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  Martin Minarik Dhaulagiri 2008 : First 8000 meter ascent  of 2008 details


Picture: Martin Minarik

I left bc on April 19 at 2am and climbed directly to Camp 2 in 11 hours. I rested there the next day. On April 21 I left along with my ex climbing partners Radek and Zdenek and we spent the night on the same tiny ledge at 7000m where I spent the night previously with Valery and Nick.

In the morning of April 22, I left with only bivi gear without sleeping back and tent, none was previously above this altitude and I wanted to be as light as possible. I found a good shelter under the rock at 7250m. Cold and windy night but nice morning of April 23, I left late in only down jacket and bottle of water in its pocket. Hot and windless day turned windy late afternoon, after the traverse of the big couloir I found an excellent snow which led me into the narrow couloir and the ridge with the body of German climber exactly according to the description of the Spanish. 

In darkness I reached the summit, then returned by the body back to north slopes and reached my bivi site at 8am next morning. Less then 24 hours later I was in bc and only few hours later on my way to French pass. I reach Kathmandu on April 27. 

Now I am back in Czech Republic drinking the best beer on the world. 

It was one of the best trip to Himalaya in my life.

April 23, 2008 ( my summit day) is also the day of 8th birthday of my daughter Anna Martina. One can hardly realize the strength of motivation for me to reach the summit on this day as soon as I learned it would be possible given the window in the weather. 

Martin

Earlier: After exhausting ascent Martin Minarik reached the summit of Dhaulagiri on 4/23 at 20:00 (local time). It was a solo ascent from 7.000 m and nobody had carried him the equipment even thereunder. By available information it is probably the first ascent of Himalayan 8000m-season 2008. Now he is in the BC.

Earlier: Martin summits Dhaulagiri!!!! It what appears to be the first Summit of the season, Martin has done it again! Details coming soon...

Update: On 4/19 Martin goes up. It will be a success for a ascent of the summit. If it will be ok, he should be on 4/23 on the top. Till 25.4. is he without the satellite phone, there is no signal.

Earlier: Martin has successfully finished the acclimatization, ascend via west
route up to 7.000 m. Now he is in the BC with Temba sherpa and getting new energy by eating. Yesterday there was a small avalanche.

Update 4/8/2008: Under Dhaulagiri it was today (2004/04/07) clear weather and warm, the wind was not blowing, it was possible to sunbath. Ivan Vallejo and Carlos Pauer tomorrow pujua, Martin and Russians will take part as well. On Wednesday they are going to go to C1, weather should be OK.

Update : The weather at Dhaulagiri is very bad. It is snowing steadily. Martin and both Russians have to come back to BC from the saddleback at 1/4/2008. In the BC is 40 centimeters snow for the present, up in the saddleback in 6.000 meters there is waist-high snow.

Update 3/27/2008: Martin Minarik met 26/03/2008 at North Dhaulagiri BC two Russians, Nikolai and Valeri. They want to acclimatize in the west face. Tomorrow 28/03/2008 they are going to the saddle together.

Update: Martin Minarik reached base camp at 4.600 meters,  on the 22nd, under the Dhaulagiri north face. He going to relax.

Update: leave for Nepal on March 11 and plan to hike with couple trekkers from Beni around the West Face of Dhaulagiri to the north base camp. I would like to finish the climb within the month of April. Martin

Martin Minarik is back! For Spring 2008 it is Dhaulagiri Solo! He leaves on March 11. "I would like to climb solo and alpine style, currently looking for interesting line in north face but hard to guess as I have no idea how much ice there will be. " he tells EverestNews.com.

After his terrible frostbites and trauma from the death of his friend in 2006 on Lhotse. He returned there in 07 and summited Lhotse. "I want to thank everyone who was helping me to get back on my feet. " Martin told EverestNews.com

Martin is probably best known to EverestNews.com readers for his SOLO Summit of Cho Oyu in 2005, as the first summit of the season in 2005... See the Cho Oyu report below...and more

Update: Martin phoned from basecamp of Cho Oyu. He summited at 3 pm local time on the 16th. He was the only one on the mountain as the other group is not yet acclimatized. more coming soon!

Update 4/11/2005: The hell broke loose on the slopes of Cho Oyu and I think all dead bolsheviks blocked the mountain for their party, I do not know what else to say.

On April 7, 05 I left BC in the morning and made it easily to site of Camp 1, repacked and continued to the top of serac at 6900m.

I found the shelter even the wind started to blow. At about 2pm on April 8 (sun hits the slopes around 10am) I set off for approx. 7300m where people usually set up Camp 2. From there I was planning to walk to the top. The huge crevasses I was warned about are truly piece of cake - if you ever walked on Carbon glacier or the glaciers on Alaska.

I made it easily to 7300m and realized after about one hour of trying that something is wrong with my stove. I did not panic or anything, I even considered the option of leaving for the summit right away and climb the whole night with about half of my thermos left. Then I changed my plans and postponed the summit try for the next night, using the day for rest and fixing the problem with my stove.

The night was windy and in the morning, hell broke loose. I was confined inside my tent, without the chance of moving (up or down) and without a chance of making water. And the second night was nothing like the first one - second night was much worse. The sky cleared, it got much colder and the wind popped up to the scale unmeasured by sailors. In one minute intervals, wind was coming from all directions. All moisture turned into ice inside the tent and it was blown back to my face, there was no hiding spot. I could as well be outside it would make no difference.

Then hallucinations came, not because of altitude but because of complete lack of water. I changed my shirt and the fellow in this new shirt started to give my advice. Fortunately for me, most of this advise was sound. Towards the morning, I was licking the ice from the sides of my tent and I knew I had to get out right away because if I do not, I will not get the second chance.

I started right in the morning, the wind was even worse then in the night and the wind chill had to be 40 below or lower. The chance of frostbites were tremendous. My feet were cold inside the sleeping bag already. I managed well considering I did not drink for 48 hours. I was able to make the cave where I stored all the fuel, food etc. I quickly got to Camp 1 where I was just setting the stove. I found I am not alone on the mountain any longer. Friendly face of Ed Viesturs showed up and Ed gladly shared the water he had left. He and his two companions just carried the load to Camp 1.

These couple drinks made me walk back to BC. It is cold and very windy even here. Over night I retrieved the feel into my frostbitten fingertips and I am slowly getting power back into them ( when I came, I could not squeeze the lemon into my tea). I started to see without a problem again and it is nice to be able to go to pee after more then 24 hours.

There are couple more expeditions but I do not really mind. I am very well acclimatized and in a few days when the full strength is back and this "dead bolsheviks parade on the slopes of Cho Oyu" is over I will need only 2-3 days to make it to the top.

I know I will.

April 11, 05

Martin Minarik

Dispatches

 

 

 

 

 

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