Walking down the icefall is much easier then up. Temba's Sunday lunch was great. Now coffee and sunbath. Tomorrow rest day."

Oct 14 - C1: Early morning they went up, reached C1 at 5200m. "Oxygen Spa! It´s hot! Dhaula, Fang and Nilgiri protect us against the wind".

Oct 15 - C2: Twelve hours of hard work to 6000m, C2 built late evening. Very difficult climbing, fixing impossible, "we survived a few serac barriers".

Oct 16 - 300m higher: 4 p.m. they reached 6300. Like yesterday, very difficult. Strong wind is seen on the ridge, but they are still in protected area. "Some serac barriers climbed, some ahead of us..."

Editorial Note: It appears the Swiss team with Jean Troillet are headed home without the summit...

Update: Petr Masek, Dodo Kopold and Martin Minarik met in Jomosom on Saturday morning, each of us with basic aklimatization already done. We are leaving and start hiking to base camp. We plan to start climbing around October 10.

Introduction of the expedition: Members : Dodo Kopold ( Slovak), Petr Masek and Martin Minarik ( Czechs)

Goal : alpine or light style Nortwest Face of Annapurna (most likely Gabarrow Spur)

Term : October 08

I leave with small group of trekkers on September 21 and Dodo and Petr will join us several days later. Initial aclimatization around Tilicho Lake, then off to Annapurna base camp for the climb. 

Martin

Annapurna aka Morshiadi ( 8091 meters high; 26545 feet) is located on the Annapurna massif in North-central Nepal. Annapurna, the tenth highest mountain in the world, was first climbed in 1950 by the French expedition Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal on June 3rd, 1950. The first 8000 meter peak climbed, today it is arguably the most feared. Annapurna is translated " Goddess of the Harvests" or "the Provider". 

The major peaks on the Annapurna range is Annapurna I (8091 meters high), Annapurna II (7937 meters), Annapurna III (7555 meters), Annapurna IV (7525 meters), Gangapurna (7455 meters) and Annapurna South (7219 meters).

Annapurna was the first 8000-meter peak ever climbed. The 1950 first ascent via the North Face was immortalized in the great Maurice Herzog's book "Annapurna". 20 years more it took for another team to succeed on the mountain. Chris Bonington's team 1970 ascent of the South Face of Annapurna was a landmark in the history of mountaineering. Two American women, Irene Miller and Vira Komarkova, have reached the summit via the North Face in October of 1978, making the first ascent by Americans! In May of 1988, American Steve Boyer, working with a large French expedition,  reached the summit, repeating the Bonington route on the South Face with a large French expedition. 

 

 

 

 

 

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