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  Tunc and Dawa summits Mt. Baruntse alpine style, one push from the base camp!


This autumn season, i was able to climb Mt. Baruntse, a 7244 m. (or maybe 7129 m, as in official documents!), a snow and ice summit near Makalu and Everest, in alpine style, one push from the base camp! I did this climb in a 2-men team with Dawa Sherpa, a very strong 8 time Everest summiter and a record holder of north to south Mt. Everest crossing in 20 hours in 2006!

After a worrying waiting out period of 2 days in Katmandu airport to fly to Lukla (because of thick fog- and with a really nasty air crash in Lukla involving 18 tourists killed!), at last we were able to take a helicopter ride by 10th October. Following some organization, we set off from the Khumbu town of Lukla (2800 m) with our 25 porters by 12th October. Following the same magnificent trail to Mera Peak in Hingku valley (Chutanga-3400 m, Chettra-La pass 4500 m, Chettra- wa, 4100 m, Kothey 3500 m. Tagnag 4300 m, Mera -La pass 5400 m), we first climbed the popular Mera peak (6440 m) by its crowded north glacier route, a walk-up really, for acclimatisation purposes in 19th October. The ascent took us 5 hours from Mera-La pass. The same day we descended to Hongku valley to Kongme Dingma camp (4700 m) to rest. Continuing up the Tibet-like Hongku valley to Seto Pokari camp (5050 m), we arrived at the Baruntse base camp by 22nd October in very good and finely cold, settled weather. The base camp was in a lovely spot, by a glacier lake and with a full Himalayan view, at an altitude of 5450 m.
Following a full day of rest and organization, finally we climbed up to the West col of Baruntse (fixed lines, 45-50 degrees hard snow) and made our high camp in 6100 metres in the great glacier plateau of Baruntse, with a full view of Makalu. By the early hours of 25th October, Dawa and I moved up to the south west ridge of Baruntse, which is a snow and ice route. The route is not decidedly difficult, interspersed with steep steps and with only technical difficulties at around 6750 m-7000 m., necessitating a careful and precise climb.. Crossing sharp and steep summit ridges, we arrived at the summit before midday (around 11 am), with severe wind and cold as below 25 degrees C, with a majestic Himalayan view of Everest, Lhotse, Kang, Makalu, Cho Oyu and Shisha! Descending the route, we packed up our high camp and were at the base camp before sunset same day- completing the full ascent in less than 2 days from base camp to base camp, thus making a nice alpine style climb, which i enjoyed fully. So we closed our circuit by crossing the Amphu Laptsa pass (5840 m) back to Khumbu valley, to Dingboche, good old Namche and Phakding and were back in Lukla by the 3rd of November, only to wait for the fog to lift off to fly to Katmandu, with hordes of people waiting anxiously to fly! Finally, by 6th November, we are safe and well in Katmandu , already celebrated the expedition in Rum Doodle! Great Thanks to my friend Dawa Sherpa and all our trek crew! Tunc Findik
Millet One Sport Everest Boot  has made some minor changes by adding more Kevlar. USES Expeditions / High altitude / Mountaineering in extremely cold conditions / Isothermal to -75°F Gore-Tex® Top dry / Evazote Reinforcements with aramid threads. Avg. Weight: 5 lbs 13 oz Sizes: 5 - 14 DESCRIPTION Boot with semi-rigid shell and built-in Gore-Tex® gaiter reinforced by aramid threads, and removable inner slipper Automatic crampon attachment Non-compressive fastening Double zip, so easier to put on Microcellular midsole to increase insulation Removable inner slipper in aluminized alveolate Fiberglass and carbon footbed Cordura + Evazote upper Elasticated collar.

Expedition footwear for mountaineering in conditions of extreme cold.  NOTE US SIZES LISTED. See more here.







 

 

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